Pocket Bunny Free Crochet Pattern

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Pocket Bunny Free Crochet Pattern

I’m back with another friend in our Pocket Pets series! We’re over the hump of Valentine’s Day which means I’ve got Spring and Easter on my mind! Which is convenient, because that is exactly when Pocket Bunnies (or Pocket Buns, as I like to call them), come out of hibernation. Great timing!

Check out the other Pocket Pets in the collection: Pocket Fox, Pocket Raccoon, and the Pocket Pug.

Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)

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If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE or through the “Shop It” button above!

Materials:

  • 2.75mm hook (I use THESE hooks!);
  • Caron Simply Soft in the following colours:
    • White and Plum Wine for belly and ears (small amounts). The colour you use will depend on the main colour of your bun; for example, I used white for the belly with the pink and grey bunnies and pink for the belly with the white bunny;
    • Any other colour as your main colour (I made Pocket Buns in colourways Plum Wine, Grey Heather, and White) (50g);
  • 10mm safety eyes (optional – you can also stitch the eyes on using crochet thread);
  • Black crochet thread for nose and mouth;
  • Stuffing;
  • Tapestry needle.

Our little Pocket Buns are worked flat and then joined together in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns. The pattern is made up of just 2 separate pieces (plus the pompom tail). The finished measurements are approximately 15cm/6″ from top to bottom.

Just a note on hook and yarn size before we begin: using a 2.75mm hook when working with worsted weight yarn is admittedly a little more difficult, as the tension will be very tight, but, in my experience, Caron Simply Soft yarns are on the lighter side of worsted and work well for Pocket Pets. Alternatively, you could use a light weight yarn instead of a worsted, or simply size up your hook for a bigger Pocket Bun.

Stitches and Special Terms (US Terminology):

Ch – Chain

St – Stitch

Sc – Single crochet

Inc – Increase. Work 2 sc in the same st.

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease.

Reading this Pattern:

There is some colour work involved in this pattern. Carry the yarn on the back of the panels by dropping the working yarn when you switch colours and picking it back up again when you need it in the next part of the row. Always carry the yarn on the wrong side (instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go); this ensures the front of the panel has clear lines and colours without any of the yarn carries showing through.

When switching to a new colour, insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop, then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again when you need it.

Since the whole pattern is worked in sc stitches, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts and used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “M3, W1” means to work the next 3 stitches in the main (fur) colour (in this case, pink) and the next stitch in white. “Wdec” means to work a regular sc decrease in white, and so on.

Colour Legend:

M – Main

W – White

Front Panel (make 1 panel) with 2.75mm hook:

The panels are worked from the bottom up. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row. First, you will make two separate legs and then join the legs in row 5 below.

Legs

Row 1: In main colour, ch 5, sc across (4 sts)

Row 2: Minc, M2, Minc (6 sts)

Row 3: M6 (6 sts)

Row 4: Minc, M5 (7 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-4 for the second leg. The “inc” of row 4 should be on the outside of both legs; the yarn tails from where you just tied off will be pointing inward on both, toward each other.

Legs before joining

Body

Now you have two separate legs, as seen above. In row 5, you will join your yarn in the first st and crochet across both legs, joining them.

Row 5: M6, Minc in last st of first leg, Minc in first st of second leg, M6 (16 sts)

Row 6: Minc, M5, W4, M5, Minc (18 sts)

Row 7: M6, W6, M6 (18 sts)

Row 8: M5, W8, M5 (18 sts)

Row 9: M4, W10, M4 (18 sts)

Row 10: M3, W12, M3 (18 sts)

Now we will start the arms (the below pics are from the Pocket Fox, but the technique is the same!)

Row 11: In M colour, ch 5, M4 along chs, then cont to crochet along previous row, M3, W12, M3 (22 sts)

Row 12: In M, ch 5, M4 along chs, then cont along previous row, M3, W12, M7 (26 sts)

Row 13: M7, W12, M7 (26 sts)

Tie off.

Now we will start the head. Turn your work so that the back (wrong side) of the panel is facing you. Join your main yarn into the 5th stitch.

Incomplete Pocket Bun panel

Head

Row 14: M18 (18 sts)

Row 15: Minc twice, M14, Minc twice (22 sts)

Row 16: Minc, M20, Minc (24 sts)

Row 17: Minc, M22, Minc (26 sts)

Rows 18-20: M26 (26 sts)

Row 21: Mdec, M22, Mdec (24 sts)

Row 22: Mdec, M20, Mdec (22 sts)

Row 23: Mdec, M18, Mdec (20 sts)

Rows 24-26: M20 (20 sts)

Row 27: Mdec, M16, Mdec (18 sts)

Row 28: M18 (18 sts)

Row 29: Mdec, M14, Mdec (16 sts)

Row 30: Mdec, M12, Mdec (14 sts)

Do not tie off. Now we will start the first ear.

Row 31: Mdec, W3, M1 (5 sts)

Rows 32-38: M1, W3, M1 (5 sts)

Row 39: M2, W1, M2 (5 sts)

Row 40: Mdec, M1, Mdec (3 sts)

Row 41: Mdec all three sts together. (1 st)

Tie off.

With the wrong side of the panel facing you, rejoin your yarn in the last st of row 30 to start the second ear. Repeat rows 31-41 for second ear and tie off.

