The Prospector Free Crochet Pattern

It’s that time again; one last pattern of the year!

Over the years, I have been slowly designing various characters from the classic Christmas claymation ‘Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer’. Check out my Kris Kringle pattern, my Bumble pattern and some of my loosely-inspired Rudolph patterns (or ones that could be adapted) here, here, here, and here.

I had an absolute blast creating Yukon Cornelius! He is my favourite character from the movie, so I hope you love this design as much as I do.

The Details

The head, body, arms, legs, moustache, earmuffs, nose, hat, and pack are worked in continuous rounds. The beard, the brim of the hat, the belt, the tools, the boot and arms cuffs, and the straps of the pack are worked flat.

The legs, body, and head are worked from the bottom up. The arms are worked starting from the hands. The beard is worked side to side and the moustache is worked in two separate pieces, starting from the outside.

The beard, moustache, nose, hat, and earmuffs are worked separately and are attached to the head. The head, legs, and arms are then attached to the body. Chenille stems (pipecleaners/wire) are used to stabilize the neck and head and to make the arms posable, as well as in the moustache to make it crinkled.

The finished measurements are approximately 28cm/11″ tall.

Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)

If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased the following ways:

• On Etsy HERE or through the “Shop It” button above;
• On Ravelry HERE; or
• On Ribblr HERE!

Materials:

• 2.25mm hook (I use THESE hooks!);
• 3.25mm hook for the hat only;
• Hobbii Rainbow 8/6 Cotton in the following colours (1 skein of each):
  • Color 03 (skin)
  • Color 29 (jeans blue) – for clothes
  • Color 09 (black)
  • Color 101 (rust)
  • Color 82 (yellow)
  • Color 11 (grey)
  • Color 07 (brown)
  • Color 92 (dark blue) – for bedroll
• Hobbii Rainbow 8/8 Cotton in the following colour (1 skein):
  • Color 58 (red) – for hat
• 6 Chenille stems/pipe cleaners;
• 9mm safety eyes;
• Stitch markers;
• Pins;
• Stuffing;
• Tapestry needle.

Terms and Stitches:

Pm – Place marker

Ch – Chain

Slst – Slip stitch

MR – Magic Ring

Sk – Skip a stitch

Sc – Single Crochet

Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease

InvDec – Invisible decrease. Sc 2 sts together using the invisible method

BLO – Back loop only

FLO – Front loop only

Hdc – Half double crochet

Fhdc – Foundation half double crochet – Ch 2, yo, insert hook into first ch, *yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through the first loop on hook (ch st made), yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook (Fhdc st made), yo, insert hook into ch st previously made, repeat from * as needed.

Dc – Double crochet

Pattern

Beard (make 1):

Row 1: In rust colour, work 6 sc into a MR. Do not join. (6 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Inc in first st, sc 4, inc in last st (8 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc in each st across (8 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Inc in first st, sc 6, inc in last st (10 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Sc in each st across (10 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Inc in first st, sc 8, inc in last st (12 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 7: Sc in each st across (12 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 8: Inc in first st, sc 10, inc in last st (14 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 9: Sc in each st across (14 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 10: Inc in first st, sc 12, inc in last st (16 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 11: Sc in each st across (16 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 12: Inc in first st, sc 14, inc in last st (18 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 13: Sc in each st across (18 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 14: Inc in first st, sc 16, inc (20 sts), ch 1, turn.

Rows 15-20: Sc in each st across (20 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 21: Dec, sc 16, dec (18 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 22: Sc in each st across (18 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 23: Dec, sc 14, dec (16 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 24: Sc in each st across (16 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 25: Dec, sc 12, dec (14 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 26: Sc in each st across (14 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 27: Dec, sc 10, dec (12 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 28: Sc in each st across (12 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 29: Dec, sc 8, dec (10 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 30: Sc in each st across (10 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 31: Dec, sc 6, dec (8 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 32: Sc in each st across (8 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 33: Dec, sc 4, dec (6 sts), ch 1, do not turn.

Fold row 33 and slst the ends together. Tie off. Rejoin yarn at the end of the panel (row 1) and decrease around the entire edge of the beard to create a boat shape (approximately 36 sts total). Set aside.

Moustache (make 2):

Rnd 1: In rust coloured yarn, work 4 sts into a MR (4 sts)

Rnds 2-3: Sc in each st around (4 sts)

Rnd 4: *Sc 1, inc in next st, repeat from * once more (6 sts)

Rnds 5-7: Sc in each st around (6 sts)

Rnd 8: *Sc 2, inc in next st, repeat from * once more (8 sts)

Rnds 9-12: Sc in each st around (8 sts)

Rnd 13: *Sc 3, inc in next st, repeat from * once more (10 sts)

Rnds 14-15: Sc in each st around (10 sts)

Rnd 16: *Sc 3, invdec, repeat from * once more (8 sts)

Rnd 17: *Sc 2, invdec, repeat from * Ince more (6 sts).

