It’s that time of year again! Welcome to Hogwarts Week 2019!
This is the third (!!!) annual week of magic that I have hosted here on the Spin a Yarn Crochet blog. Last year during Hogwarts Week 2018, I released the patterns for Dumbly-wumbly, Snapey, and our big pal Hagrid. During Hogwarts Week 2017, I released my very first HP Pattern Collection which included patterns for Harry Potter, Hermione, Ron, Malfoy and Dobby!
This year for Hogwarts Week 2019, I’m so excited to release patterns for “Mad-Eye”, Professor McGonagall, and Lord Voldemort! I will be releasing these patterns throughout the week (starting now!) and rounding off the week with a yarny and HP-y giveaway! (The *best* combination, if you ask me!)
As you can probably gather, I am a big ol’ Potterhead. The crisp Autumn air and the cozy warmth of cups of tea and oversized sweaters that Fall brings makes me dream of Hogwarts and I can’t help but imagine all the students going off to another year of adventures. Which is why I love hosting this collection week each year!
Read my HP stats below and share yours in the comments!
- House: Ravenclaw
- Wand: Beech wood with a unicorn hair core, 14.5 inches
- Patronus: Pine marten
So, let’s not waste another minute! Jump on the Hogwart’s Express with me and let’s get going. I give you: the Hogwarts Ragdoll Collection 2019!
As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. Our favourite auror has 13 separate pieces. This pattern incorporates the tapestry (or intarsia) crochet technique and has some colour-work involved so please be sure to read the “Reading this Pattern” section!
His finished measurements are approximately 25cm/10″ from top to bottom.
Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)
If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE or through the “Shop It” button above! Also, if you simply can’t wait for all of the blog posts to be posted later this week, the patterns are already available in the shop to purchase separately or as a discounted collection!**
- 3.25mm hook (I use THESE hooks!);
- Patons Canadiana in Oatmeal for face (less than 50g)
- Bernat Premium Tweeds in Chocolate Tweed for shirt (small amounts);
- Red Heart Super Saver in Cafe Latte for coat (less than half of a 198g skein);
- Caron Simply Soft in Sunshine (less than half of a 170g skein);
- Bernat Super Value in White (very small amount);
- Bernat Super Value in Black for boots (small amounts);
- Loops & Threads Impeccable in Chocolate Brown for walking stick (small amounts);
- Brown embroidery thread (I used DMC 938 in Ultra Dark Coffee Brown for scars;
- Black crochet thread for mouth;
- 12mm safety eyes (one blue, one black);
- Tapestry needle.
Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:
Everything is worked in single crochet stitches, unless otherwise specified. So, in order to indicate the many colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “DBinc” means to work a sc increase in dark brown yarn. “DB10, LB7” means to work the next 10 sc in Dark Brown and the next 7 sc in Light Brown, and so on.
Due to the colour-changes, you will have several skeins or balls of yarn attached to your project at once. For the brown parts of the coat on the front panel (i.e. on either side of the dark brown stripe), I used two skeins of yarn, one for each side , and then again, two skeins of yellow, one for each side of the hair. You could also do this by taking one skein of yarn and dividing it into two smaller balls or bobbins. This cuts down significantly on having to carry your yarn.
The bonus part of the colour-changes in amigurumi is that you don’t have to worry about what the back of your panels look like! This is why I carry my yarn on the back instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go. It prevents any colours from bleeding through where they shouldn’t. As long as you always carry your yarn on the back of your panel, you won’t have to tie in any ends and you’ll have a beautiful smooth front with clear lines and colours. Please see the photos below to get an idea of where and how I carried my yarn.
When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.
*Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel!* This will be different depending on whether you’re working an odd or even row. So, for the front panel, whenever you are working an odd-numbered row (row 1, 3, 5, etc), the right side of your panel will be facing you. When you’re working an even-numbered row, the wrong side will be facing you.
This will be the opposite for the back panel. This will ensure that all the yarn ends are facing the inside when the panels are matched up. This is very important, since the panels are not symmetrical.
