Ragdoll Harry Potter Free Crochet Pattern

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Ragdoll Harry Potter Free Crochet Pattern

Gather round, witches, wizards, muggles and nomaj folk alike! I have something a little different for you today.

Anyone who knows me IRL knows I am a big (read: huge, gigantic, enormous) Potterhead. My Hogwarts House is Ravenclaw. My wand is beech wood with a unicorn hair core, 14.5 inches. My patronus is the pine marten (Oh, you thought I was kidding? ūüėā). ¬†And there’s something about Fall that makes me dream of Hogwarts. With September comes the thought of the Hogwart’s Express chugging off into the hills, carrying eager students back to Hogwarts for a new year. The thought of cups of pumpkin juice and feasts and dimly lit castle hallways and warm mugs of mead by a cackling fire in the hearth of a House common room in October makes me warm and fuzzy inside! And so, I couldn’t avoid it any longer; I give you, the Hogwarts Ragdoll Collection.¬†

My Collection includes Harry, Ron, Hermione and Malfoy (because Slytherins matter too), and all are based on one basic pattern, which is highly customizable. Hermione’s pattern varies from the base pattern the most because some extra thought went into designing her hair. Since each character has their own unique characteristics, I will be doing a separate blog post for each over the next week or so!

Perhaps you’d like to include Luna, Neville or Ginny in your collection? All you’ll need are some slight changes in colours for each character and some adaptions to the hair and face. Or maybe you want to make your own miniature version of your witch or wizard self, or someone you know? The options are endless. Honestly, it was difficult for me to stop at just four characters, but I had to or else I’d be crocheting witches and wizards into next year! I can’t wait to see your versions with the House colours for Ravenclaw and Hufflepuff!

I’ve also created a little Dobby keychain pattern, which I will also make into a separate post (because Dobby is a free elf and he does what he wants).

Okay, kids, buckle in. This post is going to be longer than usual but I encourage you to read everything thoroughly before beginning, particularly if you don’t have a lot of experience with tapestry crochet.

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as our Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. The Boy Who Lived has 11 separate pieces. However, as mentioned, this pattern incorporates the tapestry (or intarsia) crochet technique and has a lot of colour-work involved. Also, please note that, while this pattern is not difficult, there is a fair amount of sewing, attaching and assembling involved.

His finished measurement is approximately 24cm/9.5″ from top to bottom.

Before we get into it, just a note on the yarn. I used a whole host of different brands and types of yarn for this project. Seriously, you won’t find any brand loyalty in this particular pattern. While I usually try to keep to one type of yarn for a project for consistency, I threw that philosophy to the wind for this one, because I was more concerned about getting the right colour palettes. So I apologize if some of the yarn I’ve used is not widely available where you are. That being said, all the yarn I used is worsted weight so feel free to substitute colours and brands at your leisure!

Let’s get started. Here’s what I used:

**If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE. Also, if you simply can’t wait for all of the blog posts to be posted this week, the patterns are already available in the shop to purchase!**

Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:

Everything is worked in single crochet stitches, except for Row 52 of the body panels, where the stitches will be specified. So, in order to indicate the many colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in any lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “Binc” means to work a sc increase in black yarn. “B2, G10” means to work the next 2 sc in Black and the next 10 sc in Grey, and so on.

Due to the colour-changes, you will have several skeins or balls of yarn attached to your project at once. For the black parts of the front body panel, I opted to use two skeins of black yarn, one for each side of the cloak, and then again for each side of the hair. You could also do this by taking one skein of black yarn and dividing it into two smaller balls. This cuts down significantly on having to carry your yarn.

The bonus part of the colour-changes in amigurumi is that you don’t have to worry about what the back of your panels look like! This is why I carry my yarn on the back instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go. It prevents any colours from bleeding through where they shouldn’t. As long as you always carry your yarn on the back of your panel, you won’t have to tie in any ends and you’ll have a beautiful smooth front with clear lines and colours. Please see the photos below to get an idea of where and how I carried my yarn.

