This is the second addition to my Animal Crossing series. You can check out the first pattern for Coco here! Lily is one of my favourite villagers so I knew I had to make her next!
As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as all my patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. This amigurumi has just 4 separate pieces.
The finished measurements are approximately 10cm/4.5″ from top to bottom. There is a little bit of colourwork in this pattern, so pay particular attention to the legend for those rows.
Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)
If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE or through the “Shop It” button above!
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- 2.75mm hook (I use THESE hooks!);
- Caron Simply Soft in Off White (less than 50g);
- Caron Simply Soft in Robins Egg (less than 50g);
- Caron Simply Soft in Plum Wine for cheeks (small amounts);
- Any light/DK weight yarn in turquoise for mouth (small amounts);
- Tapestry needle.
Terms and Stitches:
Ch – Chain
Slst – Slip stitch
MR – Magic Ring
Sc – Single crochet
Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase
Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease
Sc3tog – Single crochet 3 together. Work a decrease across 3 stitches.
Hdc – Half double crochet
Dc – Double crochet
Using a 2.75mm hook, the panels are worked from the bottom up. Start in white.
Row 1: Ch 11, starting in second ch from hook, sc across (10 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 2: Inc twice, sc 6, inc twice (14 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 3: Inc twice, sc 10, inc twice (18 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 4: Inc, sc 16, inc (20 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 5: Sc across (20 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 6: Inc, sc 18, inc (22 sts), ch 1, turn
In the next row, we will start the colour work. W=White and G=Green. Everything is worked in sc stitches. When changing colours, you will partly work the last st of colour A by pulling up a loop, then join colour B and finish the stitch with B. Continue with colour B. Be sure to carry your yarn on the back of your panel.
Row 7: Winc, W7, G6, W7, Winc (24 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 8: W6, G12, W6 (24 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 9: W5, G14, W5 (24 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 10: W3, G18, E3 (24 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 11: W2. G20, W2 (24 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 12: W1, G22, W1 (24 sts), ch 1, turn
All remaining rows are worked in green.
Row 13: Sc across (24 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 14: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 15: Sc across (22 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 16: Dec, sc 18, dec (20 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 17: Sc across (20 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 18: Dec, sc 16, dec (18 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 19: Inc, sc 16, inc (20 sts), ch 1, turn
Now we will start the first eye, which means you will crochet only part way across the next row before chaining and turning.
Row 20: Sc 8 (8 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 21: Dec, sc 6 (7 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 22: Sc across (7 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 23: Dec, sc 5 (6 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 24: Dec, sc 4 (5 sts)
Tie off. Position the panel so that the eye you just completed is on the left. Rejoin your yarn into the last st of row 19 and repeat rows 20-24 for the second eye.
Repeat all of the above for the back panel.
Using 2.75mm hook and plum yarn.
Row 1: Ch 2, sc 1 (1 st), ch 1, turn
Row 2: Inc (2 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 3: Inc in each st (4 sts), ch 1, turn
Rows 4-8: Sc across (4 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 9: Dec, sc 2 (3 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 10: Dec, sc 1 (2 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 11: Dec (1 st)
Tie off. The side that is facing you is the “right” side of the cheek. Single crochet along the inside edge (i.e. the edge that will be facing the mouth) to give the cheek a smooth edge. Leave the other side unworked; the other side will be finished when you assemble the piece. Tie off and set aside for later.
Using 2.75mm hook and plum yarn.
Rows 1-8: Repeat rows 1 to 8 of the Left Cheek
Row 9: Sc 2, dec (3 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 10: Sc 1, dec (2 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 11: Dec (1 st)
Tie off. The side that is facing you is the “right” side of the cheek. Single crochet along the inside edge (i.e. the edge that will be facing the mouth; this will be the opposite side from the cheek you completed earlier) to give the cheek a smooth edge. Leave the other side unworked; the other side will be finished when you assemble the piece. Tie off and set aside for later.
Move on to final assembly below!
Step 1: Face
First, using turquoise yarn, surface slipstitch along the face where the white section meets the green section to create Lily’s smile. Tie off.
Next, line up the left cheek to the side of the panel (the rows should line up exactly) and stitch it in place. Repeat for the right cheek.
Finally, using black crochet thread, stitch two happy eyes on the front panel. You can also use safety eyes if you prefer.
Step 2: Head
Here are the pieces you should now have at this step. (You will note that my back panel was worked completely in green, however, I realized later that the white patch on Lily’s face goes all the way around the head, so your front and back panels should be the same).
Make sure the front is facing you as you crochet around the outside.
Starting on the left side, at the top of the eye, begin attaching the panels together by single crocheting around the outside of the panels.
Crochet down the side of the head, switching to plum when you get to the left cheek (you will be crocheting through all three panels here; the back panel, the front panel and the cheek). Switch to white when you are past the cheek.
Crochet around the bottom of the head and up the other side, switching back to plum for the other cheek. Start stuffing.
Continue crocheting up the side, switching back to green after the cheek. Continue stuffing as you go. Crochet up and around the first eye, being sure to stuff the eye well.
Crochet around the second eye, topping up stuffing as you go.
When you are satisfied with the stuffing, close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.
I had some wire in my stash so, since Lily is often wearing adorable round glasses, I whipped up some specs using the wire. All I had was red wire, but you could use black or brown. Simply create two circles (I used the bottom of a shot glass to help keep them round and even) and connect the two circles with another piece of wire.
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