Welcome to Hogwarts Week 2018! This is the second annual week of magic that I have held here on the Spin a Yarn Crochet blog. Last year during the inaugural Hogwarts Week 2017, I released the Hogwarts Ragdoll Collection which included patterns for my Ragdoll Harry Potter, Hermione, Ron, Malfoy and Dobby amigurumi!
I talked about it last year during those posts (and I’ll say it again to anyone who will listen 😂)…I am a big ol’ Potterhead. Read my HP stats below and share yours in the comments!
- House: Ravenclaw
- Wand: Beech wood with a unicorn hair core, 14.5 inches
- Patronus: Pine marten
And, probably like many of you, there’s something about Fall that makes me dream of Hogwarts.
So, let’s not waste another minute! Jump on the Hogwart’s Express with me and let’s get going. I give you: the Hogwarts Ragdoll Collection 2018!
This year’s Collection includes Dumbledore, Snape (because Slytherins matter too), and Hagrid. Unlike last year, where the collection was based on one pattern template, each of this year’s three patterns are unique so as to best reflect the characters.
This post contains the pattern for Dumbledore. The patterns for Snape and Hagrid will be released in separate posts later this week.
As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. Our wise old wizard has 10 separate pieces. This pattern incorporates the tapestry (or intarsia) crochet technique and has a lot of colour-work involved.
His finished measurements are approximately 28cm/11″ from top to bottom.
Let’s get started! (Or Pin for later!)
Before we get into it, just a note on the yarn. I used a whole host of different brands and types of yarn for this project. While I usually try to keep to one type of yarn for a project for consistency, I was more concerned about getting the right colour palettes. So I apologize if some of the yarn I’ve used is not widely available where you are. That being said, all the yarn I used is worsted weight so feel free to substitute colours and brands at your leisure!
Here’s what I used:
**If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE. Also, if you simply can’t wait for all of the blog posts to be posted this week, the patterns are already available in the shop to purchase separately or as a discounted collection!**
- 3.5mm hook (I use THESE hooks!);
- Loops & Threads Impeccable in Petunia for robe (less than one 127.5g skein);
- Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Dusty Purple for hat, shoes and gown (less than one 100g skein);
- Loops & Threads Impeccable in Pale Gray for beard (less than one 127.5g skein);
- Loops & Threads Impeccable in True Grey for hair (less than one 127.5g skein);
- Patons Canadiana in Oatmeal (less than 50g)
- Black crochet thread for glasses (I use THIS kind!);
- 9mm safety eyes;
- Tapestry needle;
- Brightly coloured thread and beads to stitch around beard;
Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:
Everything is worked in single crochet stitches. So, in order to indicate the many colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “DGinc” means to work a sc increase in dark grey yarn. “LP10, DP7” means to work the next 10 sc in Light Purple and the next 7 sc in Dark Purple, and so on.
Due to the colour-changes, you will have several skeins or balls of yarn attached to your project at once. For the light purple parts of the robe on the front panel, I used two skeins of yarn, one for each side , and then again, two skeins of dark grey, one for each side of the hair. You could also do this by taking one skein of yarn and dividing it into two smaller balls or bobbins. This cuts down significantly on having to carry your yarn.
The bonus part of the colour-changes in amigurumi is that you don’t have to worry about what the back of your panels look like! This is why I carry my yarn on the back instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go. It prevents any colours from bleeding through where they shouldn’t. As long as you always carry your yarn on the back of your panel, you won’t have to tie in any ends and you’ll have a beautiful smooth front with clear lines and colours. Please see the photos below to get an idea of where and how I carried my yarn.
When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.
*Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel!* This will be different depending on whether you’re working an odd or even row. So, for the front panel, whenever you are working on an odd-numbered row, the right side of your panel will be facing you. When you’re working on an even-numbered row, the wrong side will be facing you (this will be the opposite for the back panel!). So, for example, when you are working on a row where the wrong side of the panel is facing you, you will have to make a conscious effort to pull your yarn toward you to the wrong side of the panel when dropping your yarn during a colour-change. This is because it will naturally drop to the side furthest away from you if you don’t.
LP – Light Purple (Petunia)
DP – Dark Purple (Dusty Purple)
LG – Light Grey (Pale Gray)
DG – Dark Grey (True Grey)
O – Oatmeal
Terms and Stitches:
Ch – Chain
Slst – Slip stitch
Sc – Single Crochet (again, in rows with colour changes, sc stitches will be indicated with the Colour Legend letter instead of the usual “sc”)
Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase
Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease
Hdc – Half double crochet
Dc – Double crochet
BLO – Back loops only
Front Body Panel:
You will make 1 panel using a 3.5mm hook. Start with Light Purple.
Note that I worked the colour changes of the robe starting right from the foundation chain. However, this can be finicky so feel free to crochet your foundation chain in all Light Purple if you prefer.
*Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row*
Row 1: Ch 10 in LP, ch 7 in DP, ch 11 in LP. Starting in first ch from hook, begin crocheting across your foundation chain: LP10, DP7, LP10 (27 sts)
Rows 2-5: LP10, DP7, LP10 (27 sts)
Row 6: LPdec, LP8, DP7, LP8, LPdec (25 sts)
Rows 7-9: LP9, DP7, LP9 (25 sts)
Row 10: LP9, DP3, LG1, DP3, LP9 (25 sts)
Row 11: LPdec, LP7, DP2, LG3, DP2, LP7, LPdec (23 sts)
Row 12: LP8, DP2, LG3, DP2, LP8 (23 sts)
Row 13-15: LP8, DP1, LG5, DP1, LP8 (23 sts)
Row 16: LP8, DP2, LG3, DP2, LP8 (23 sts)
Row 17: LPdec, LP6, DP2, LG3, DP2, LP6, LPdec (21 sts)
Row 18: LP7, LG7, LP7 (21 sts)
Row 19: LPdec, LP3, LG11, LP3, LPdec (19 sts)
Row 20: LP3, LG13, LP3 (19 sts)
Row 21: LP2, LG15, LP2 (19 sts)
Now we will start the hair.
Row 22: In DG ch 5, DG4 along chs, continue crocheting along previous row DG1, LG17, DG1 (23 sts)
Row 23: In DG ch 5, DGinc in first ch, DG3 along rem chs, continue along previous row LG19, DG3, DGinc (29 sts)
Row 24: DGinc, DG3, LG21, DG3, DGinc (31 sts)
Row 25-26: DG4, LG23, DG4 (31 sts)
Row 27: DG4, LG4, O3, LG9, O3, LG4, DG4 (31 sts)
Row 28: DGdec, DG2, LG2, O6, LG7, O6, LG2, DG2, DGdec (29 sts)
Row 29: DG3, LG1, O9, LG3, O9, LG1, DG3 (29 sts)
Row 30: DGinc, DG2, LG1, O21, LG1, DG2, DGinc (31 sts)
Row 31-32: DG4, LG1, O21, LG1, DG4 (31 sts)
Row 33: DGdec, DG2, LG1, O21, LG1, DG2, DGdec (29 sts)
Row 34: DG3, LG1, O21, LG1, DG3 (29 sts)
Row 35: DGdec, DG3, O19, DG3, DGdec (27 sts)
Row 36: DG4, O19, DG4 (27 sts)
Row 37: DGdec, DG2, O19, DG2, DGdec (25 sts)
Row 38: DG3, O19, DG3 (25 sts)
Row 39: DGdec, DG2, O17, DG2, DGdec (23 sts)
Row 40-42: DG3, O17, DG3 (23 sts)
The next row is a row of decorative slsts only to give the effect of the edge of Dumbledore’s hat.
Row 43: in DP, slst in each st across (23 sts)
Because Row 43 was decorative, you will not crochet Row 44 into the slsts of Row 43. Instead, crochet Row 44 into the sts of the previous regular row (Row 42).
Row 44: DP23 across (23 sts)
Rows 45-46: LP23 across (23 sts)
Rows 47-50: DP23 across (23 sts)
Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.
Back Body Panel:
You will make 1 panel using a 3.5mm hook. Start in Light Purple. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.
Rows 1 to 19 are worked entirely in Light Purple.
Row 1: In LP, Ch 28, sc across (27)
Rows 2-5: Sc across (27 sts)
Row 6: Dec, sc 23, dec (25 sts)
Rows 7-10: Sc across (25 sts)
Row 11: Dec, sc 21, dec (23 sts)
Rows 12-16: Sc across (23 sts)
Row 17: Dec, sc 19, dec (21 sts)
Row 18: Sc across (21 sts)
Row 19: Dec, sc 17, dec (19 sts)
Now we will start incorporating colour for the hair.
Row 20: LP1, DG4, LP3, DG3, LP3, DG4, LP1 (19 sts)
Row 21: DG6, LP1, DG5, LP1, DG6 (19 sts)
Rows 22-42 are completed entirely in Dark Grey.
Row 22: Ch 5, sc 4 along chs, continue to sc across (23 sts)
Row 23: Ch 5, inc in first ch, sc 3 along chs, sc 22 across previous row, inc in last st (29 sts)
Row 24: Inc, sc 27, inc (31 sts)
Rows 25-27: Sc across (31 sts)
Row 28: Dec, sc 27, dec (29 sts)
Row 29: Sc across (29 sts)
Row 30: Inc, sc 27, inc (31 sts)
Rows 31-32: Sc across (31 sts)
Row 33: Dec, sc 27, dec (29 sts)
Row 34: Sc across (29 sts)
Row 35: Dec, sc 25, dec (27 sts)
Row 36: Sc across (27 sts)
Row 37: Dec, sc 23, dec (25 sts)
Row 38: Sc across (25 sts)
Row 39: Dec, sc 21, dec (23 sts)
Rows 40-42: Sc across (23 sts)
Now we will start the hat.