Tie off, leaving a long tail for closing. Insert chenille stem. Trim chenille stem to the same length as the moustache. Using a tapestry needle, weave tail through each stitch, down through centre and out a stitch in the side. Pull to close. Weave ends. Shape moustache by making two or three bends in each. Set aside.

Nose (make 1):

Rnd 1: In skin colour, work 6 sc into a MR (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc, inc in next 2 sts, sc 4, inc in next 2 sts, sc 3 (16 sts)

Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around (16 sts)

Rnd 6: *Sc 2, invdec, repeat from * three more times (12 sts)

Tie off, leaving a long tail for stitching. Stuff lightly. Set aside.

Hat (make 1):

Row 1: Using the heavier red yarn and 3.25mm hook, ch 13, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across (12 sts), ch 1, turn.

Rows 2-56: In BLO, slst in each st (12 sts), ch 1, turn.

If you need more or fewer rows than 56, feel free to adjust as necessary. The brim should fit around the top of the head (right above the eyes) comfortably without having to stretch too much (some stretching is fine).

Bring the short ends of the brim together to create a circle (i.e. rows 1 and 56) and slst them together. Do not tie off. Ch 1 and begin working around the edge of the brim as follows:

Rnd 1: Sc 30 evenly around the brim (30 sts)

Rnd 2: *Sc 3, invdec, repeat from * five more times (24 sts)

Rnd 3: *Sc 2, invdec, repeat from * five more times (18 sts)

Rnd 4: *Sc 1, invdec, repeat from * five more times (12 sts)

Rnd 5: Invdec around (6 sts)

Tie off, leaving a tail for closing. Using a tapestry needle, weave tail through each stitch, down through centre. Pull to close. Make a small pompom using the same red yarn and attach to the top of the hat. Fold up the brim in half onto itself.

Earmuffs (make 2):

Rnd 1: In yellow yarn, work 6 sts into a MR (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12 sts)

Rnd 3: *Sc 1, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (18 sts)

Rnd 4: *Sc 2, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (24 sts)

Rnds 5-7: Sc in each st around (24 sts)

Rnd 8: *Sc 2, invdec, repeat from * five more times (18 sts)

Rnd 9: *Sc 1, invdec, repeat from * five more times (12 sts)

Tie off, leaving a tail for stitching. Flatten the earmuff. Set aside.

Head (make 1):

Rnd 1: In skin colour, work 6 sc into a MR (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12 sts)

Rnd 3: *Sc 1, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (18 sts)

Rnd 4: *Sc 2, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (24 sts)

Rnd 5: *Sc 3, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (30 sts)

Rnd 6: *Sc 4, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (36 sts)

Rnd 7: *Sc 5, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (42 sts)

Rnd 8: *Sc 6, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (48 sts)

Rnd 9: *Sc 7, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (54 sts)

Rnd 10: *Sc 8, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (60 sts)

Rnd 11: *Sc 9, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (66 sts)

Rnd 12: Sc in each st around (66 sts)

Rnd 13: *Sc 9, invdec, repeat from * five more times (60 sts)

Rnd 14: Sc in each st around (60 sts)

Rnd 15: *Sc 8, invdec, repeat from * five more times (54 sts)

Rnd 16: Sc in each st around (54 sts)

Rnd 17: *Sc 7, invdec, repeat from * five more times (48 sts)

Rnd 18: Sc in each st around (48 sts)

Rnd 19: *Sc 6, invdec, repeat from * five more times (42 sts)

Rnds 20-25: Sc in each st around (42 sts)

Rnd 26: *Sc 5, invdec, repeat from * five more times (36 sts)

Stop here and stuff lightly. Before moving on, stitch on the beard, moustache, earmuffs, and nose as follows:

• For the beard, pin the middle-top of the beard at round 15 of the head. Pin the middle-bottom of the beard at round 2 of the head. Pin each side to keep it in place. Using a tapestry needle and rust coloured yarn, stitch the beard in place on the head by stitching around the entire beard. Stuff the beard when you have stitched about three-quarters of the way around.
• Stitch each side of the moustache in place directly above the beard.
• Using skin coloured yarn, stitch the nose in place directly above the moustache.
• Insert 9mm safety eyes above the nose between rounds 22-23 of the head with approximately 4 sts between them.