LB – Light Brown (Cafe Latte)
DB – Dark Brown (Chocolate Tweed)
Y – Yellow
O – Oatmeal
Terms and Stitches:
Ch – Chain
Slst – Slip stitch
MR – Magic Ring
Sc – Single Crochet (again, in rows with colour changes, sc stitches will be indicated with the Colour Legend letter instead of “sc”)
Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase
Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease
BLO – Back loops only
Front Body Panel:
You will make 1 panel using a 3.25mm hook. Start with Light Brown (Cafe Latte). The panel is worked from the bottom up. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row unless specified otherwise.
Row 1: Ch 21, starting in second ch from hook, LB7, DB6, LB7 (20 sts)
Row 2: LBinc in first 2 sts, LB5, DB6, LB5, LBinc in last 2 sts (24 sts)
Rows 3-4: LB9, DB6, LB9 (24 sts)
Row 5: LBdec, LB7, DB6, LB7, LBdec (22 sts)
Row 6: LB8, DB6, LB8 (22 sts)
Row 7: LBdec, LB6, DB6, LB6, LBdec (20 sts)
Rows 8-9: LB7, DB6, LB7 (20 sts)
Row 10: LBdec, LB5, DB6, LB5, LBdec (18 sts)
Rows 11-13: LB6, DB6, LB6 (18 sts)
Row 14: LBdec, LB4, DB6, LB4, LBdec (16 sts)
Rows 15-16: LB5, DB6, LB5 (16 sts)
Row 17: LBdec, LB3, DB6, LB3, LBdec (14 sts)
In the next row we’ll finish the coat and start the face and hair.
Row 18: LB1, O10, LB3 (14 sts), join yellow and ch 8
Row 19: Starting in second ch from hook, Y7 across chs, continue crocheting across previous row: Y1, O11, Oinc in last 2 sts (23 sts), ch 5 in yellow
Row 20: Starting in second ch from hook, Y3, O1, continue crocheting across previous row:O17, Y4, Yinc in last 2 sts (29 sts)
Row 21: Yinc twice, Y5, O20, Yinc twice (33 sts)
Row 22: Yinc twice, Y1, O21, Y9 (35 sts)
Row 23: Yinc, Y7, O23, Y4 (36 sts)
Row 24: Y4, O23, Y9 (36 sts)
Row 25: Y8, O25, Y3 (36 sts)
Roe 26: Y3, O25, Y8 (36 sts)
Row 27: Ydec, Y5, O27, Y2 (35 sts)
Row 28: Y2, O27, Y6 (35 sts)
Row 29: Ydec, Y5, O26, Y2 (34 sts)
Row 30: Y2, O25, Y7 (34 sts)
Row 31: Y7, O25, Y2 (34 sts)
Row 32: Yinc, Y1, O25, Y7 (35 sts)
Row 33: Y7, O24, Y4 (35 sts)
Row 34: Y5, O23, Y7 (35 sts)
Row 35: Y7, O22, Y4, Ydec (34 sts)
Row 36: Ydec, Y4, O21, Y7 (33 sts)
Row 37: Y7, O21, Y3, Ydec (32 sts)
Row 38: Y5, O20, Y5, Ydec (31 sts)
Row 39: Y7, O18, Y4, Ydec (30 sts)
Row 40: Y5, O18, Y7 (30 sts)
Row 41: Ydec, Y6, O9, Y2, O5, Y6 (29 sts)
Row 42: Ydec, Y4, O3, Y5, O7, Y6, Ydec (27 sts)
Row 43: Ydec, Y7, O3, Y15 (26 sts)
Row 44: Ydec, Y22, Ydec (24 sts)
Row 45: Ydec, Y20, Ydec (22 sts)
Row 46: Ydec twice, Y6, slst 2 in yellow, Y6, Ydec twice (18 sts)
Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.
Back Body Panel:
You will make 1 panel using a 3.25mm hook. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row, unless specified otherwise. The panel is worked from the bottom up.
Rows 1 to 17 are worked entirely in Light Brown.
Row 1: Ch 21, sc 20 (20 sts)
Row 2: Inc twice, sc 16, inc twice (24 sts)
Rows 3-4: Sc across (24 sts)
Row 5: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)
Row 6: Sc across (22 sts)
Row 7: Dec, sc 18, dec (20 sts)
Rows 8-9: Sc across (20 sts)
Row 10: Dec, sc 16, dec (18 sts)
Rows 11-13: Sc across (18 sts)
Row 14: Dec, sc 14, dec (16 sts)
Rows 15-16: Sc across (16 sts)
Row 17: Dec, sc 12, dec (14 sts)
In the next row, we will finish the coat and start the hair.
