Professor McGonagall Free Crochet Pattern

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Professor McGonagall Free Crochet Pattern

Welcome back! This is the second of three patterns being released this year for Hogwarts Week 2019!

Today I am bringing you the pattern for Professor Minerva McGonagall (my favourite!) Check out the first post from earlier this week for “Mad-Eye” Moody, or check out the collections from previous years:  Dumbledore, Snape, Hagrid, Harry, Hermione, Ron, Malfoy and Dobby!

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. Our favourite stern professor has just 6 separate pieces (yes, the hat and body are worked all in one piece!) This pattern incorporates the tapestry (or intarsia) crochet technique and has some colour-work involved so please be sure to read the “Reading this Pattern” section!

Her finished measurements are approximately 28cm/11″ from top to bottom.

Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)

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If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE or through the “Shop It” button above! Also, if you simply can’t wait for all of the blog posts to be posted later this week, the patterns are already available in the shop to purchase separately or as a discounted collection!**

Materials:

Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:

Everything is worked in single crochet stitches, unless otherwise specified. So, in order to indicate the many colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “DBinc” means to work a sc increase in dark brown yarn. “DB10, LB7” means to work the next 10 sc in Dark Brown and the next 7 sc in Light Brown. “G10, B5, G10” means to work the first 10 sc in green, the next 5 sc in black, and the last 10 sc in green, and so on.

Due to the colour-changes, you will have several skeins or balls of yarn attached to your project at once. For the robe parts on the front panel (i.e. on either side of the black stripe), I used two skeins of yarn, one for each side , and then again, two skeins of grey, one for each side of the hair. You could also do this by taking one skein of yarn and dividing it into two smaller balls or bobbins. This cuts down significantly on having to carry your yarn.

The bonus part of the colour-changes in amigurumi is that you don’t have to worry about what the back of your panels look like! This is why I carry my yarn on the back instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go. It prevents any colours from bleeding through where they shouldn’t. As long as you always carry your yarn on the back of your panel, you won’t have to tie in any ends and you’ll have a beautiful smooth front with clear lines and colours. Please see the photos below to get an idea of where and how I carried my yarn.

When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.

*Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel!* This will be different depending on whether you’re working an odd or even row. So, for the front panel, whenever you are working an odd-numbered row (row 1, 3, 5, etc), the right side of your panel will be facing you. When you’re working an even-numbered row, the wrong side will be facing you.

This will be the opposite for the back panel. This will ensure that all the yarn ends are facing the inside when the panels are matched up. This is very important, since the panels are not symmetrical.

Colour legend:

LB – Light Brown (Chocolate Tweed)

DB – Dark Brown (Chocolate)

G – Green

B – Black

O – Oatmeal

LG – Light Grey (Caron Simply Soft Gray Heather)

DG – Dark Grey (Red Heart Super Saver Gray Heather)

Terms and Stitches:

Ch – Chain

Slst – Slip stitch

Sc – Single Crochet (again, in rows with colour changes, sc stitches will be indicated with the Colour Legend letter instead of “sc”)

Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease

Dc – Double crochet

BLO – Back loops only

Pattern

Front Body Panel:

You will make 1 panel using a 3.25mm hook. Start with Green. The panel is worked from the bottom up. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row unless specified otherwise.

Row 1: Ch 26, starting in second ch from hook, G10, B5, G10 (25 sts)

Rows 2-3: G10, B5, G10 (25 sts)

Row 4: Gdec, G8, B5, G8, Gdec (23 sts)

Rows 5-9: G9, B5, G9 (23 sts)

Row 10: Gdec, G7, B5, G7, Gdec (21 sts)

Rows 11-14: G8, B5, G8 (21 sts)

Row 15: Gdec, G6, B5, G6, Gdec (19 sts)

Rows 16-17: G7, B5, G7 (19 sts)

Row 18: Gdec, G5, B5, G5, Gdec (17 sts)

Rows 19-20: G6, B5, G6 (17 sts)

Row 21: Gdec, G4, B5, G4, Gdec (15 sts)

Row 22: G5, B5, G5 (15 sts)

Row 23: Gdec, G3, B5, G3, Gdec (13 sts)

Row 24: G4, B5, G4 (13 sts)

In the next row, we will start incorporating the Oatmeal coloured yarn for the face.

