Stegosaurus Free Crochet Pattern

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Stegosaurus Free Crochet Pattern

Hello, friends! It’s about time that I added a new dino pal to my mini dinosaur collection! (It has seriously been too long.) I think we can properly call it a collection now since this is the third in the set! Check out the first two patterns (Brian and Trish) here and here!

Stan the Steggy, as I am affectionately calling him, is really fun to watch come together; adding the back plates really makes this design come alive.

Let’s get into it!

The Details

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. This project has a total of 8 pieces (plus the spots, but they barely count) with zero colour work, so it will work up fairly quickly!

The finished measurements are approximately 26cm/10.5″ across and16cm/6.5″ from top to bottom.

Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)

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If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE or through the “Shop It” button above, or on Ravelry!

Materials:

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Terms and Stitches:

Ch – Chain

MR – Magic Ring

Slst – Slip stitch

Sc – Single Crochet

FSc – Foundation single crochet

Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase

Sc2tog – Single crochet two sts together (work a regular sc decrease)

Sc3tog – Single crochet three sts together

BLO – Back Loops Only

Sk – Skip a stitch

Hdc – Half double crochet

Hdc2tog – Half double crochet two together – work a hdc decrease.

Dc – Double crochet

Tr – Treble crochet

Pattern

Body Panel (make 2):

Use a 3.25mm hook and main colour. We will start by making three separate pieces: the foreleg, the tail, and the head and setting them aside. Then we will start the body panel and join all the pieces together.

Foreleg:

Row 1: Ch 7, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch (6 sts), ch 1, turn.

Rows 2-5: Sc in each st (6 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Sc in each st (6 sts).

Tie off. Set aside.

Tail:

Row 1: Ch 10, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch (9 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Inc in each of the first 2 sts, sc 5, inc in each of the last 2 sts (13 sts).

Tie off. Set aside.

Head:

Row 1: Ch 4, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch (3 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Inc in each st (6 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Inc in each of the first 2 sts, sc 3, inc in last st (9 sts).

Tie off. Set aside.

Body (starting with the Back Leg):

Row 1: Ch 7, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch (6 sts), ch 1, turn.

Rows 2-6: Sc in each st (6 sts), ch 1, turn.

In the next row we will be joining both legs, so you will need the Foreleg that you set aside earlier.

Row 7: Sc 6 across the leg on your hook, Fsc 7, insert hook into first st of Foreleg (the beginning yarn tail should be on the left) and sc 6 across Foreleg, Fsc 3 (22 sts), ch 4, turn.

In the next row we will be joining the tail that you set aside earlier.

Row 8: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3 across chs, sc 22, insert hook into first st of tail (beginning yarn of the tail should be on the right) and sc 11, inc in each of the last 2 sts of the tail (40 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 9: Inc in each of the first 2 sts, sc 36, inc in each of the last 2 sts (44 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 10: Inc in first st, sc 42, inc in last st (46 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 11: Sc 2, leave remaining sts unworked.

Tie off. Skip 7 sts on row 10 and rejoin yarn in 8th st.

Starting the body

Row 11(a): Sc 36, inc in last st (38 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 12: Inc in first st, sc 33, sc2tog twice (37 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 13: Sc2tog twice, sc 32, inc in last st (36 sts).

Tie off.

In the next row, we will join the head to the body. Insert your hook into the first st of the head (the piece you set aside earlier). Beginning yarn tail of the head should be on the right.

Row 14: Sc 9 across head, insert hook into first st of body (the tail should be on the left), inc in first st, sc 33 across the body, sc2tog (45 sts), ch 1, turn.

Joining the head

Row 15: Sc2tog, sc 43 (44 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 16: Sc 42, sc2tog (43 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 17: Sc2tog, sc 41 (42 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 18: Sc2tog, sc 13, leave remaining sts unworked (14 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 19: Sc2tog twice, sc 8, sc2tog (11 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 20: Sc2tog, sc 7, sc2tog (9 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 21: Sc2tog, sc 5, sc2tog (7 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 22: Sc2tog twice, sc3tog (3 sts).

Tie off. With the head on the right, sk 1 st of unworked sts in row 18 and rejoin in the 2nd unworked st.

Finishing the body

Row 18(a): Sc 24, sc2tog (25 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 19(a): Sc 23, sc2tog (24 sts), ch 1, turn.

Rows 20(a)-23: Sc2tog, sc in each st until 2 sts remain, sc2tog (16 sts at row 23), ch 1, turn.

Row 24: Sc2tog twice, sc 10, sc2tog (13 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 25: Sc2tog twice, sc 5, sc2tog twice (9 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 26: Sc2tog twice, sc 1, sc2tog twice (5 sts).

Tie off. Repeat all of the above to make the back body panel.

Back Plates:

The plates are worked in two separate pieces, with each piece consisting of 6 plates worked along one long chain. The pieces are then joined together and stuffed.

With a 3.25mm hook and dark orange yarn, ch 33.

First plate:

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, leave remaining ch unworked (1 st), ch 1, turn.

