Ragdoll Hagrid Free Crochet Pattern

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Ragdoll Hagrid Free Crochet Pattern

Welcome back to Hogwarts Week 2018! This is the third and final (!) post in this year’s Hogwarts Pattern Collection. And, without a doubt, this pattern is the biggest one yet! Check out the first two patterns for Dumbledore and Snape which were released earlier this week. Or check out last year’s patterns for Harry, Hermione, Ron, Malfoy and Dobby.

This year’s Collection includes Albus Dumbledore, Severus Snape and, of course, our favourite, pink-umbrella-wielding, lovable, half-giant Rubeus Hagrid.

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as our Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. Hagrid has 6 separate pieces.

This pattern incorporates the tapestry (or intarsia) crochet technique and has a fair amount of colour-work involved.

*AND* you may have noticed that, true to form, our Ragdoll Hagrid has a lot of hair going on. This is a new technique that I have not used in my patterns before (it is a version of the Chain Loop Stitch) so if you are a regular maker/reader of the blog, you might (and by ‘might’ I mean ‘definitely’) want to re-read some of the pattern/stitch instructions, instead of just skimming over them like you usually do (don’t pretend I’m not talking to you, skimmer). If this is the first pattern of mine that you have ever made, then you’re in luck because you will be oblivious to how much more finicky this pattern is in comparison to all my others (Lolol, just kidding! You got this.)

His finished measurements are approximately 35cm/14″ from top to bottom and 30cm/12″ across!

Let’s get started! (Or Pin for later!)

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Materials:

Before we get into it, just a note on the yarn. I used varying brands and types of yarn for this project. While I usually try to keep to one type of yarn for a project for consistency, I was more concerned about getting the right colour palettes. So I apologize if some of the yarn I’ve used is not widely available where you are.

This is particularly so with respect to the yarn I used for Hagrid’s cloak. I have had this interesting faux-suede type yarn in my stash for a very long time without ever coming up with a good project to use it on, but I knew it would be perfect to give Hagrid’s big brown coat a leather-look with awesome texture and colour. I tried to capture it in the pics below.

Here’s the most hilarious part: this yarn is Dollarama brand (a dollar store chain in Canada). It was literally $1.25 CDN for this 70g skein and it doesn’t even have a weight listed. It definitely did not feel like a worsted weight to me so I decided to double it up for this pattern. That being said, any worsted weight yarn would make a great substitute.

Let’s get started. Here’s what I used:

**If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE. Also, the patterns are available in the shop to purchase separately or as a discounted collection!**

Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:

Everything is worked either in single crochet stitches or the chain loop stitch. So, in order to indicate the colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in lines with colour changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “LBdec” means to work a sc decrease in Light Brown yarn. “LB12, DB18” means to work the next 12 sc in Light Brown and the next 18 sc in Dark Brown, and so on (see the colour legend below). Be sure to also take a look at the example chain loop row below before getting started!

Due to the colour changes, you will have several skeins or balls of yarn attached to your project at once. For the coat on the front panel, I used two skeins of yarn, one for each side, and then again, two skeins for each side of the hair. You could also do this by taking one skein of yarn and dividing it into two smaller balls or bobbins. This cuts down significantly on having to carry your yarn.

The bonus part of the colour-changes in amigurumi is that you don’t have to worry about what the back of your panels look like! This is why I carry my yarn on the back instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go. It prevents any colours from bleeding through where they shouldn’t. As long as you always carry your yarn on the back of your panel, you won’t have to tie in any ends and you’ll have a beautiful smooth front with clear lines and colours. Please see the photos below to get an idea of where and how I carried my yarn.

When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.

*Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel!* This will be different depending on whether you’re working an odd or even row. So, for the front panel, whenever you are working on an odd-numbered row, the right side of your panel will be facing you. When you’re working on an even-numbered row, the wrong side will be facing you (this will be the opposite for the back panel!). So, for example, when you are working on a row where the wrong side of the panel is facing you, you will have to make a conscious effort to pull your yarn toward you to the wrong side of the panel when dropping your yarn during a colour-change. This is because it will naturally drop to the side furthest away from you if you don’t.