When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.

*Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel!* This will be different depending on whether you’re working an odd or even row. So, for the front panel, whenever you are working on an odd-numbered row, the right side of your panel will be facing you. When you’re working on an even-numbered row, the wrong side will be facing you (this will be the opposite for the back panel!). So, for example, when you are working on a row where the wrong side of the panel is facing you, you will have to make a conscious effort to pull your yarn toward you to the wrong side of the panel when dropping your yarn during a colour-change. This is because it will naturally drop to the side furthest away from you if you don’t.

Here is the colour legend:

B – Black

G – Grey

W- White

R- Red (Burgundy)

Y – Yellow (Gold)

O – Oatmeal

Front Body (make 1 panel). Start with Black:

*Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row*

Pay careful attention to the colour changes!

Row 1: Ch 17, B3, G10, B3 (16 sts)

Row 2: Binc, B2, G10, B2, Binc (18 sts)

Row 3: Binc, B3, G10, B3, Binc (20 sts)

Row 4: B6, G8, B6 (20 sts)

Row 5: Binc, B5, G8, B5, Binc (22 sts)

Row 6: Binc, B6, G8, B6, Binc (24 sts)

Row 7: B8, G8, B8 (24 sts)

Row 8: Binc, B8, G6, B8, Binc (26 sts)

Rows 9-18: B10, G6, B10 (26 sts)

Row 19: Bdec, B8, G6, B8, Bdec (24 sts)

Row 20: B9, G2, W2, G2, B9 (24 sts)

Row 21: B9, G1, W4, G1, B9 (24 sts)

Row 22: Bdec, B6, G1, W6, G1, B6, Bdec (22 sts)

Row 23: B7, W8, B7 (22 sts)

Now we will start the scarf.

Row 24: R3, Y3, R4, Y3, R4, Y3, R2 (22 sts)

Row 25: Rdec, Y3, R4, Y3, R4, Y3, R1, Rdec (20 sts)

Row 26: Rdec, Y3, R4, Y3, R4, Y2, Ydec (18 sts)

Row 27: [R1, Y1] in same st, Y2, R4, Y3, R4, Y3, Rinc (20 sts)

Row 28: Rinc, R1, Y3, R4, Y3, R4, Y3, Rinc (22 sts)

Row 29: Rinc, R1, Y3, R4, Y3, R4, Y3, R2, Rinc (24 sts)

Row 30: Rinc, R3, Y3, R4, Y3, R4, Y3, R2, Rinc (26 sts)

Now we will start the face. Rows 31-35 are all worked in Oatmeal yarn.

Row 31: In BLO, sc across (26 sts)

Row 32: Inc, sc 24, inc (28 sts)

Row 33: Sc across (28 sts)

Row 34: Inc, sc 26, inc (30 sts)

Row 35: Inc, sc 28, inc (32 sts)

Now we will start incorporating colour-changes for the hair.

Row 36: [B1, O1] in same st, O30, [O1, B1] in same st (34 sts)

Row 37: B1, O32, B1 (34 sts)

Row 38: B2, O30, B2 (34 sts)

Rows 39-40: B3, O28, B3 (34 sts)

Row 41: B4, O26, B4 (34 sts)

Row 42: Bdec, B3, O25, B2, Bdec (32 sts)

Row 43: B4, O24, B4 (32 sts)

Row 44: Bdec, B3, O20, B1, O2, B2, Bdec (30 sts)

Row 45: B4, O1, B2, O4, B1, O13, B5 (30 sts)

Row 46: Bdec, B4, O11, B2, O3, B3, O1, B2, Bdec (28 sts)

Row 47: B4, O1, B4, O2, B3, O2, B1, O5, B6 (28 sts)

Row 48: Bdec, B5, O3, B2, O1, B3, O2, B4, O1, B3, Bdec (26 sts)

Row 49: Bdec, B3, O1, B5, O1, B3, O1, B2, O1, B5, Bdec (24 sts)

All the remaining rows are done in Black:

Row 50: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)

Row 51: Dec, sc 18, dec (20 sts)

Row 52: Dec, sc, hdc 3, dc 8, hdc 3, sc, dec (18 sts)

Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.