Row 18: Sc 14 (14 sts), in yellow, ch 8
All remaining rows are worked in yellow.
Row 19: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7 across chs, continue crocheting across previous row: Sc 12, inc twice (23 sts), ch 5
Row 20: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 4 across chs, continue crocheting across previous row: Sc 21, inc twice (29 sts)
Row 21: Inc twice, sc 25, inc twice (33 sts)
Row 22: Inc twice, sc 31 (35 sts)
Row 23: Inc, sc 34 (36 sts)
Rows 24-26: Sc across (36 sts)
Row 27: Dec, sc 34 (35 sts)
Row 28: Sc across (35 sts)
Row 29: Dec, sc 33 (34 sts)
Rows 30-31: Sc across (34 sts)
Row 32: Inc, sc 33 (35 sts)
Rows 33-34: Sc across (35 sts)
Row 35: Sc 33, dec (34 sts)
Row 36: Dec, sc 32 (33 sts)
Row 37: Sc 31, dec (32)
Row 38: Sc 30, dec (31 sts)
Row 39: Sc 29, dec (30 sts)
Row 40: Sc across (30 sts)
Row 41: Dec, sc 28 (29 sts)
Row 42: Dec, sc 25, dec (27 sts)
Row 43: Dec, sc 25 (26 sts)
Row 44: Dec, sc 22, dec (24 sts)
Row 45: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)
Row 46: Dec twice, sc 6, slst 2, sc 6, dec twice (18 sts)
Tie off. Set aside for assembly later.
Using black and a 3.25mm hook.
Row 1: Ch 6, sc 5 (5 sts)
Row 2: Sc 4, inc (6 sts)
Row 3: Sc 6 (6 sts)
You will crochet only part way across the next row before chaining and turning.
Row 4: Sc 4 (4 sts)
Rows 5-7: Sc across (4 sts)
Tie off. Repeat rows 1-2 for the second panel. Place both panels together, matching up all sides, and sc around the entire piece. (Sc, ch, Sc) into each corner of the top of the boot and at the heel. Stuff lightly when you’ve crocheted two-thirds of the way around. Slst to first st and tie off.
Repeat for second foot, but be sure that the second foot is facing the opposite direction than the first one when you crochet around, as shown in the picture below. Set aside for assembly later.
Start in Light Brown yarn, using a 3.25mm hook.
Row 1: Ch 5, sc 4 (4 sts)
Rows 2-7: Sc across (4 sts)
Switch to Oatmeal.
Row 8: In BLO, sc across (4 sts)
Rows 9-10: Sc across (4 sts)
Row 11: Dec twice (2 sts)
Repeat rows 1-11 for second panel. Tie off second panel. Put both panels together, matching up all sides and colours and sc around the entire piece, starting in Light Brown. Make sure the exposed loops of row 8 are on the front (facing you) as you crochet around. (Sc, ch, Sc) into each of the bottom corners of the sleeve. Switch to Oatmeal coloured-yarn when you get to the hand. Stuff when you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Switch back to Light Brown where appropriate. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off. Repeat for second arm. Set these aside for assembly later.
The eye is worked in joined rounds and then the strap is added in rows. Using 3.25mm, start with white yarn.
Rnd 1: Sc 4 into a magic ring, slst to beg st (4 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around, slst to beg st (8 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in first st, inc in next st], repeat [ ] around, slst to beg st (12 sts)
Switch to Light Brown.
Rnd 4: Inc in each st around, slst to beg st (24 sts)
Don’t tie off. Instead, ch 1 and begin working in rows for the strap:
Row 1: Sc 3 (3 sts)
Rows 2-11: Sc 3 (3 sts)
(I needed 11 rows for the strap to reach the edge of the hair. You may need slightly less or more, depending on your tension.)
Tie off. Counting counter-clockwise, skip 11 sts around the circle and join yarn in the 12th st to work the side strap.
Row 1: Sc 3 (3 sts)
Row 2: Sc 3 (3 sts)
Using a 3.25mm hook and Chocolate yarn. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.
