Cozy Snowman Free Crochet Pattern

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Cozy Snowman Free Crochet Pattern

Can you imagine a cozier snowman? I definitely cannot.

With his buffalo plaid trapper hat, fur vest and warm scarf, he is absolutely ready to tackle this winter season!

Before we jump in, I just want to point out how absolutely adorable this amigurumi would be made in pink faux fur yarn with a pink and grey plaid hat! Please, please someone do this and make my life.

The Details

As you probably noticed right from the get-go, this Snowman pattern uses Lion Brand Go For Faux yarn for the hat and vest. The Go For Faux is a bulky (category 6) weight yarn, which adds somewhat more of a challenge to this pattern than some of my other colour-worked patterns for two reasons. First, the very nature of fuzzy yarn is that the stitches are a bit harder to see; you’ll be relying a lot on feel and stitch markers.

Second, I have not adjusted the hook size to account for the bulky yarn. Yep, you read that right. You will be using a 3.25mm hook with the bulky yarn! It has to be worked this way because if you sized up the hook, your gauge will be all wrong for the parts using worsted weight yarn. Even if you sized up the hook for only the fur parts, the proportions will be totally off. So, a 3.25mm hook is used throughout. What this means is that your tension for the fur sections will be very tight.

There are some fur yarns out there that are lighter in weight than the Go For Faux; if you are able to find a worsted weight fur yarn that you like, by all means, use it! You can just adjust your tension to match the rest of pattern, so that it’s the same tension throughout. Easy peasy!

One last note on the Go For Faux. The line also comes in a Thick & Quick version. The T&Q will NOT work for this pattern. The Thick & Quick is a Jumbo (category 7) yarn and it absolutely will be too big to make this pattern work.

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. This snowman has 7 separate pieces. This pattern incorporates the tapestry (or intarsia) crochet technique and has a fair bit of colour-work involved so please be sure to read the “Reading this Pattern” section!

His finished measurements are approximately 31cm/12.5″ from top to bottom.

Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)

If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE or through the “Shop It” button above!

Materials:

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Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:

Everything is worked in single crochet stitches, unless otherwise specified. So, in order to indicate the colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. Here are some examples:

  • “Finc” means to work a sc increase in fur yarn.
  • “F10, W7” means to work the next 10 sc in fur and the next 7 sc in White.
  • “Fdec, W8, Fdec” means to work a regular sc decrease in fur, then work the next 8 stitches in white, then work another sc decrease in fur, and so on.

Due to the colour-changes, you will have several skeins or balls of yarn attached to your project at once. For example, cut off a couple of small balls of white yarn so that you can use one on each side for each arm hole. That way, you do not need to carry the yarn inside the stitch or carry it all the way across the back of the panel. Do the same for the fur for each side of the vest and the flaps of the hat, as well as for black, burgundy and red for the flaps of the hat.

When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour X and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour Y, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour Y. Drop your working yarn in Colour X and continue with Colour Y. You will pick your Colour X working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.

Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel! This will be different depending on whether you’re working an odd or even row. So, for the front panel, whenever you are working an odd-numbered row (row 1, 3, 5, etc), the right side of your panel will be facing you. When you’re working an even-numbered row, the wrong side will be facing you.

This will be the opposite for the back panel. This will ensure that all the yarn ends are facing the inside when the panels are matched up.

Colour legend:

W – White

Br – Burgundy

B – Black

R – Red

F – Fur

Terms and Stitches:

Ch – Chain

Slst – Slip stitch

Sc – Single Crochet (again, in rows with colour changes, sc stitches will be indicated with the Colour Legend letter instead of “sc”)

Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease

Hdc – Half double crochet

Pattern

Front Body Panel:

You will make 1 panel using a 3.25mm hook. Start with White. The panel is worked from the bottom up. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row unless specified otherwise.

Rows 1 to 12 are worked entirely in white.

Row 1: Ch 14, starting in second ch from hook sc 13 (13 sts)

Row 2: Inc twice, sc 9 inc twice (17 sts)

Row 3: Inc twice, sc 13, inc twice (21 sts)

Row 4: Inc twice, sc 17, inc twice (25 sts)

Row 5: Inc, sc 23, inc (27 sts)

Row 6: Inc, sc 25, inc (29 sts)

Row 7: Inc, sc 27, inc (31 sts)

Row 8: Inc, sc 29, inc (33 sts)

Row 9: Sc across (33 sts)

Row 10: Inc, sc 31, inc (35 sts)

Rows 11-12: Sc across (35 sts)

In the next row we will start the colour-work for the vest.

