Welcome back! This is the final pattern being released this year for Hogwarts Week 2019! (But don’t go anywhere because there’s a giveaway coming later today!)
Today I am bringing you the pattern for Lord Voldemort (for all you baddie-lovers out there! I see you, Slytherins.) Check out the first two posts from earlier this week for “Mad-Eye” Moody and Professor McGonagall, or check out the collections from previous years: Dumbledore, Snape, Hagrid, Harry, Hermione, Ron, Malfoy and Dobby!
As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. He Who Must Not Be Named has 8 separate pieces (including Nagini!) This pattern incorporates the tapestry (or intarsia) crochet technique and has some colour-work involved so please be sure to read the “Reading this Pattern” section!
His finished measurements are approximately 25cm/10″ from top to bottom.
Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)
If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE or through the “Shop It” button above! Also, the patterns are available in the shop to purchase as a discounted collection!**
Materials:
- 3.25mm hook (I use THESE hooks!);
- Bernat Super Value in Black
(less than half of a 198g skein);
- Red Heart Super Saver in Grey Heather
for robe (small amounts);
- Red Heart Super Saver Light Grey
for skin (less than half of a 198g skein);
- Red Heart Soft in Guacamole
for Nagini (small amounts);
- Black crochet thread for mouth and nose;
- 12mm red eyes (or blue depending on whether you’re going for a movie depiction or book depiction!);
- 6mm safety eyes for Nagini;
- Stuffing;
- Tapestry needle
.
(less than half of a 198g skein);
for robe (small amounts);
for skin (less than half of a 198g skein);
for Nagini (small amounts);
.Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:
Everything is worked in single crochet stitches, unless otherwise specified. So, in order to indicate the many colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “Binc” means to work a sc increase in black yarn. “B10, G7” means to work the next 10 sc in black and the next 7 sc in grey. “Bdec, LG8, Bdec” means to work a regular sc decrease in black, then work the next 8 stitches in light grey, then work another sc decrease in black, and so on.
Due to the colour-changes, you will have several skeins or balls of yarn attached to your project at once. For the robe parts on the front panel (i.e. on either side of the black stripe), I used two skeins of yarn, one for each side. You could also do this by taking one skein of yarn and dividing it into two smaller balls or bobbins. This cuts down significantly on having to carry your yarn.
The bonus part of the colour-changes in amigurumi is that you don’t have to worry about what the back of your panels look like! This is why I carry my yarn on the back instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go. It prevents any colours from bleeding through where they shouldn’t. As long as you always carry your yarn on the back of your panel, you won’t have to tie in any ends and you’ll have a beautiful smooth front with clear lines and colours. Please see the photos below to get an idea of where and how I carried my yarn.
When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.
*Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel!* This will be different depending on whether you’re working an odd or even row. So, for the front panel, whenever you are working an odd-numbered row (row 1, 3, 5, etc), the right side of your panel will be facing you. When you’re working an even-numbered row, the wrong side will be facing you.
This will be the opposite for the back panel. This will ensure that all the yarn ends are facing the inside when the panels are matched up.
Colour legend:
B – Black
G – Grey (Red Heart Grey Heather – the darker of the two greys)
LG – Light Grey (Red Heart Light Grey)
Terms and Stitches:
Ch – Chain
Slst – Slip stitch
Sc – Single Crochet (again, in rows with colour changes, sc stitches will be indicated with the Colour Legend letter instead of “sc”)
Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase
Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease
Dc – Double crochet
BLO – Back loops only
Pattern
Front Body Panel:
You will make 1 panel using a 3.25mm hook. Start with black. The panel is worked from the bottom up. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row unless specified otherwise.
Row 1: Ch 31, starting in second ch from hook, B13, G4, B13 (30 sts)
Row 2: B13, G4, B13 (30 sts)
Row 3: Bdec, B11, G4, B11, Bdec (28 sts)
Rows 4-5: B12, G4, B12 (28 sts)
Row 6: Bdec, B10, G4, B10, Bdec (26 sts)
Rows 7-8: B11, G4, B11 (26 sts)
Row 9: Bdec, B9, G4, B9, Bdec (24 sts)
Rows 10-11: B10, G4, B10 (24 sts)
Row 12: Bdec, B8, G4, B8, Bdec (22 sts)
Rows 13-14: B9, G4, B9 (22 sts)
Row 15: Bdec, B7, G4, B7, Bdec (20 sts)
Rows 16-17: B8, G4, B8 (20 sts)
Row 18: Bdec, B6, G4, B6, Bdec (18 sts)
Rows 19-21: B7, G4, B7 (18 sts)
Row 22: Bdec, B5, G4, B5, Bdec (16 sts)
Rows 23-25: B6, G4, B6 (16 sts)
Row 26: Bdec, B4, G4, B4, Bdec (14 sts)
Row 27: B5, G4, B5 (14 sts)
Row 28: Bdec, B3, G4, B3, Bdec (12 sts)
In the next row, we will start incorporating Light Grey yarn for the face.