Row 1: Ch 3, sc 2 (2 sts)
Rows 2-14: Sc 2 (2 sts)
Row 15: Inc twice (4 sts)
Rows 16-18: Sc 4 (4 sts)
Row 19: Dec twice (2 sts)
Tie off. Repeat rows 1-19 for second panel. Tie off second panel. Put both panels together, matching up all sides and sc around the entire piece. (Sc, ch, Sc) into each of the bottom corners. Use a chopstick to lightly stuff the cane as you crochet up the other side. Tie off. Set aside for assembly later.
Step 1: Face
First thing’s first! We need to attach and stitch on our facial features (mad eyes and all) to the front panel.
First, insert a 12mm BLUE eye into the white part of the eye piece, but do not attach the safety eye fastener yet. Then position the eye piece onto the front panel on the right side so that both straps reach the hairline on either side. Insert the post of the safety eye through the front panel as well and then attach the fastener.
Using Light Brown yarn, stitch around the strap starting at the long end, down the strap, around the round eye piece, around the other strap, and back to the beginning. Tie a knot in the yarn tails on the back of the panel to secure.
Next, insert a regular black 12mm eye for the other eye. Try to line it up with the blue eye as best you can.
Using black crochet thread, stitch on a mouth and an eyebrow.
To finish, I used dark brown embroidery thread to stitch scars onto May-Eye’s face in a couple of places. To do this, make one long stitch, then make three small stitches across the long one. Tie knots on the back to secure.
Step 2: Body, Arms, and Boots
Okay, here are all the pieces you should now have at this step.
Cut off four lengths of Light Brown yarn about 30 cms (12 inches) long each. Put them aside for later.
Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides and colours.
**Make sure the front of Mad-Eye is facing you as you crochet around the outside of the piece.**
Starting on the left side of Mad-Eye’s head, begin attaching the panels together by single crocheting around the outside of the panels starting in yellow.
Stop when you get to the bottom of the hair and leave this for now.
Now, with your tapestry needle and a length of yarn that you set aside earlier, place the first arm between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the arm, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body. I attached the arm at a bit of a downward angle, rather than straight out the side. Do whichever you prefer!
Continue single crocheting down the side of the body. You will need to switch to Light Brown yarn when you reach the coat.
When you get to the arm, simply sc in the stitches of the front panel only, since this part is already sewn shut. Once you are past the arm, continue single crocheting both panels together as normal.
Stop at the bottom of the coat.
Next, you will attach the first boot. With your tapestry needle and a length of yarn that you set aside earlier, place the boot between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the boot, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body. Place and sew the second boot on now as well. (I positioned the boots just on either side of the dark brown stripe.)
Now, picking up where you left off, continue single crocheting around the outside of the body and across the bottom. Remember, when you get to each boot, simply sc in the stitches of the front panel only.
Switch colours to dark brown and back again as you crochet across the bottom.
Continue crocheting up the other side of the robe.
Stuff the body.
Place and attach the second arm the same way you did for the first.
Continue crocheting up the body, switching colours back to yellow for the hair where appropriate.
Stuff the body and head.
Picking up where you left off, continue single crocheting up and around the head. Top up stuffing as you go as necessary (you’re going to need a lot!) Use the back of your crochet hook to push the stuffing down into all the corners and curves of the hair.
When you’re satisfied with the stuffing, close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.
Attach the walking cane (or leave it loose!).
Whew! You made it! Happy Hogwarts Week, folks!
Keep your eyes on this space for the patterns for McGonagall and He Who Must Not Be Named!
Keep in touch on the Spin a Yarn Crochet Facebook Page and feel free to post and share pictures of your finished items and/or links to your shops! Be sure to also follow us on Instagram and hashtag your creations using #spinayarncrochet!
The information and photos in this post are the sole copyrighted property of Spin a Yarn Crochet. You may not copy and paste or reproduce any part of the information contained herein electronically, verbally, written or otherwise, including translations.
You may make and sell products from our patterns but we ask that you please link back to this post.
This post may contain affiliate links, which means Spin a Yarn Crochet may receive some compensation if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. Clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, but it will help us keep this site up and running and keep the free content coming! Thank you for your support!