Row 13: W2, F8, W15, F8, W2 (35 sts)

Row 14: W1, F11, W11, F11, W1 (35 sts)

Rows 15-18: F13, W9, F13 (35 sts)

Rows 19-22: F14, W7, F14 (35 sts)

Row 23: Wdec, W1, F11, W7, F11, W1, Wdec (33 sts)

Row 24: W3, F10, W7, F10, W3 (33 sts)

Row 25: Wdec, W2, F9, W7, F9, W2, Wdec (31 sts)

Row 26: W3, F9, W7, F9, W3 (31 sts)

Row 27: Wdec, W2, F9, W5, F9, W2, Wdec (29 sts)

Row 28: W3, F9, W5, F9, W3 (29 sts)

Row 29: Wdec, W1, F9, W5, F9, W1, Wdec (27 sts)

Row 30: W2, F9, W5, F9, W2 (27 sts)

Row 31: Wdec, F8, W7, F8, Wdec (25 sts)

Row 32: Fdec, F5, W11, F5, Fdec (23 sts)

Row 33: Fdec, F2, W15, F2, Fdec (21 sts)

Rows 34 to 38 are worked entirely in white yarn.

Row 34: Dec twice, sc 13, dec twice (17 sts)

Row 35: Inc, sc 15, inc (19 sts)

Row 36: Inc, sc 17, inc (21)

Row 37: Inc, sc 19, inc (23 sts)

Row 38: Sc 23 (23 sts), in fur ch 5, turn

Row 39: F4 along chs, continue along previous row Winc, W21, Winc (29 sts), in fur ch 5, turn

Row 40: Finc in second ch from hook, B1 in next ch, F2 in last 2 chs, continue along previous row W25, F2, B1, Finc (35 sts)

Row 41: F1, R2, Br1, F1, W25, F1, R2, Br1, F1 (35 sts)

Row 42: F1, Br1, R2, F2, W23, F2, Br1, R2, F1 (35 sts)

Row 43: Rdec, R1, Br2, F1, W23, F1, R3, Brdec (33 sts)

Row 44: B1, Br3, F2, W21, F2, B2, Br2 (33 sts)

Row 45: Brdec, B2, F2, W21, F2, Br2, Brdec (31 sts)

Row 46: Brdec, Br1, B1, F1, W21, F1, B2, Bdec (29 sts)

Row 47: Br3, F2, W19, F2, Br1, R2 (29 sts)

Row 48: Rdec, Br3, F3, W13, F3, R2, Br1, Brdec (27 sts)

Row 49: Br2, R3, F17, R1, Br3, R1 (27 sts)

Row 50: Bdec, B2, Br1, F17, Br3, Bdec (25 sts)

Row 51: B1, Br3, F17, Br1, B3 (25 sts)

Row 52: B3, Br1, F17, Br3, B1 (25 sts)

Row 53: Br1, R3, Br1, F15, R2, Br3 (25 sts)

Row 54: Br3, R2, F15, Br1, R3, Br1 (25 sts)

Row 55: Br1, R3, Br2, F13, R3, Br3 (25 sts)

Row 56: [B3, Br3], repeat [ ] three more times, B1 (25 sts)

Row 57: B1, [Br3, B3], repeat [ ] three more times (25 sts)

Row 58: Bdec, B1, [Br3, B3], repeat [ ] two more times, Br2, Brdec (23 sts)

Row 59: Rdec, R1, [Br3, R3], repeat [ ] two more times, Brdec (21 sts)

Row 60: Br1, [R3, Br3], repeat [ ] two more times, R2 (21 sts)

Row 61: Brdec twice, Br1, R3, Br3, R3, Br3, Rdec twice (17 sts)

Tie off. Set aside for assembly later.

Back Body Panel:

Using 3.25mm hook and white yarn. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row unless specified otherwise. Rows 1 to 10 are worked entirely in white.

Rows 1-10: Repeat rows 1 to 10 of the front body panel.