Colour legend:

LB – Light Brown (brown used for the overcoat)

DB – Dark Brown (Cafe Latte used for the vest)

B – Black

Y – Yellow (Mustard)

R – Red (Burgundy)

HB – Hair Brown (Chocolate used for hair)

BB – Beard Brown (Chocolate Tweed used for beard)

O – Oatmeal

Terms and Stitches:

Ch – Chain

Slst – Slip stitch

Sc – Single Crochet (again, in rows with colour changes, sc stitches will be indicated with the Colour Legend letter instead of the usual “sc”)

Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase.

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease.

Chlp – Chain Loop Stitch. To complete one chlp st: sc into the next stitch, ch 8. That’s it! I will use the colour legend abbreviations to indicate what colour the chain loop sts should be done in.

Example Chain Loop Row:

For example, you will see something like this: HB chlp 7, HB1, BB chlp 7, BB1.

This means that you will start in your “Hair Brown” coloured yarn (Impeccable Chocolate Brown) and do 7 chlps (i.e. 7 sets of [sc, ch 8]) then you will make one sc in the next stitch in Hair Brown. Then, in “Beard Brown” (Bernat Premium Chocolate Tweed), do 7 more chlps (i.e. 7 more sets of [sc, ch 8]) and finish the row with one sc stitch in Beard Brown in the last stitch.

When working on a row following a chain loop row (i.e. when the back of the panel is facing you) you will crochet into the sc sts only. You will not be crocheting into the chains at all. (Like, not ever. Leave those chains alone, friends; they just want to go about their business. They don’t want any trouble.)

*Also*, you will need to move your working yarn between the loops for each stitch to ensure that the chain loops remain on the front of the panel (see below pictures or the video for more details!).

From the front:

From the back:

Front Body Panel:

You will make 1 panel using a 3.5mm hook. Start with Black.

*Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row*

Boots (make 2):

Row 1: Ch 21, sc across (20 sts)

Row 2: Sc 19, inc (21 sts)

Row 3: Inc, sc 20 (22 sts)

Rows 4-5: Sc across (22 sts)

Row 6: Sc 20, dec (21 sts)

Row 7: Sc across (21 sts)

Row 8: Sc 19, dec (20 sts)

Row 9: Dec, sc 18 (19 sts)

Row 10: Sc 15, dec twice (17 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-10 for second boot but do not tie off second boot. Continue to Row 11 below.

Row 11: Dec, sc 30, dec (32 sts)

Row 12: Sc across (32 sts)

Now we will start the overcoat. Switch to Light Brown yarn.

Row 13: In LB, ch 6, LB5 along chs, continue crocheting across row: LB9, DB14, LB9 (37 sts)

Row 14: In LB, ch 6, LB5 along chs, continue crocheting across row: LB8, DB16, LB13 (42 sts)

Row 15: LB13, DB16, LB13 (42 sts)

Row 16: LB12, DB18, LB12 (42 sts)

Row 17: LB12, B7, Y5, B6, LB12 (42 sts)

Row 18: LB11, B7, Y1, B12, LB11 (42 sts)

Row 19: LB11, B10, Y4, B6, LB11 (42 sts)

Row 20: LB11, B7, Y1, B12, LB11 (42 sts)

Row 21: LB11, B8, Y5, B7, LB11 (42 sts)

Row 22: LB11, DB20, LB11 (42 sts)

Row 23: LB11, DB20, LB11 (42 sts)

Row 24: LBdec, LB9, DB20, LB9, LBdec (40 sts)

Row 25: LB10, DB20, LB10 (40 sts)

Row 26: LB11, DB18, LB11 (40 sts)

Row 27: LBdec, LB9, DB8, R2, DB8, LB9, LBdec (38 sts)

Row 28: LB11, DB6, R4, DB6, LB11 (38 sts)

Row 29: LB11, DB5, R6, DB5, LB11 (38 sts)

Row 30: LBdec, LB10, DB3, R8, DB3, LB10, LBdec (36 sts)

Now we will start the chain loops stitches for the beard.