Back Body (make 1 panel) Start with Black:

Rows 1 to 23 are all worked in Black.

Row 1: Ch 17, sc along (16 sts)

Row 2: Inc, sc 14, inc (18 sts)

Row 3: Inc, sc 16, inc (20 sts)

Row 4: Sc across (20 sts)

Row 5: Inc, sc 18, inc (22 sts)

Row 6: Inc, sc 20, inc (24 sts)

Row 7: Sc across (24 sts)

Row 8: Inc, sc 22, inc (26 sts)

Rows 9-18: Sc across (26 sts)

Row 19: Dec, sc 22, dec (24 sts)

Rows 20-21: Sc across (24 sts)

Row 22: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)

Row 23: Sc across (22 sts)

Now we will start the scarf.

Row 24: R3, Y3, R4, Y3, R4, Y3, R2 (22 sts)

Row 25: Rdec, Y3, R4, Y3, R4, Y3, R1, Rdec (20 sts)

Row 26: Rdec, Y3, R4, Y3, R4, Y2, Ydec (18 sts)

Row 27: [R1, Y1] in first st, Y2, R4, Y3, R4, Y3, Rinc (20 sts)

Row 28: Rinc, R1, Y3, R4, Y3, R4, Y3, Rinc (22 sts)

Row 29: Rinc, R1, Y3, R4, Y3, R4, Y3, R2, Rinc (24 sts)

Row 30: Rinc, R3, Y3, R4, Y3, R4, Y3, R2, Rinc (26 sts)

Now we will start the neck and hair:

Row 31: O26 (26 sts)

Row 32: Oinc, O8, B8, O8, Oinc (28 sts)

Row 33: O7, B14, O7 (28 sts)

Row 34: Oinc, O2, B22, O2, Oinc (30 sts)

Row 35: Oinc, B28, Oinc (32 sts)

The remaining rows are completed in all Black.

Row 36: Inc, sc 30, inc (34 sts)

Rows 37-41: Sc across (34 sts)

Row 42: Dec, sc 30, dec (32 sts)

Row 43: Sc across (32 sts)

Row 44: Dec, sc 28, dec (30 sts)

Row 45: Sc across (30 sts)

Row 46: Dec, sc 26, dec (28 sts)

Row 47: Sc across (28 sts)

Row 48: Dec, sc 24, dec (26 sts)

Row 49: Dec, sc 22, dec (24 sts)

Row 50: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)

Row 51: Dec, sc 18, dec (20 sts)

Row 52: Dec, sc, hdc 3, dc 8, hdc 3, sc, dec (18 sts)

Tie off.

Feet (make 4 panels in twos as explained below) in Black:

Row 1: Ch 6, sc across (5 sts)

Rows 2-5: Sc acros (5 sts)

Row 6: Dec, sc, dec (3 sts)

Row 7: Dec, sc 1 (2 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-7 for the second panel. Do not tie off second panel. Ch 1 and sc around the entire piece. (Sc, ch, Sc) into each corner of row 1. Stuff when you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Slst to first st and tie off. Repeat for second foot. Set aside for assembly later.

Arms (make 4 panels in twos as explained below). Start in Black:

Row 1: Ch 5, sc across (4 sts)

Rows 2-7: Sc across (4 sts)

Switch to Oatmeal yarn.

Rows 8-10: Sc across (4 sts)

Row 11: Dec twice (2 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-11 for second panel. Do not tie off second panel. Put both panels together, matching up all sides and colours. Chain 1 and sc around the entire piece. (Sc, ch, Sc) into each corner of row 1. Stuff when you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off. Repeat for second arm. ¬†Set these aside for assembly later.