Row 11: W9, F17, W9 (35 sts)

Row 12: W6, F23, W6 (35 sts)

Row 13: W3, F29, W3 (35 sts)

Row 14: W1, F33, W1 (35 sts)

Rows 15-22: F35 (35 sts)

Row 23: Wdec, W1, F29, W1, Wdec (33 sts)

Row 24: W3, F27, W3 (33 sts)

Row 25: Wdec, W2, F25, W2, Wdec (31 sts)

Row 26: W3, F25, W3 (31 sts)

Row 27: Wdec, W2, F23, W2, Wdec (29 sts)

Row 28: W3, F23, W3 (29 sts)

Row 29: Wdec, W1, F23, W1, Wdec (27 sts)

Row 30: W2, F23, W2 (27 sts)

Row 31: Wdec, F23, Wdec (25 sts)

Row 32: Fdec, F6, W9, F6, Fdec (23 sts)

Row 33: Fdec, F3, W13, F3, Fdec (21 sts)

Rows 34 to 37 are worked entirely in white.

Row 34: Dec twice, sc 13, dec twice (17 sts)

Row 35: Inc, sc 15, inc (19 sts)

Row 36: Inc, sc 17, inc (21 sts)

Row 37: Inc, sc 19, inc (23 sts)

Now we’ll start the colour-work for the hat.

Row 38: W7, B1, Br3, B3, Br2, W7 (23 sts), in burgundy ch 5, turn

Row 39: Br2, B2 along chs, continue across previous row Winc, W4, B1, [Br3, B3], repeat [ ] once more, W4, Winc (27 sts), in black ch 5, turn

Row 40: Binc, Br3, W4, Br2, [B3, Br3], repeat [ ] once more, B3, W4, B2, Br1, Brinc (35 sts)

Row 41: R3, Br2, W3, R1, [Br3, R3], repeat [ ] two more times, W3, R3, Br2 (35 sts)

Row 42: Br2, R3, Br1, W1, Br1, [R3, Br3], repeat [ ] two more times, R2, W1, Br3, R3 (35 sts)

Row 43: Rdec, R1, Br3, W1, R2, [Br3, R3], repeat [ ] two more times, Br1, W1, Br1, R3, Brdec (33 sts)

Row 44: B1, [Br3, B3], repeat [ ] four more times, Br2 (33 sts)

Row 45: Brdec, [B3, Br3], repeat [ ] three more times, B3, Br2, Brdec (31 sts)

Row 46: Brdec, Br1, [B3, Br3], repeat [ ] three more times, B2, Bdec (29 sts)

Row 47: [Br3, R3], repeat [ ] three more times, Br3, R2 (29 sts)

Row 48: Rdec, [Br3, R3], repeat [ ] three more times, Br1, Brdec (27 sts)

Row 49: Br2, [R3, Br3], repeat [ ] three more times, R1 (27 sts)

Row 50: Bdec, B2, [Br3, B3], repeat [ ] two more times, Br3, Bdec (25 sts)

Row 51: B1, [Br3, B3], repeat [ ] three more times (25 sts)

Row 52: [B3, Br3], repeat [ ] three more times, B1 (25 sts)

Row 53: Br1, [R3, Br3], repeat [ ] three more times (25 sts)

Row 54: [Br3, R3], repeat [ ] three more times, Br1 (25 sts)

Row 55: Br1, [R3, Br3], repeat [ ] three more times (25 sts)

Row 56: [B3, Br3], repeat [ ] three more times, B1 (25 sts)

Row 57: B1, [Br3, B3], repeat [ ] three more times (25 sts)

Row 58: Bdec, B1, [Br3, B3], repeat [ ] two more times, Br2, Brdec (23 sts)

Row 59: Rdec, R1, [Br3, R3], repeat [ ] two more times, Brdec (21 sts)

Row 60: Br1, [R3, Br3], repeat [ ] two more times, R2 (21 sts)

Row 61: Brdec twice, Br1, [R3, Br3], repeat [ ] once more, Rdec twice (17 sts)

Tie off. Set aside for assembly later.

Stick Arms:

In brown yarn using a 3.25mm hook.