Row 25: G2, O9, G2 (13 sts)

Row 26: O13 (13 sts)

Row 27: Oinc, O11, Oinc (15 sts)

Row 28: Oinc, O13, Oinc (17 sts)

Row 29: Oinc, O15, Oinc (19 sts)

In the next row, we will start incorporating Light Grey for the hair.

Row 30: [LG1, O1] into same st, O17, [O1, LG1] into same st (21 sts)

Row 31: LG1, O19, LG1 (21 sts)

Row 32: LGinc, O19, LGinc (23 sts)

In the next row we will start the brim of the hat using the dark brown.

Row 33: LG3, O18, LG2 (23 sts), ch 8 in dark brown.

Row 34: DBinc, DB6 across chs, continue crocheting across previous row: LG4, O15, LG4 (31 sts)

Row 35: LGinc, LG3, O15, LG4, DB7, DBinc (33 sts)

Row 36: DB9, LG5, O13, LG6 (33 sts)

Row 37: LG6, O13, LG5, DB7, DBdec (32 sts)

Row 38: DBdec, DB7, LG6, O11, LG5, [LG1, DB1] in same st (32 sts)

Row 39: DBinc, LG6, O10, LG6, DB7, DBdec (32 sts)

Row 40: DBdec, DB8, LG5, O7, LG8, DB1, DBinc (32 sts)

Row 41: DBinc, DB3, LG8, O6, LG4, DB8, DBdec (32 sts)

Row 42: DBdec, DB10, LG2, O4, LG8, DB5, DBinc (32 sts)

Row 43: DBinc, DB7, LG7, O2, DB11, DBdec twice (31 sts)

In the next row we will start incorporating light brown for the top of the hat.

Row 44: LBdec, LB1, DB28 (30 sts)

Row 45: DB27, LB1, LBdec (29 sts)

Row 46: LB5, DB23, DBinc (30 sts)

Row 47: DB21, LB7, LBdec (29 sts)

Row 48: LBdec, LB10, DB17 (28 sts)

Row 49: DBdec, Dc in the next 4 sts in dark brown, DB5, LB15, LBdec (26)

In the next row, you’ll be crocheting only part way across the previous row before chaining 1 and turning. The remaining rows are worked entirely in light brown.

Row 50: Sc 16 (16 sts)

Row 51: Dec, sc 14 (15 sts)

Row 52: Dec, sc 11, dec (13 sts)

Row 53: Dec, sc 11 (12 sts)

Row 54: Dec, sc 10 (11 sts)

Row 55: Dec, sc 9 (10 sts)

Row 56: Sc 9, inc (11 sts)

Row 57: Inc twice, sc 7, dec (12 sts)

Row 58: Sc 11, inc (13 sts)

Row 59: Inc, sc 12 (14 sts)

Tie off. Now we will make the tip of the hat and join the two pieces (the tip and the front panel) to finish the panel.

Tip of Hat:

Using 3.25mm hook and light brown yarn.

Row 1: Ch 2, sc 1 (1 st)

Row 2: Inc (2 sts)

Do not tie off. Ch 1 and turn. Place the tip of the hat next to the front panel, on the right and crochet across both in the next row:

Row 3: Dec, join the panel and continue, inc, sc 11, dec (15 sts)

Row 4: Dec four times, sc 5, dec (10 sts)

In the next row, you will crochet only part way across the previous row.

Row 5: Dec, sc 3 (4 sts)

Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.

Back Body Panel:

You will make 1 panel using a 3.25mm hook. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row, unless specified otherwise. The panel is worked from the bottom up.

Rows 1 to 23 are worked entirely in green.