Scarf (make 1 panel). Start in Burgundy:

Row 1: Ch 7, sc across (6 sts)

Rows 2-3: Sc across (6 sts)

Switch to Gold.

Rows 4-5: Sc across (6 sts)

Switch to Burgundy.

Rows 6-8: Sc across (6 sts)

Switch to Gold.

Rows 9-10: Sc across (6 sts)

Switch to Burgundy.

Rows 11-13: Sc across (6 sts)

Tie off. Weave in ends on the back of the scarf. Add fringe by cutting a length of Burgundy yarn about 3 or 4 inches long, fold in half and weave both ends into a stitch on the end of the scarf with your tapestry needle. Then weave both ends through the loop to create a knot. Repeat for remaining stitches, alternating Burgundy and Gold fringe.

Assembly:

Step 1: Scar and Glasses

First thing’s first! We need to attach all of our facial features to the front panel.

The glasses are done by using the surface slip-stitch technique with black crochet thread and a 1.5mm hook. You will hold the black crochet thread underneath your panel while holding your hook above the panel. Insert your hook through the panel, yarn over, and pull through. Now, insert your hook into the next spot on your panel where you want your next stitch to go, yarn over, and pull through the loop on your hook. Continue doing this in a circle until you have one lens of the glasses completed.

To finish, you will pull up a small loop and cut your thread underneath the panel, leaving a few inches. Now, with your tapestry needle, feed the end up through the panel and through the loop. Pull tight. Weave the end back down through the panel and out the back. Tie in a knot with the beginning thread tail to secure.

Repeat the above for the second lens and then for the nose bridge.

Next, stitch on Harry’s scar using brown embroidery thread. I did this by stitching a diagonal line, then a horizontal line, then another diagonal line.

Finally, using Burgundy and Gold embroidery thread, stitch around the V-neck of Harry’s sweater to give the illusion of a collar. I simply made three long stitches on each side (two burgundy with gold in between) and then tied knots in the back to secure.

Step 2: Body, Arms, Legs, and Scarf

Okay, here are all the pieces you should now have at this step. And also here’s a look at the back of the panels!

Also, please note that I took those pictures before I stitched on the “V” of the sweater and his scar! Make sure you have those steps done now as well!

Cut off four lengths of Black yarn and one length of Burgundy about 30 cms (12 inches) long each. Put them aside for later.

Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides and colours.

**Make sure the front of Harry is facing you as you crochet around the outside of the piece.**

Starting on the left side of the head, begin attaching the panels together by chaining one and single crocheting around the outside of the panels in Black.

Harry Potter

Stop before you get to the scarf. Pull up a long loop and leave this for now.

Now, with your tapestry needle and a length of Black yarn that you set aside earlier, place the first arm between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the arm, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body.

Continue single crocheting down the side of the body. You will need to switch to Burgundy yarn when you reach the scarf and switch back to Black after the scarf.

When you get to the arm, simply sc in the stitches of the front panel only, since this part is already sewn shut. Once you are past the arm, continue single crocheting both panels together as normal.

Stop before you reach the bottom of the body. Pull up a long loop.

Next, you will attach the first foot. With your tapestry needle and a length of Black yarn that you set aside earlier, place the foot between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the foot, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body.

Now, picking up where you left off, continue single crocheting around the outside of the body and across the bottom. Remember, when you get to the foot, simply sc in the stitches of the front panel only.

Stop when you’ve crocheted across two-thirds of the bottom of the body. Pull up a long loop and leave this for now. Now, with your tapestry needle and a length of Black yarn that you set aside earlier, place the second foot between the panels and attach the same way you did for the first.

Continue crocheting around. Place the second arm the same way you did for the first.

Next, attach the scarf the same way you did for the arms and legs using the length of Burgundy yarn you set aside earlier.