Rnd 27: Sc in each st around (36 sts)

Rnd 28: *Sc 4, invdec, repeat from * five more times (30 sts)

Rnd 29: *Sc 3, invdec, repeat from * five more times (24 sts)

Rnd 30: *Sc 2, invdec, repeat from * five more times (18 sts)

Top up stuffing.

Rnd 31: *Sc 1, invdec, repeat from * five more times (12 sts)

Rnd 32: InvDec around (6 sts)

Tie off, leaving a long tail for closing. Top up stuffing. Using a tapestry needle, weave tail through each stitch, down through centre of the head and out a stitch in the side. Pull to close. Weave ends.

Using yellow yarn, stitch each earmuff on either side of the head between rows 13-23. TIP: Put the hat on first to gauge the best position for the earmuffs and pin them in place while you stitch. If you would like the hat to be affixed to the head, stitch it on now. I opted not to stitch it so it is removable.

Set aside.

Body (make 1):

Rnd 1: In jeans blue, work 6sc into a MR (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in east st around (12 sts)

Rnd 3: *Sc 1, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (18 sts)

Rnd 4: *Sc 2, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (24 sts)

Rnd 5: *Sc 3, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (30 sts)

Rnd 6: *Sc 4, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (36 sts)

Rnd 7: *Sc 5, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (42 sts)

Rnd 8: *Sc 6, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (48 sts)

Rnd 9: *Sc 7, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (54 sts)

Rnd 10: In BLO sc in each st around (54 sts)

Rnds 11-14: Sc in each st around (54 sts)

Rnd 15: *Sc 26, inc in next st, repeat from * once more (56 sts)

Rnds 16-17: Sc in each st around (56 sts)

Rnd 18: *Sc 27, inc in next st, repeat from * once more (58 sts)

Rnds 19-23: Sc in each st around (58 sts)

Rnd 24: *Sc 28, inc in next st, repeat from * once more (60 sts)

Rnds 25-28: Sc in each st around (60 sts)

Rnd 29: Invdec around (30 sts)

Rnd 30: *Sc 3, invdec, repeat from * five more times (24 sts)

Rnds 31-32: Sc in each st around (24 sts)

Rnd 33: Sc 5, leave rem sts unworked (this creates a slightly higher ridge at the back of the neck to sew the head onto).

Tie off. Stuff, being sure to push the stuffing up into the curve of the shoulder area to smooth out any ripples around the neckline so that the top of the body lays flat (the body should look more or less like a cylinder).

Take two chenille stems and cross them in the shape of an ‘X’. Twist them together to secure the ‘X’ shape. Bend all four ends upward to create a pyramid shape. Insert the pointed end (the “top” of the pyramid) down into the body with the four ends sticking up out of the neck. Position the head onto the body, inserting each of the four chenille stem ends into the bottom of the head at even intervals to stabilize it (trim the chenille stems as necessary first if the ends are a bit too long). Using blue yarn, stitch the head onto the neck of the body.

Set aside.

Arms (make 2):

Rnd 1: In skin colour, work 6 sc into a MR (6 sts)

Rnd 2: *Sc 2, inc in next st, repeat from * once more (8 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc in each st around (8 sts)

Rnd 4: *Sc 3, inc in next st, repeat from * once more (10 sts)

Rnds 5-6: Sc in each st around (10 sts)

Rnd 7: *Sc 3, invdec, repeat from * once more (8 sts)

Switch to jeans blue yarn.

Rnds 8-9: Sc in each st around (8 sts)

Rnd 10: *Sc 3, inc in next st, repeat from * once more (10 sts)

Rnds 11-13: Sc in each st around (10 sts)

Rnd 14: *Sc 4, inc in next st, repeat from * once more (12 sts)

Rnds 15-19: Sc in each st around (12 sts)

Tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Cut chenille stem about 2 cm/1″ longer than the length of the arm. Insert wire into each arm. Stuff lightly around the chenille stem. Insert exposed wire of each arm into the shoulder on either side of the body. Using a tapestry needle, stitch arms in place. Weave in ends.

Legs (make 2):

Rnd 1: In black, work 6 sc into a MR (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in next 2 sts, sc 4 (8 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc, inc in next 2 sts, sc 5 (10 sts)

Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc in next 2 sts, sc 6 (12 sts)

Rnd 5: Sc in each st around (12 sts)

Rnd 6: Sc 2, invdec two times, sc 6 (10 sts)

Rnd 7: Sc 1, invdec two times, sc 5 (8 sts)

The next three rows are worked in turned rows:

Row 8: Sc 1, ch 1, turn, sc 4, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: Sc 4 (4 sts), ch 1.