Row 31: LB6, in BB chlp 23, BB1, LB6 (36 sts)

Now we will start the hair.

Row 32: In HB ch 9, HB8 along chs, continue crocheting across row: HB1, LB3, BB28, LB3, HB1 (44 sts)

Row 33: In HB ch 9, HB chlp 8 along chs, continue crocheting across row: HB1, LB2, BB chlp 29, BB1, LB2, HB chlp 8, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 34: HB9, LB1, BB32, LB1, HB9 (52 sts)

Row 35: HB chlp 9, HB1, BB chlp 31, BB1, HB chlp 9, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 36: HB10, BB32, HB10 (52 sts)

Row 37: HB chlp 8, HB1, BB chlp 33, BB1, HB chlp 8, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 38: HB9, BB34, HB9 (52 sts)

Row 39: HB chlp 8, HB1, BB chlp 33, BB1, HB chlp 8, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 40: HB9, BB13, O8, BB13, HB9 (52 sts)

Row 41: HB chlp 7, HB1, BB chlp 7, BB1, O4, BB chlp 3, BB1, O4, BB chlp 3, BB1, O4, BB chlp 7, BB1, HB chlp 7, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 42: HB8, BB6, O7, BB10, O7, BB6, HB8 (52 sts)

Row 43: HB chlp 7, HB1, BB chlp 3, BB1, O11, BB chlp 5, BB1, O11, BB chlp 3, BB1, HB chlp 7, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 44: HB8, BB3, O30, BB3, HB8 (52 sts)

Row 45: HB chlp 6, HB1, BB chlp 2, BB1, O32, BB chlp 2, BB1, HB chlp 6, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 46: HB7, BB3, O32, BB3, HB7 (52 sts)

Row 47: HB chlp 6, HB1, BB chlp 1, BB1, O34, BB chlp 1, BB1, HB chlp 6, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 48: HB7, BB2, O34, BB2, HB7 (52 sts)

Row 49: HB chlp 6, HB1, BB chlp 1, BB1, O34, BB chlp 1, BB1, HB chlp 6, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 50: HBdec, HB5, BB2, O34, BB2, HB5, HBdec (50 sts)

Row 51: HB chlp 5, HB1, BB1, O36, BB1, Hb chlp 5, HB1 (50 sts)

Row 52: HB6, BB1, O36, BB1, HB6 (50 sts)

Row 53: HB chlp 5, HB1, BB1, O36, BB1, HB chlp 5, HB1 (50 sts)

Row 54: HB6, BB1, O36, BB1, HB6 (50 sts)

Row 55: HB chlp 5, HB1, BB1, O36, BB1, HB chlp 5, HB1 (50 sts)

Row 56: HBdec, HB7, O10, HB12, O10, HB7, HBdec (48 sts)

Row 57: HB chlp 8, HB1, O6, HB chlp 17, HB1, O6, HB chlp 8, HB1 (48 sts)

Row 58: HB10, O3, HB22, O3, HB10 (48 sts)

Row 59: HB chlp 10, HB1, O1, HB chlp 23, HB1, O1, HB chlp 10, HB1 (48 sts)

Row 60: HB48 (48 sts)

Row 61: [HBdec, ch 8], HB chlp 44, HBdec (46 sts)

Row 62: HB46 (46 sts)

Row 63: [HBdec, ch 8], HB chlp 42, HBdec (44 sts)

Row 64: HBdec, HB40, HBdec (42 sts)

Now we will start the first side of the hair. You will crochet only part way across the row before chaining 1 and turning.