Continue crocheting up the body, switching colours where appropriate and stop a few stitches from the top of the head.

Stuff the body.

Now, picking up where you left off, continue single crocheting around the head. Top up stuffing as you go as necessary.

Close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

Lastly, finish off by attaching a wand, a broomstick, a snitch, or anything else to Harry’s hand and you’re done! (Maybe these will be my next pattern project!)

Whew! You made it! Time for a fun game of Quidditch! Accio Firebolt!

As I mentioned above, keep your eyes on this space for the blog posts for Ron, Hermione, Malfoy and Dobby!

 

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19 thoughts on “Ragdoll Harry Potter Free Crochet Pattern

  1. I love these dolls! They are super cute!
    But could you help me with other hairstyles? I would like to crochet two guys from youtube but I have no idea on how to crochet their hairsytle. I would appreciate it a lot if you could help me out! ‚̧ (of course I will give your dolls a try, I love Harry Potter!)

    1. Hi Jenny!
      Hrm, that sounds tricky! I would recommend just giving it a go! Drafting your own pattern can be a lot of trial and error but it’s also a lot of fun! You could also try browsing Youtube for tutorials on different hairstyles for crochet dolls and see if any of those would work for you. It all depends on the type of doll you’re making and the look you’re going for. ūüôā

  2. I’ve just finished stitching on the glasses and about to do the scar…when I noticed my Harry’s hair is on the opposite side of your photos. Has anyone else had this issue? I was sure that I kept everything on the “right” side of my work. Everything else lines up except the locks of hair.

    1. Hi Amanda,
      That’s not a problem! Either side of the panel can act as the front! All that really matters is that you were consistent in carrying your yarn on one side only. It’s totally up to you and will simply add to the uniqueness of your Harry ūüėä

      1. Thank you! I went with it and put him together anyway. Just had to squeeze the scar in all that hair somewhere! LOVE the pattern and I plan on making the set!

    2. I realized that at the first row of the swoop and worked backwards in the pattern row. It came out on the correct side of his face.

      1. I’ve made a second one since then and it came out right. I must have missed a row somewhere or done one backwards. Oh well he still looks cool lol

  3. My daughter in law is a BIG Harry Potter fan. Although I haven’t done Amigurumi crocheting ever, I have been crocheting for a long time. The directions are very clear, and detailed. I’m sure I won’t have any trouble. I can’t wait to start on these. Thank you for these really cute patterns. I ordered the whole set.

    1. Thank you so much, Anna! I bet your daughter-in-law will absolutely love them, mostly because they were made by you!

  4. Hi Jillian,
    I’m ready to assemble but the only tricky part that I wasn’t clear on what the scarf section where you start the row with two different colors in one stitch. Can you give more instruction on that? It ended up being the same starting color for the first two “loops” on mine and looks little messy and not like your picture. Thank you for the wonderful pattern! LOVED making Harry and can’t wait to make all of them!

    1. Hi, Anne!
      I’m so glad you’re enjoying the patterns!

      I think what you’re probably referring to is row 26 and 27? Those rows read:
      “Row 26: Rdec, Y3, R4, Y3, R4, Y2, Ydec (18 sts)
      Row 27: [R1, Y1] in same st, Y2, R4, Y3, R4, Y3, Rinc (20 sts)”

      So you are ending row 26 with a yellow decrease, but you do not complete the stitch. Instead, you will join your red and finish that stitch with red yarn. Then ch 1 and make your first st of Row 27 in red but, again, do not complete the stitch fully. Instead, yarn over and finish the st with yellow. Then make another st in yellow in the same st (the first st of the row) to complete the increase. Then you will continue on with the remainder of the row, “Y2, R4…” etc.

      Clear as mud? Lol, I hope that helps a bit! Please let me know if I can clarify anything further. And I’d love to see a picture of your finished ragdolls! Feel free to share a pic over on the fb page or tag me on Instagram!

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