Row 10: Fold row 9 and slst together to create the heel of the boot. Tie off.

The remainder of the boot is worked in continuous rounds.

Rnd 11: Rejoin yarn in any stitch around the ankle and sc 12 sts evenly around (12 sts)

Rnd 12: *Sc, invdec, repeat from * three more times (8 sts)

Rnds 13-16: Sc in each st around (8 sts)

Switch to jeans blue yarn.

Rnd 17: Sc in each st around (8 sts)

Rnd 18: *Sc 3, inc in next st, repeat from * once more (10 sts)

Rnds 19-21: Sc in each st around (10 sts)

Rnd 22: *Sc 4, inc in next st, repeat from * once more (12 sts).

Tie off, leaving a long tail for stitching. Stuff. Stitch each leg to the bottom of the body.

Boot and Sleeve Cuffs (make 4 – 2 in black, 2 in jeans blue):

Row 1: Ch 3, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch (2 sts), ch 1, turn.

Rows 2-10: Sc in each st (2 sts)

Stop here for the sleeve cuffs and tie off, leaving a long tail for stitching. For the boot cuffs, continue as follows:

Rows 11-12: Sc in each st (2 sts).

Tie off, leaving a long tail for stitching. Stitch the blue cuffs onto the wrists and the black cuffs onto the tops of each boot. Weave ends.

Belt (make 1):

Row 1: In black, work 40 fhdc (or as many needed to comfortably fit around the body at rows 13-4).

Tie off, leaving a tail for stitching. Wrap the belt around the body at rows 13-14 and stitch in place at the back and at each side. Weave ends. Do not stitch down the front of the belt, as you will be tucking the tools into it later.

Mallet (make 1):

Row 1: In grey, ch 7, starting in 2nd ch from hook, slst in each st (6 sts)

Row 2: Join black yarn, ch 1, 3 sc into the side of row 1 (3 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Inc in first st, sc 1, inc in last st (5 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in each st (5 sts).

Tie off. Weave ends. Tuck mallet into belt.

Revolver (make 1):

Row 1: In grey, ch 8, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc into the first 3 chs, slst 4 (10 sts)

Tie off. Weave ends. Tuck revolver into belt.

Pack (make 1):

Rnd 1: In brown, work 6 sc into a MR (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st (12 sts)

Rnd 3: *Sc 3, inc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * once more (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Sc 4, inc in each of the next 3 sts, sc 6, inc in each of the next 3 sts, sc 2 (24 sts)

Rnd 5: Sc 6, inc in each of the next 3 sts, sc 9, inc in each of the next 3 sts, sc 3 (30 sts)

Rnd 6: Sc 7, inc in each of the next 3 sts, sc 12, inc in each of the next 3 sts, sc 5 (36 sts)

Rnd 7: In BLO sc in each st around (36 sts)

Rnds 8-20: Sc in each st around (36 sts)

Work in turned rows to create the flap as follows:

Row 21: In FLO sc 10 (10 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 22: Sc in each st (10 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 23: Inc in first st, sc 8, inc in last st (12 sts), ch 1, turn.

Rows 24-29: Sc in each st (12 sts)

Row 30: Dec, sc 8, dec (10 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 31: Dec, sc 6, dec (8 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 32: Dec, sc 1, ch 2, sk 2, sc 1, dec (6 sts)

Tie off. Weave ends. Fold the bottom of the bag length-wise to collapse the bag. Fold the sides of the bag inward. Secure with a stitch if you wish (do not stitch if you want the bag to remain functional). Attach a button or a bead at row 14, which can then be inserted into the ch 2 space to secure the front flap.

Straps (make 2):

Row 1: In brown, ch 36, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch (35 sts).

Pin the straps to the bag and try on the pack to make sure the straps are not too short or too long. If so, adjust your starting chain to be shorter or longer as necessary. Stitch the straps to the pack at the top and bottom of each side on the back. Weave ends.

Bedroll (make 1):

Rnd 1: In dark blue, work 6 sc into a MR (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st (12 sts)

Rnd 3: *Sc 1, inc in next st, repeat from * five more times (18 sts)

Rnd 4: In BLO sc in each st around (18 sts)

Rnds 5-22: Sc in each st around (18 sts)

Stuff.

Rnd 23: In BLO sc in each st around (18 sts)

Rnd 24: *Sc 1, invdec, repeat from * five more times (12 sts)

Rnd 25: Invdec around (6 sts)

Tie off. Using a tapestry needle, weave tail through each stitch, down through centre and out a stitch in the side. Pull to close. Weave ends. Stitch the bedroll to the top of the pack.

You’re done!

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