Row 2: 3sc into the same st (3 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Inc in first st, sc 1, inc in last st (5 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc2tog, sc 1, sc2tog (3 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Sc3tog (1 st), ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Sc 1 (1 st).

Tie off.

Second Plate:

Row 1: Sk 4 chs, insert hook into next ch, sc in each of the next 2 chs, leave remaining chs unworked (2 sts), ch 1, turn.

Starting the second plate

Row 2: Inc in each st (4 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Inc in first st, sc 2, inc in last st (6 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in each st (6 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Sc2tog, sc 2, sc2tog (4 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Sc2tog twice (2 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 7: Sc2tog (1 st).

Tie off.

Third Plate:

Row 1: Sk 4 sts, insert hook into next ch, sc in each of the next 3 chs, leave remaining chs unworked (3 sts), ch 1, turn.

Starting the third plate

Row 2: Inc in first st, sc 1, inc in last st (5 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Inc in first st, sc 3, inc in last st (7 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in each st (7 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Sc2tog, sc 3, sc2tog (5 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Sc2tog, sc 1, sc2tog (3 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 7: Sc3tog (1 st), ch 1, turn.

Row 8: Sc 1 (1 st).

Tie off.

Fourth Plate: Repeat third plate.

Fifth Plate: Repeat second plate.

Sixth Plate: Sk 4 sts, repeat first plate.

Repeat the above for the second panel of back plates. Roughly weave ends to the back of each panel; this is just to get them out of the way while joining the panels; the ends will be hidden inside when you join them so it doesn’t have to be perfect! Remember, in order for the panels to match up perfectly, the “back” of each one will be opposites.

With right side facing you, insert hook through both panels at the bottom of the first plate. Sc around the plate to join the panels. To create the points of each plate, work the following at the widest part on each side of the plates and at the top of each plate:

[Sc, ch 1, sc] all into the same st.

Stop before you reach the bottom of each plate and stuff lightly. Continue crocheting the plates together. Slst across the chains between each plate, then resume single crocheting the next plate together as usual, being sure to create the points at the widest parts and the top as indicated above.

When you reach the other end of the chain and all plates have been crocheted together and stuffed, tie off and weave in ends.

Shadow Legs (make 2):

Use 3.25mm hook and main yarn. These are the legs in the background which give Stan a more three-dimensional look.

Row 1: Ch 5, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch (4 sts), ch 1, turn.

Rows 2-4: Sc in each st (4 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Sc in each st (4 sts).

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-5 for back panel.

Place both panels together, matching up all rows. Insert hook through both panels at any stitch and begin single crocheting around the edge to join the panels.

Crochet the following into each corner: [Sc, ch 1, sc] all in the same st

Stuff lightly and close with a slst to first st. Hide yarn tail inside.

Spots (Make 7):

Use 3.25mm hook and yellow yarn.

Rnd 1: Work 6 sc into a magic ring (6 sts). Join to beg st with a slst.

Tie off.

Move on to assembly below!

Assembly:

Step 1: Face and Spots

Insert one 10mm safety eye onto the front panel between 5 and 6, counting down from the top of the head and about 6 to 7 stitches in from the left.

Using black crochet thread and a tapestry needle, stitch the mouth onto the panel starting about 3 to 4 rows down from the eye and spanning diagonally across 3 rows.

With yellow yarn and a tapestry needle, stitch the spots onto the front panel with five spots on top (following the curve of the back) and two on bottom.

Step 2: Back Plates

Place the two body panels together so that all edges line up perfectly. Place the back plates between the two panels. The first plate should start at the base of the tail and the last plate should sit right behind the head. The plates will overlap slightly. Pin in place if you prefer.

Using a tapestry needle and main colour yarn, stitch the back plates in place between the two body panels from the tail end, across the back, to the other end. Tie off and hide yarn tails inside the body panels.

Step 3: Joining Panels and Finishing

Ensure the front is facing you as you crochet around. Starting in a stitch at the tip of the tail, begin attaching the panels together by inserting your hook through both panels and single crocheting around the outside edge of the panels using a 3.25mm hook and main colour yarn. Crochet with a looser tension to create smooth curves, especially around the top of the back and around the head.

When crocheting across the back, crochet in the stitches of the front panel only, since this section is already stitched closed. Crochet both panels together as usual once past the back plates.

Stop when you’ve crocheted around the head. Stuff the head.

Stop when you’ve crocheted around the first leg. Stuff the body and leg.

Stop when you’ve crocheted around the second leg. Top up stuffing in the body and stuff the second leg.

Continue crocheting around, topping up stuffing until your dino is firm. When satisfied with the stuffing, close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.

Stitch the two shadow legs behind and slightly higher than the front legs.

You’re done!

Happy crocheting!

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4 thoughts on “Stegosaurus Free Crochet Pattern

    1. Hi Rachel, the pattern is free on my blog. If you want an ad-free/downloadable/printable version, I charge a small fee for the PDF version on my Etsy and Ravelry shops.

  1. Hi, Lovely pattern. I have made all the pieces but struggling to with how to stitch the plates in place. Are you able to explain in more detail as my sewing skills are atrocious… I have only ever crocheted pieces together.
    Many thanks,
    Stacey

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