Row 65: [HBdec, ch 8] twice, HB chlp 14, HB1 (17 sts)

Row 66: HBdec, HB11, HBdec twice (14 sts)

Row 67: [HBdec, ch 8] twice, HB chlp 8, HBdec (11 sts)

Row 68: HB11 (11 sts)

Tie off. Position your panel so that the right side is facing you. Reattach your yarn in the 5th stitch (i.e. skip 4 sts from where you turned in row 65) and continue with rows 69-72 below:

Row 69: HB chlp 15, [HBdec, ch 8], HBdec (17 sts)

Row 70: HBdec twice, HB11, HBdec (14 sts)

Row 71: [HBdec, ch 8], HB chlp 8, [HBdec, ch 8], HBdec (11 sts)

Row 72: HB11

Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.

Back Body Panel:

You will make 1 panel using a 3.5mm hook. Start in black.

Boots (make 2):

Row 1: Ch 21, sc across (20 sts)

Row 2: Sc 19, inc (21 sts)

Row 3: Inc, sc 20 (22 sts)

Rows 4-5: Sc across (22 sts)

Row 6: Sc 20, dec (21 sts)

Row 7: Sc across (21 sts)

Row 8: Sc 19, dec (20 sts)

Row 9: Dec, sc 18 (19 sts)

Row 10: Sc 15, dec twice (17 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-10 for second boot but do not tie off second boot. Continue to Row 11 below.

Row 11: Dec, sc 30, dec (32 sts)

Row 12: Sc across (32 sts)

Now we will start the coat.

Row 13: In LB ch 6, LB5 along chs, LB32 (37 sts)

Row 14: In LB, ch 6, LB5 along chs, LB37 (42 sts)

Rows 15-23: LB42 (42 sts)

Row 24: LBdec, LB38, LBdec (40 sts)

Rows 25-26: LB40 (40 sts)

Row 27: LBdec, LB36, LBdec (38 sts)

Rows 28-29: LB38 (38 sts)

Row 30: LBdec, LB34, LBdec (36 sts)

Row 31: LB36 (36 sts)

Now we will start the hair.

Row 32: In HB ch 9, HB chlp 8 along chs, HB chlp 35, HB1 (44 sts)

Row 33: In HB ch 9, HB8 along chs, HB 44 (52 sts)

Row 34: HB chlp 51, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 35: HB52 (52 sts)

Row 36: HB chlp 51, HB (52 sts)

Row 37: HB52 (52 sts)

Row 38: HB chlp 51, HB (52 sts)

Row 39: HB52 (52 sts)

Row 40: HB chlp 51, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 41: HB52 (52 sts)

Row 42: HB chlp 51, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 43: HB52 (52 sts)

Row 44: HB chlp 51, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 45: HB52 (52 sts)

Row 46: HB chlp 51, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 47: HB52 (52 sts)

Row 48: HB chlp 51, HB1 (52 sts)

Row 49: HB52 (52 sts)

Row 50: [HBdec, ch 8], HB chlp 48, HBdec (50 sts)

Row 51: HB50 (50 sts)

Row 52: HB chlp 49, HB1 (50 sts)

Row 53: HB50 (50 sts)

Row 54: HB chlp 49, HB1 (50 sts)

Row 55: HB50 (50 sts)

Row 56: [HBdec, ch 8], HB chlp 46, HBdec (48 sts)

Row 57: HB48 (48 sts)

Row 58: HB chlp 47, HB1 (48 sts)

Row 59: HB48 (48 sts)

Row 60: HB chlp 47, HB1 (48 sts)

Row 61: HBdec, HB44, HBdec (46 sts)

Row 62: HB chlp 45, HB1 (46 sts)

Row 63: HBdec, HB42, HBdec (44 sts)

Row 64: [HBdec, ch 8], HB chlp 40, HBdec (42 sts)

Now we will start the first part of the hair. You will be crocheting only part way across the row before ch 1 and turning.

