Welcome back to Hogwarts Week 2018! This is the second post in this year’s Hogwarts Pattern Collection: Severus Snape! You can check out the first pattern for Dumbledore here, which was released earlier this week. Or check out last year’s Collection patterns for Harry, Hermione, Ron, Malfoy and Dobby.

This year’s Collection includes Albus Dumbledore, Severus Snape (because Always), and Rubeus Hagrid.

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. Our snippy Snape has 10 separate pieces. This pattern incorporates the tapestry (or intarsia) crochet technique and has a fair amount of colour-work involved.

His finished measurements are approximately 26cm/10″ from top to bottom.

Let’s get started! (Or Pin for later!)

Materials:

Let’s get started. Here’s what I used:

**If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE. Also, if you simply can’t wait for all of the blog posts to be posted this week, the patterns are already available in the shop to purchase separately or as a discounted collection!**

• 3.5mm hook (I use THESE hooks!);
• Red Heart Super Saver in Black (150g);
• Bernat Super Value in White (small amount);
• Loops & Threads Impeccable in True Grey (less than 50g);
• Patons Canadiana in Oatmeal (less than 50g);
• Black crochet thread for eyes (I use THIS kind!);
• 6mm safety eyes;
• Two small black buttons;
• Stuffing;
• Tapestry needle.

Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:

Everything is worked in single crochet stitches. So, in order to indicate the colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in lines with colour changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “Bdec” means to work a sc decrease in black yarn. “B10, G7” means to work the next 10 sc in black and the next 7 sc in grey, and so on (see colour legend below).

Due to the colour changes, you will have several skeins or balls of yarn attached to your project at once. For the black parts of the robe on the front panel, I used two skeins of yarn, one for each side, and then again, two skeins for each side of the hair. You could also do this by taking one skein of yarn and dividing it into two smaller balls or bobbins. This cuts down significantly on having to carry your yarn.

The bonus part of the colour-changes in amigurumi is that you don’t have to worry about what the back of your panels look like! This is why I carry my yarn on the back instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go. It prevents any colours from bleeding through where they shouldn’t. As long as you always carry your yarn on the back of your panel, you won’t have to tie in any ends and you’ll have a beautiful smooth front with clear lines and colours. Please see the photos below to get an idea of where and how I carried my yarn.

When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.

*Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel!* This will be different depending on whether you’re working an odd or even row. So, for the front panel, whenever you are working on an odd-numbered row, the right side of your panel will be facing you. When you’re working on an even-numbered row, the wrong side will be facing you (this will be the opposite for the back panel!). So, for example, when you are working on a row where the wrong side of the panel is facing you, you will have to make a conscious effort to pull your yarn toward you to the wrong side of the panel when dropping your yarn during a colour-change. This is because it will naturally drop to the side furthest away from you if you don’t.

Colour legend:

B – Black

G – Grey (True Grey)

W – White

O – Oatmeal

Terms and Stitches:

Ch – Chain

Slst – Slip stitch

Sc – Single Crochet (again, in rows with colour changes, sc stitches will be indicated with the Colour Legend letter instead of the usual “sc”)

Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease

Hdc – Half double crochet

Dc – Double crochet

Front Body Panel:

You will make 1 panel using a 3.5mm hook. Start with Black.

Note that I worked the colour changes of the robe starting right from the foundation chain. However, this can be finicky so feel free to crochet your foundation chain in all Black if you prefer.

*Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row*

Row 1: In B ch 10, in G ch 7, in B ch 11. Starting in first ch from hook, B10, G7, B10 (27 sts)

Rows 2-5: B10, G7, B10 (27 sts)

Row 6: Bdec, B8, G7, B8, Bdec (25 sts)

Rows 7-10: B9, G7, B9 (25 sts)

Row 11: Bdec, B7, G7, B7, Bdec (23 sts)

Rows 12-16: B8, G7, B8 (23 sts)

Row 17: Bdec, B6, G7, B6, Bdec (21 sts)

Row 18: B7, G7, B7 (21 sts)

Row 19: Bdec, B5, G3, W1, G3, B5, Bdec (19 sts)

Row 20: B6, G2, W3, G2, B6 (19 sts)

Row 21: B6, G1, W5, G1, B6 (19 sts)

Row 22: Bdec, B4, W7, B4, Bdec (17 sts)

Now we will start the hair.

Row 23: In B ch 6, B5 along chs, continue crocheting across B5, W1, O5, W1, B5 (22 sts)

Row 24: In B ch 6, B5 along chs, continue crocheting across B 5, O7, B10 (27 sts)

Row 25: B9, O9, B9 (27 sts)

Row 26: B7, O13, B7 (27 sts)

Row 27: B6, O15, B6 (27 sts)

Rows 28-33: B5, O17, B5 (27 sts)

Rows 34-39: B6, O15, B6 (27 sts)

Row 40: B7, O13, B7 (27 sts)

Row 41: Bdec, B5, O13, B5, Bdec (25 sts)

Row 42: B8, O9, B8 (25 sts)

Row 43: Bdec, B10, O1, B10, Bdec (23 sts)

Row 44: B11, O1, B11 (23 sts)

Row 45: Bdec, B9, O1, B9, Bdec (21 sts)

Row 46: Bdec, B8, O1, B8, Bdec (19 sts)

Row 47: Bdec twice, B5, O1, B5, Bdec twice (15 sts).

Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.

Back Body Panel:

You will make 1 panel using a 3.5mm hook. The back panel is crocheted entirely in black.

Row 1: Ch 28, sc across (27 sts)

Rows 2-5: Sc across (27 sts)

Row 6: Dec, sc 23, dec (25 sts)

Rows 7-10: Sc across (23 sts)

Row 11: Dec, sc 21, dec (23 sts)

Rows 12-16: Sc across (23 sts)

Row 17: Dec, sc 19, dec (21 sts)

Row 18: Sc across (21 sts)

Row 19: Dec, sc 17, dec (19 sts)

Rows 20-21: Sc across (19 sts)

Row 22: Dec, sc 15, dec (17 sts)

Row 23: Ch 6, sc 5 along chs, sc 17 across (22 sts)

Row 24: Ch 6, sc 5 along chs, sc 22 across (27 sts)

Rows 25-40: Sc across (27 sts)

Row 41: Dec, sc 23, dec (25 sts)

Row 42: Sc across (25 sts)

Row 43: Dec, sc 21, dec (23 sts)

Row 44: Sc across (23 sts)

Row 45: Dec, sc 19, dec (21 sts)

Row 46: Dec, sc 17, dec (19 sts)

Row 47: Dec twice, sc 11, dec twice (15 sts)

Tie off. Set aside for assembly later.

Feet (make 4 panels in twos as explained below):

The feet are made entirely in black using a 3.5mm hook.

Row 1: Ch 8, sc across (7 sts)

Row 2: Dec, hdc, dc, hdc, dec (5 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-2 for the second panel. Do not tie off second panel. Ch 1 and sc around the entire piece. (Sc, ch, Sc) into each corner of row 1. Stuff lightly when you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Slst to first st and tie off. Repeat for second foot. Set aside for assembly later.

Arms (make 4 panels in twos as explained below):

Start in Black using a 3.5mm hook.

Row 1: Ch 5, sc across (4 sts)

Rows 2-6: Sc across (4 sts)

Row 7: Inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)

Row 8: Sc across (6 sts)

Row 9: Inc, sc 4, inc (8 sts)

Row 10: Sc across (8 sts)

Tie off. Join Oatmeal yarn into 2nd stitch of Row 10.

Row 11: BLO sc across (6 sts)

Row 12: Dec, sc 2, dec (4 sts)

Row 13: Dec twice (2 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-13 for second panel. Tie off second panel. Put both panels together, matching up all sides and colours. Chain 1 and sc around the entire piece, starting in Black. (Sc, ch 2, Sc) into each of the peaks of the bell sleeve. (Sc, ch, sc) into each corner of row 1. Switch to Oatmeal coloured-yarn when you get to the hand. Stuff when you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Switch back to Black where appropriate. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off. Repeat for second arm.  Set these aside for assembly later.

Assembly:

Step 1: Face and Accessories

First thing’s first! We need to attach our facial features and accessories to the front panel.

Snape is pretty easy because all we have to do for his face are two little indignant eyes and a totally unimpressed mouth to give him his distinctive glower.

With black crochet thread, stitch two straight stitches in the middle of his face and insert 6mm eyes on the right-hand end of each of these stitches.

Stitch on a frown.

Using black crochet thread, outline the “V” neck of his vest and sew on two buttons.

Step 2: Body, Arms, and Legs

Okay, here are all the pieces you should now have at this step. And also here’s a look at the back of the panels! (Note that I got ahead of myself here and took the photos before I had attached the buttons on his vest).

Cut off four lengths of Black yarn about 30 cms (12 inches) long each. Put them aside for later.

Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides and colours.

**Make sure the front of Snapey is facing you as you crochet around the outside of the piece.**

Starting on the left side of the head, begin attaching the panels together by chaining one and single crocheting around the outside of the panels in Black.

Stop when you get to the bottom of the hair. Pull up a long loop and leave this for now.

Now, with your tapestry needle and a length of yarn that you set aside earlier, place the first arm between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the arm, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body. I attached the arm at a bit of a downward angle, rather than straight out the side. Do whichever your prefer!

Continue single crocheting down the side of the body.

When you get to the arm, simply sc in the stitches of the front panel only, since this part is already sewn shut. Once you are past the arm, continue single crocheting both panels together as normal.

(Sc, ch, sc) into the corner of the bottom of the robe. Stop here for now.

Next, you will attach the first foot. With your tapestry needle and a length of yarn that you set aside earlier, place the foot between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the foot, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body.

Now, picking up where you left off, continue single crocheting around the outside of the body and across the bottom. Remember, when you get to the foot, simply sc in the stitches of the front panel only.

Switch to Dark Grey where appropriate. Stop when you’ve crocheted about halfway across bottom of the body. Pull up a long loop and leave this for now. Now, with your tapestry needle and a length of yarn that you set aside earlier, place the second foot between the panels and attach the same way you did for the first.

Switch back to Black where appropriate. (Sc, ch, sc) into the other bottom corner of the robe. Continue crocheting up the other side of the robe.

Place and attach the second arm the same way you did for the first.

Continue crocheting up the body. Stop a few stitches from the top of the head.

Stuff the body.

Now, picking up where you left off, continue single crocheting around the head. Top up stuffing as you go as necessary.

Close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.

That’s it! Happy Hogwarts Week, folks!

Keep your eyes on this space for the pattern for Hagrid!

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