Row 29: B3, LG6, B3 (12 sts)
Row 30: Bdec, LG8, Bdec (10 sts)
All of the remaining rows of the front panel are worked in Light Grey.
Row 31: Sc across (10 sts)
Row 32: Inc twice, sc 6, inc twice (14 sts)
Row 33: Inc, sc 12, inc (16 sts)
Row 34: Inc, sc 14, inc (18 sts)
Row 35: Sc across (18 sts)
Row 36: Inc, sc 16, inc (20 sts)
Row 37: Inc, sc 18, inc (22 sts)
Row 38: Inc, sc 20, inc (24 sts)
Rows 39-44: Sc across (24 sts)
Row 45: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)
Rows 46-47: Sc across (22 sts)
Row 48: Dec, sc 18, dec (20 sts)
Row 49: Dec, sc 16, dec (18 sts)
Row 50: Dec, sc 14, dec (16 sts)
Row 51: Sc across (16 sts)
Row 52: Dec twice, sc 8, dec twice (12 sts)
Row 53: Dec twice, sc 4, dec twice (8 sts)
Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.
Back Body Panel:
You will make 1 panel using a 3.25mm hook. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row, unless specified otherwise. The panel is worked from the bottom up.
Row 1: Ch 31, starting in second ch from hook, sc across (30 sts)
Row 2: Sc across (30 sts)
Row 3: Dec, sc 26, dec (28 sts)
Rows 4-5: Sc across (28 sts)
Row 6: Dec, sc 24, dec (26 sts)
Rows 7-8: Sc across (26 sts)
Row 9: Dec, sc 22, dec (24 sts)
Rows 10-11: Sc across (24 sts)
Row 12: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)
Rows 13-14: Sc across (22 sts)
Row 15: Dec, sc 18, dec (20 sts)
Rows 16-17: Sc across (20 sts)
Row 18: Dec, sc 16, dec (18 sts)
Rows 19-21: Sc across (18 sts)
Row 22: Dec, sc 14, dec (16 sts)
Rows 23-25: Sc across (16 sts)
Row 26: Dec, sc 12, dec (14 sts)
Row 27: Sc across (14 sts)
Row 28: Dec, sc 10, dec (12 sts)
Row 29: Sc across (12 sts)
Row 30: Dec, sc 8, dec (10 sts)
All remaining rows are worked in Light Grey.
Row 31: Sc across (10 sts)
Row 32: Inc twice, sc 6, inc twice (14)
Row 33: Inc, sc 12, inc (16 sts)
Row 34: Inc, sc 14, inc (18 sts)
Row 35: Sc across (18 sts)
Row 36: Inc, sc 16, inc (20 sts)
Row 37: Inc, sc 18, inc (22 sts)
Row 38: Inc, sc 20, inc (24 sts)
Rows 39-44: Sc across (24 sts)
Row 45: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)
Rows 46-47: Sc across (22 sts)
Row 48: Dec, sc 18, dec (20 sts)
Row 49: Dec, sc 16, dec (18 sts)
Row 50: Dec, sc 14, dec (16 sts)
Row 51: Sc across (16 sts)
Row 52: Dec twice, sc 8, dec twice (12 sts)
Row 53: Dec twice, sc 4, dec twice (8 sts)
Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.
Arms:
Start in black yarn, using a 3.25mm hook.
Row 1: Ch 5, sc 4 (4 sts)
Rows 2-6: Sc across (4 sts)
Row 7: Inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)
Row 8: Sc across (6 sts)
Row 9: Inc, sc 4, inc (8 sts)
Row 10: Sc across (8 sts)
Tie off. Join Light Grey yarn in the second stitch of row 10.
Row 11: In BLO, sc 6 (6 sts)
Row 12: Dec, sc 2, dec (4 sts)
Row 13: Dec twice (2 sts)
Tie off.
Repeat rows 1-13 for second panel. Tie off second panel. Put both panels together, matching up all sides and colours and sc around the entire piece, starting in black. Make sure the exposed loops of row 11 are on the front (facing you) as you crochet around. (Sc, ch, Sc) into each of the bottom corners of the arm and (Sc, ch 2, sc) into the peaks of the bell sleeve. Switch to Light Grey yarn when you get to the hand. Stuff when you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Switch back to black where appropriate. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off. Repeat for second arm. Set these aside for assembly later.