Row 1: Ch 26, starting in second ch from hook, sc across (25 sts)

Rows 2-3: Sc across (25 sts)

Row 4: Dec, sc 21, dec (23 sts)

Rows 5-9: Sc across (23 sts)

Row 10: Dec, sc 19, dec (21 sts)

Rows 11-14: Sc across (21 sts)

Row 15: Dec, sc 17, dec (19 sts)

Rows 16-17: Sc across (19 sts)

Row 18: Dec, sc 15, dec (17 sts)

Rows 19-20: Sc across (17 sts)

Row 21: Dec, sc 13, dec (15 sts)

Row 22: Sc across (15 sts)

Row 23: Dec, sc 11, dec (13 sts)

In the next row, we will start incorporating dark grey for the bun.

Row 24: G3, DG7, G3 (13 sts)

Row 25: G1, DG11, G1 (13 sts)

In the next row, we will start incorporating light grey for the rest of the hair.

Row 26: LG1, DG11, LG1 (13 sts)

Row 27: LGinc, DG11, LGinc (15 sts)

Row 28: LGinc, LG1, DG11, LG1, LGinc (17 sts)

Row 29: LGinc, LG3, DG9, LG3, LGinc (19 sts)

Row 30: LGinc, LG5, DG7, LG5, LGinc (21 sts)

Row 31: LG8, DG5, LG8 (21 sts)

Row 32: LGinc, LG19, LGinc (23 sts)

In the next row, we’ll start incorporating dark brown for the brim of the hat.

Row 33: LG19, DB4 (23 sts), ch 8 in DB

Row 34: Starting in second ch from hook, DBinc, DB6 across chs, continue across previous row: DB11, LG12 (31 sts)

Row 35: LGinc, LG6, DB23, DBinc (33 sts)

Row 36: DB29, LG4 (33 sts)

Row 37: LG1, DB30, DBdec (32 sts)

Row 38: DBdec, DB3, LB5, DB21, DBinc (32 sts)

Row 39: DBinc, DB16, LB10, DB3, DBdec (32 sts)

Row 40: DBdec, DB2, LB16, DB11, DBinc (32 sts)

Row 41: DBinc, DB8, LB19, DB2, DBdec (32 sts)

Row 42: DBdec, DB1, LB22, DB6, DBinc (32 sts)

Row 43: DBinc, DB4, LB23, LBdec twice (31 sts)

Row 44: LBdec, LB22, DB7 (30 sts)

Row 45: DB7, LB21, LBdec (29 sts)

Row 46: LB21, DB7, DBinc (30 sts)

Row 47: DB9, LB19, LBdec (29 sts)

Row 48: LBdec, LB17, DB10 (28 sts)

Row 49: DBdec, Dc 4 in dark brown, DB4, LB16, LBdec (26 sts)

In the next row, you will crochet only part way across the previous row before chaining 1 and turning. The remaining rows are worked entirely in light brown.

Row 50: Sc 16 (16 sts)

Row 51: Dec, sc 14 (15 sts)

Row 52: Dec, sc 11, dec (13 sts)

Row 53: Dec, sc 11 (12 sts)

Row 54: Dec, sc 10 (11 sts)

Row 55: Dec, sc 9 (10 sts)

Row 56: Sc 9, inc (11 sts)

Row 57: Inc twice, sc 7, dec (12 sts)

Row 58: Sc 11, inc (13 sts)

Row 59: Inc, sc 12 (14 sts)

Tie off.

Tip of Hat:

Working with 3.25mm hook and light brown yarn.

Row 1: Ch 2, sc 1 (1 st)

Row 2: Inc (2 sts)

Ch 1 and turn. Join both pieces in next row.

Row 3: Dec, join: inc, sc 11, dec (15 sts)

Row 4: Dec four times, sc 5, dec (10 sts)

Crochet only part way across in the next row.

Row 5: Dec, sc 3 (4 sts)

Tie off. Set aside for assembly later.

Arms:

Start in green yarn, using a 3.25mm hook.