Row 1: Ch 3, starting in second ch from hook, sc 2 (2 sts)

Rows 2-9: Sc across (2 sts)

Row 10: Inc in each st (4 sts)

In the next row, you will crochet only halfway across (2 sts) before chaining and turning.

Row 11: Sc 2 (2 sts)

Rows 12-14: Sc across (2 sts)

Tie off. Turn your work so that the small branch you just finished is on the left. Reattach your yarn in the first st of the unworked stitches of row 10. Repeat rows 11-14.

Repeat all of the above for the second panel. Tie off second panel. Put both panels together, matching up all sides and sc around the entire piece. (Sc, ch, Sc) into each of the corners of the bottom and the top two branches. You do not need to stuff the arms. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off. Repeat for second arm.  Set these aside for assembly later.

Nose:

Using 3.25mm hook and orange yarn.

Row 1: Ch 7, starting in second ch from hook, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2 (6 st)

Tie off, leaving a long tail for stitching it on.

Scarf:

Using a lightweight (category 3) yarn in the colour of your choice (I used Patons Astra in ) navy blue and 3.25mm hook.

Row 1: Ch 5, starting in third ch from hook, hdc 3 (3 sts)

Rows 2-120: Hdc across (3 sts)

Tie off.

For fringe, cut six lengths of navy yarn, about 15cm/6″ long. Fold one in half and weave through last st at one end of the scarf. Pull ends through the loop and pull tight. Repeat twice more for remaining two stitches. Repeat on other end of scarf.

I made the scarf quite long so that I could fold it in half, wrap it around the Snowman’s neck and pull the ends through the loop. You could make the scarf shorter if you prefer to just wrap it around.

Move on to assembly below!

Assembly:

Step 1: Face

First, we need to attach and stitch on our facial features to the front panel.

Insert 12mm safety eyes into the front panel approximately 7-8 rows above the top of the vest. Don’t attach the backs just yet.

Next, position the nose so that it is between the eyes, with the bottom of the nose lining up approximately with the 5th row up from the top of the vest. Stitch the nose in place using the long tail.

Now, if you are satisfied with the placement of the eyes in relation to the nose, attach the backs of the safety eyes. If not, reposition them until you’re satisfied.

Using black crochet thread and your tapestry needle, stitch on a little mouth. Stitch on two eyebrows about 3-4 rows above the eyes.

Step 2: Body and Arms

Okay, here are all the pieces you should now have at this step.

Snowman

Cut off two lengths of white yarn about 30 cms (12 inches) long each. Put them aside for later.

Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides and colours.

Make sure the front of your Cozy Snowman is facing you as you crochet around the outside of the piece.

Starting on the left side of the hat at the first black section, begin attaching the panels together by single crocheting around the outside of the panels.

Crocheting around the piece is going to be one of the most challenging parts of this project because you will need to change colours quite a few times. When changing colours, don’t cut the yarn but instead, tuck the colour that you no longer need down between the panels before you pick up the new colour. That way, when you need it again, you can pick up the colour from the inside of the amigurumi when you need it again. This prevents you from having to cut and reattach it every time.

Crochet down to the top of the vest, changing colours as you go where necessary. Stop here for now.

Now, with your tapestry needle and a length of white yarn that you set aside earlier, place the first arm between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the arm, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body.

Continue single crocheting down the side of the body. When you get to the arm, simply sc in the stitches of the front panel only, since this part is already sewn shut. Once you are past the arm, continue single crocheting both panels together as normal, switching back to fur and then back to white for the bottom where necessary.

Continue crocheting up the other side, switching back to fur where appropriate. Stop before the armhole.

Stuff your Snowman.

Next, with your tapestry needle and a length of white yarn that you set aside earlier, place the second arm between the panels and attach it the same way you did for the first.

Continue crocheting up the body, switching colours where necessary. Stop at the top of the hat.

Stuff the body and head very firmly.

Continue single crocheting across the top of the hat, changing colours as you go. Top up stuffing as you go as necessary. 

When you are satisfied with the stuffing, close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece. Finish with some needle sculpting for the eyes, add the scarf, and you’re done!

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2 thoughts on “Cozy Snowman Free Crochet Pattern

  1. Oh my goodness! I keep thinking they can’t get any cuter (I’ve made the unicorn a few times, Harry Potter, Ron Weasley) and here you go again! This is definitely on my to do list!

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