Row 65: HBdec twice, HB 15 (17 sts)

Row 66: [HBdec, ch 8], HB chlp 11, [HBdec, ch 8], HBdec (14 sts)

Row 67: HBdec twice, HB8, HBdec (11 sts)

Row 68: HB11 (no chlps since its the last row)

Tie off. Turn your panel so that the wrong side is facing you. Reattach your yarn in the 5th st. Continue to row 69 below:

Row 69: HB15m HBdec (17 sts)

Row 70: [HBdec, ch 8] twice, HB chlp 11, HBdec (14 sts)

Row 71: HBdec, HB8, HBdec twice (11 sts)

Row 72: HB11 (11 sts)

Tie off. Set aside for assembly later.

Arms (make 4 panels in twos as explained below):

Start in Light Brown using a 3.5mm hook.

Row 1: Ch 8, sc across (7 sts)

Rows 2-10: Sc across (7 sts)

Switch to Oatmeal coloured yarn.

Row 11: BLO sc 7 (7 sts)

Rows 12-13: Sc 7 (7 sts)

Row 14: Dec, sc 3, dec (5 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-14 for second panel. Do not tie off second panel. Put both panels together, matching up all sides and colours. Chain 1 and sc around the entire piece, switching colours where appropriate.

(Sc, ch, Sc) into each corner of row 1. Stuff when you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off. Repeat for second arm.  Set these aside for assembly later.

Assembly:

Step 1: Eyes and Eyebrows

First thing’s first! We need to sew on our facial features to the front panel.

With black crochet thread, simply stitch on two happy eyes in the middle of his face. Add some laugh lines if you wish!

Stitch on eyebrows in Chocolate yarn.

Stitch on a little mouth underneath the moustache.

Step 2: Body and Arms

Okay, here are all the pieces you should now have at this step. Also here’s a look at the back of the panels!

Cut off two lengths of your Light Brown yarn about 30 cms (12 inches) long each. Put them aside for later.

Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides and colours.

**Make sure the front of Hagrid is facing you as you crochet around the outside.**

Starting on the top of Hagrid’s head on the left side (see photos above), begin attaching the panels together by chaining one and single crocheting around the outside of the panels in Beard Brown (Chocolate).

Stop when you get to the bottom of his hair. Pull up a long loop and leave this for now.

Now, with your tapestry needle and a length of yarn that you set aside earlier, place the first arm between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the arm, and the bottom panel. I attached the arm at a bit of a downward angle, rather than out to the side. Go with whichever you prefer! When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body.

Continue single crocheting down the side of the body. When you get to the arm, simply sc in the stitches of the front panel only, since this part is already sewn shut. Once you are past the arm, continue single crocheting both panels together as normal.

(Sc, ch, sc) in the bottom corners of his coat.

Switch to black when you reach the boots. Continue crocheting down and around each boot. (Sc, ch, sc) in the heels of each boot.

Switch back to Light Brown when you reach his coat. Stop after a couple of stitches in Light Brown. Stuff the boots now. 

Next, place and attach the second arm the same way you did for the first.

Continue crocheting up the body, switching colours when you reach the hair. Stop a few stitches from the top of the head.

Stuff the body (You’re going to need a lot!).

Now, picking up where you left off, continue single crocheting around the head. Top up stuffing as you go as necessary.

Close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.

Whew! You made it!

Thanks so much for joining me for Hogwarts Week 2018! It was a blast and I can’t wait for next year!

 

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2 thoughts on “Ragdoll Hagrid Free Crochet Pattern

  1. I just love your ideas. I have made Harry and Hermione, and they both turned out wonderful. I ‘m very excited about the new patterns.
    Thank you so much for sharing them!

  2. Can you make a tutorial for all of your harry potter ones i like them but i dont understand written patterns

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