Row 1: Ch 5, sc 4 (4 sts)

Rows 2-7: Sc across (4 sts)

Switch to Oatmeal.

Row 8: In BLO, sc across (4 sts)

Rows 9-10: Sc across (4 sts)

Row 11: Dec twice (2 sts)

Tie off.

Repeat rows 1-11 for second panel. Tie off second panel. Put both panels together, matching up all sides and colours and sc around the entire piece, starting in green. Make sure the exposed loops of row 8 are on the front (facing you) as you crochet around. (Sc, ch, Sc) into each of the bottom corners of the sleeve. Switch to Oatmeal coloured-yarn when you get to the hand. Stuff when you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Switch back to green where appropriate. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off. Repeat for second arm.  Set these aside for assembly later.

Assembly:

Step 1: Face

First thing’s first! We need to attach and stitch on our facial features to the front panel.

First, stitch on eye glasses using black crochet thread about 6-7 rows up from the bottom of the face. I did this by weaving the crochet thread through the panel in the shape of glasses (each lens spans 5 sts and the nose bridge spans 3 sts).  Then I used black sewing thread and a needle to stitch down the crochet thread to give the lenses curves and keep them where I wanted them.

Next, insert 8mm eyes above the eye glasses.

Using black crochet thread, stitch on a mouth and eyebrows.

Step 2: Body and Arms

Okay, here are all the pieces you should now have at this step.

mcgonagall

Cut off two lengths of green yarn about 30 cms (12 inches) long each. Put them aside for later.

Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides and colours.

**Make sure the front of McGonagall is facing you as you crochet around the outside of the piece.**

Starting on the left side of the hat, begin attaching the panels together by single crocheting around the outside of the panels starting in light brown.

Switch to dark brown when you get to the brim and then to light grey and then oatmeal as you crochet down the side.

Stop when you get to the bottom of the head and leave this for now.

Now, with your tapestry needle and a length of yarn that you set aside earlier, place the first arm between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the arm, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body. I attached the arm at a bit of a downward angle, rather than straight out the side. Do whichever your prefer!

Continue single crocheting down the side of the body, switching to green when you reach the robes. When you get to the arm, simply sc in the stitches of the front panel only, since this part is already sewn shut. Once you are past the arm, continue single crocheting both panels together as normal.

(Sc, ch 2, sc) in the bottom corners of the robes.

Switch colours to black and then back to green again as you crochet across the bottom.

Continue crocheting up the other side of the robe but stop about half-way.

Stuff the body.

Place and attach the second arm the same way you did for the first.

Continue crocheting up the body, switching colours back to oatmeal and then light grey for the hair, then to dark brown for the brim of the hat, and finally to light brown.

Stuff the body and head.

Picking up where you left off, continue single crocheting up and around the hat. Top up stuffing as you go as necessary. Use the back of your crochet hook to push the stuffing down into all the corners and curves of the hat and hair.

When you are satisfied with the stuffing, close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece. Finish with some needle sculpting for the eyes and you’re done!

Whew! You made it!

Keep your eyes on this space for the pattern for Voldy next!

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3 thoughts on “Professor McGonagall Free Crochet Pattern

  1. Hi! Merlin, I LOVE your patterns! And Minerva is my fav teacher, too!
    I was just wondering: do you reckon is it possible to reduce the measurements (according to stitches count, of course), or would it be a mess and nothing more? 😉

    1. Hi, Agnes! Thanks so much! Yes, you can absolutely make these finished pieces smaller by using a lighter weight yarn. If you used a DK or category 3 weight yarn with a 2.75mm or 2.5mm hook, these stuffies would end up being about two thirds as big. I wouldn’t mess around too much with the actual stitch counts, because that would likely be more frustration than it’s worth.

      Hope that helps!

      Jillian

  2. Great patterns and very goo detailed steps. Way to make crochet available to more. Jillisn, the way I see it. Crochet is one more way to share the love. When we share we work towards world peace one project at a time.
    Happiness and Joy,
    Red Cedat

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