Row 43: DP23 (23 sts)
Rows 44-45: LP23 (23 sts)
Rows 46-49: DP23 (23 sts)
Tie off. Set aside for assembly later.
Feet (make 4 panels in twos as explained below):
The feet are made entirely in dark purple using a 3.5mm hook.
Row 1: Ch 8, sc across (7 sts)
Row 2: Dec, hdc, dc, hdc, dec (5 sts)
Tie off. Repeat rows 1-2 for the second panel. Do not tie off second panel. Ch 1 and sc around the entire piece. (Sc, ch, Sc) into each corner of row 1. Stuff lightly when you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Slst to first st and tie off. Repeat for second foot. Set aside for assembly later.
Arms (make 4 panels in twos as explained below):
Start in Light Purple using a 3.5mm hook.
Row 1: Ch 5, sc across (4 sts)
Rows 2-6: Sc across (4 sts)
Row 7: Inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)
Row 8: Sc across (6 sts)
Row 9: Inc, sc 4, inc (8 sts)
Row 10: Sc across (8 sts)
Tie off. Join Oatmeal yarn into 2nd stitch of Row 10.
Row 11: BLO sc across (6 sts)
Row 12: Dec, sc 2, dec (4 sts)
Row 13: Dec twice (2 sts)
Tie off. Repeat rows 1-13 for second panel. Tie off second panel. Put both panels together, matching up all sides and colours. Chain 1 and sc around the entire piece, starting in Light Purple. (Sc, ch 2, Sc) into each of the peaks of the bell sleeve. (Sc, ch, sc) into each corner of row 1. Switch to Oatmeal coloured-yarn when you get to the hand. Stuff when you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Switch back to Light Purple where appropriate. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off. Repeat for second arm. Set these aside for assembly later.
Step 1: Face
First thing’s first! We need to attach and stitch on our facial features (and beard accessories) to the front panel.
Using black crochet thread, stitch the half-moon glasses on by first making two long stitches (spanning about 6 stitches each) across the lower part of the face (I did mine about 7 rows up of the Oatmeal colour). Then, stitch the half-moon shape for the lenses and for the nose bridge.
Insert 9mm eyes in the middle of each of the “lenses” of the glasses (right on top of the long stitches).
Next, stitch on a little mouth using black crochet thread.
Stitch on two eyebrows using Dark Grey yarn.
To finish, we will add some glittery beard accessories! Thread some beads onto a length of brightly coloured thread. Tie a knot to secure the beads. Stitch the other end of the thread around the narrowest part of the beard a few times and out a different stitch on the front of the panel. Thread beads onto this end of the thread and tie a knot to secure.
Step 2: Body, Arms, and Legs
Okay, here are all the pieces you should now have at this step. Also, here’s a look at the back of the panels…good luck getting this image out of your nightmares.
Cut off four lengths of Light Purple yarn about 30 cms (12 inches) long each. Put them aside for later.
Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides and colours.
**Make sure the front of Dumbly is facing you as you crochet around the outside of the piece.**
Starting on the left side of the head, begin attaching the panels together by chaining one and single crocheting around the outside of the panels in Dark Grey.
Stop when you get to the bottom of the hair. Pull up a long loop and leave this for now.
Now, with your tapestry needle and a length of yarn that you set aside earlier, place the first arm between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the arm, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body. I attached the arm at a bit of a downward angle, rather than straight out the side. Do whichever your prefer!
Continue single crocheting down the side of the body. You will need to switch to Light Purple yarn when you reach the robe.
When you get to the arm, simply sc in the stitches of the front panel only, since this part is already sewn shut. Once you are past the arm, continue single crocheting both panels together as normal.
(Sc, ch, sc) into the corner of the bottom of the robe. Stop here for now.
Next, you will attach the first foot. With your tapestry needle and a length of yarn that you set aside earlier, place the foot between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the foot, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body.
Now, picking up where you left off, continue single crocheting around the outside of the body and across the bottom. Remember, when you get to the foot, simply sc in the stitches of the front panel only.
Stop when you’ve crocheted about halfway across bottom of the body. Pull up a long loop and leave this for now. Now, with your tapestry needle and a length of yarn that you set aside earlier, place the second foot between the panels and attach the same way you did for the first.
(Sc, ch, sc) into the other bottom corner of the robe. Continue crocheting up the other side of the robe.
Place and attach the second arm the same way you did for the first.
Continue crocheting up the body, switching colours back to Dark Grey for the hair where appropriate. Switch to Dark Purple for the hat. Stop a few stitches from the top of the head.
Stuff the body.
Now, picking up where you left off, continue single crocheting around the hat. Top up stuffing as you go as necessary.
Close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.
Whew! You made it! Happy Hogwarts Week, folks!
Keep your eyes on this space for the patterns for Snape and Hagrid!
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