Nagini
Using 3.25mm hook and green yarn. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row unless specified otherwise. The panels are worked from the bottom up.
Body:
Row 1: Ch 4, in second ch from hook, sc across (3 sts)
Row 2: Inc three times (6 sts)
Row 3: Inc, sc 3, inc twice (9 sts)
Place a stitch marker in the first st of row 3. In the next row, you will be crocheting only part way across the previous row before chaining and turning.
Row 4: Sc 4 (4 sts)
Row 5: Dec, sc 1, inc (4 sts)
Row 6: Sc 2, dec (3 sts)
Rows 7-13: Sc across (3 sts)
Row 14: Dec, inc (3 sts)
Row 15: Sc across (3 sts)
Row 16: Sc 2, inc (4 sts)
Row 17: Sc 2, dec (3 sts)
Row 18: Sc 2, inc (4 sts)
Row 19: Sc 2, dec (3 sts)
Row 20: Sc 2, inc (4 sts)
Row 21: Sc 2, dec (3 sts)
Row 22: Sc 2, inc (4 sts)
Row 23: Inc, sc 1, dec (4 sts)
Row 24: Dec, sc 2 (3 sts)
Row 25: Inc, sc 2 (4 sts)
Row 26: Dec, sc 1, inc (4 sts)
Tie off. Next we will make the head and then join the head and body together.
Head:
With 3.25mm hook and green yarn.
Row 1: Ch 5, in second ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)
Row 2: Inc twice, sc 1, inc (7 sts)
Row 3: Inc, sc 6 (8 sts)
Row 4: Sc across (8 sts)
Row 5: Sc 6, dec (7 sts)
Row 6: Inc, sc 6 (8 sts), ch 2
Do not tie off.
Joining head and body:
Row 27: Dc 3, sc 4, inc in last st of head, continue across body to join: inc, sc 1, dec (13 sts)
In the next row, you will crochet only part way across the previous row before chaining and turning.
Row 28: Dec, sc 7 (8 sts)
Row 29: Dec, sc 4, dec (6 sts)
Row 30: Dec three times (3 sts)
Tie off.
Tail:
Insert your hook into the first st of row 3, where you previously placed a stitch marker. Join your yarn and continue:
Row 1: Inc, sc 2 (4 sts)
Row 2: Dec, sc 2 (3 sts)
Row 3: Sc 1, dec (2 sts)
Row 4: Dec (1 st)
Tie off.
Repeat the above for the second panel of the snake. Insert 6mm eyes onto the front panel. Feel free to make a little tongue in pink or red yarn by making 3 chain sts and tying off. Stitch the tongue to the inside of the top panel.
Line up the two panels, matching up all sides and sc around the entire piece to join. Stuff lightly as you work up the opposite side (you may need to use the back of your crochet hook or a chopstick). Slst to first st and tie off.
Assembly:
Step 1: Face
First thing’s first! We need to attach and stitch on our facial features to the front panel.
First, insert 12mm eyes (red or blue or black, your choice!) into the front panel in the middle of the head.
Using black crochet thread, stitch on two slits for nostrils and a mouth. I also opted to make a stitch underneath each eye to make him look a bit haggard and ominous.
Step 2: Body and Arms
Okay, here are all the pieces you should now have at this step.
Cut off two lengths of black yarn about 30 cms (12 inches) long each. Put them aside for later.
Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides and colours.
**Make sure the front of Voldy is facing you as you crochet around the outside of the piece.**
Starting on the left side of the head, begin attaching the panels together by single crocheting around the outside of the panels starting in light grey.
Stop when you get to the bottom of the head and leave this for now.
Now, with your tapestry needle and a length of yarn that you set aside earlier, place the first arm between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the arm, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body. I attached the arm at a bit of a downward angle, rather than straight out the side. Do whichever your prefer!
Continue single crocheting down the side of the body, switching to black when you reach the robes. When you get to the arm, simply sc in the stitches of the front panel only, since this part is already sewn shut. Once you are past the arm, continue single crocheting both panels together as normal.
(Sc, ch 2, sc) in the bottom corners of the robes.
Switch colours to dark grey and then back to black again as you crochet across the bottom.
Continue crocheting up the other side of the robe but stop about half-way.
Stuff the body.
Place and attach the second arm the same way you did for the first.
Continue crocheting up the body, switching colours back to light grey for the head.
Stuff the body and head.
Continue single crocheting up and around the head. Top up stuffing as you go as necessary.
When you are satisfied with the stuffing, close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece. Finish with some needle sculpting for the eyes, place Nagini around his shoulders/arms, and you’re done!
Whew! You made it!
Keep your eyes on this space for a giveaway!
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