Back Panel (make 1 panel) with 2.75mm hook:

The back body panel is worked exactly the same as the front, except it is worked entirely in the main colour and the right/wrong side of the panel will be the opposite as it was for the first panel (this is so that the panels will match up exactly when we are ready to join them with all the yarn tails and carries on the inside).

Legs

Row 1: In main colour, ch 5, sc across (4 sts)

Row 2: Inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)

Row 3: Sc across (6 sts)

Row 4: Inc, sc 5 (7 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-4 for the second leg. Again, you will want to make sure the “inc” of row 4 is on the outside of both legs; the yarn tails from where you just tied off will be pointing inward on both, toward each other. 

Body

The back body panel is worked entirely in the main colour.

Row 5: Sc 6, inc in last st of first leg, inc in first st of second leg, sc 6 (16 sts)

Row 6: Inc, sc 14, inc (18 sts)

Rows 7-10: Sc across (18 sts)

Now we will start the arms.

Row 11: Ch 5, sc 4 along chs, then continue to crochet along previous row, sc 18 (22 sts)

Row 12: Ch 5, sc 4 along chs, then cont along previous row, sc 22 (26 sts)

Row 13: Sc across (26 sts)

Tie off.

Now we will start the head. Turn your work so that the right side of the panel is facing you. Join your yarn into the 5th stitch.

Head

Row 14: Sc 18 (18 sts)

Row 15: Inc twice, sc 14, inc twice (22 sts)

Row 16: Inc, sc 20, inc (24 sts)

Row 17: Inc, sc 22, inc (26 sts)

Rows 18-20: Sc 26 (26 sts)

Row 21: Dec, sc 22, dec (24 sts)

Row 22: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)

Row 23: Dec, sc 18, dec (20 sts)

Rows 24-26: Sc 20 (20 sts)

Row 27: Dec, sc 16, dec (18 sts)

Row 28: Sc 18 (18 sts)

Row 29: Dec, sc 14, dec (16 sts)

Row 30: Dec, sc 12, dec (14 sts)

Do not tie off. Now we will start the first ear.

Row 31: Dec, sc 4 (5 sts)

Rows 32-39: Sc 5 (5 sts)

Row 40: Dec, sc 1, dec (3 sts)

Row 41: Dec all three sts together. (1 st)

Tie off.

With the right side of the panel facing you, rejoin your yarn in the first st of row 30 to start the second ear. Repeat rows 31-41 for second ear and tie off.

Move on to assembly below!

Assembly:

Step 1: Face

The first thing we need to do is stitch the facial features onto the front panel.

First, attach 10mm safety eyes or stitch on happy/sleepy eyes using black crochet thread. I inserted the eyes into stitches so that they were just below the curve of the cheek. Check out the video tutorial in this post on how I stitch happy eyes onto amigurumi.

 


Using your tapestry needle and black crochet thread, stitch on a little upside-down “V” nose between the eyes. Then stitch on the little mouth beneath the nose.

I also opted to add eyebrows to one of the Pocket Buns and cheeks to another. The details are totally up to you!

Lastly, make a little pompom and attach it to the back panel.

Step 2: Body

Time to join! Here’s what you’re working with:

Pocket Bun before assembly

Place the two panels together, matching up all sides.

**Make sure the front is facing you as you crochet around the outside.**

Starting on the left side above the curve of the cheek, begin attaching the panels together by chaining one and single crocheting around the outside of the panels in the main colour.

Crochet down the side and around the arm. (Sc, ch 1, sc) into the same stitch for each of the two corners of the arm/paw to give it a nice rectangular shape. Crocheting around the neck/arm will be tricky because it is a sharp turn, but you can do it! Just take your time and make sure each stitch you make is thoughtfully placed.

Continue crocheting down the side, up the inside of the first leg and then down the inside of the second leg, then back up the other side.

Crochet around the arm; don’t forget to (sc, ch, sc) into the same stitch in each of the corners of the paw.

Stop when you reach the top of the head. Now the only part of your Pocket Bun that will be open are the ears and across the top of the head.

Stuff your Pocket Bun. Use the back of your crochet hook to push stuffing right down into each of the legs. I didn’t add stuffing to the arms because they are very small and don’t really need it.

When you are satisfied, continue crocheting around the first ear. 

Crochet across the two stitches on the top of the head between the ears and stop here for now. Using the back of your crochet hook, push stuffing up into the first ear (you might have to twist your Pocket Bun in weird ways to reach it).

Once the first one is stuffed, crochet around the second ear the same way as the first. Once you get all the way around the ear, stop here. Stuff the second ear the same way you did for the first.

You should now only have a small hole in your Pocket Bun below the ear. Take this opportunity to stuff your Pocket Bun until you are totally satisfied with it (you might be surprised at how much stuffing you use). Use the back of your crochet hook to stuff into the curve of the cheeks and to even out the stuffing across the face and especially below the ears so that there are no empty spots. Keep stuffing until it’s firm and even.

Finally, continue crocheting around and close with a slst to first st and tie off. Poke the yarn tails back inside the piece.

Lastly, for the Pocket Buns with safety eyes, I did some needle sculpting around the eyes to give them a bit more character. Check out my video on how to needle sculpt amigurumi on the Video Tutorial page if you’re not sure how!

That’s it! Add your Pocket Buns to your Pocket Pet Collection! They are seriously addictive and so cute!

Enjoy!

 

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8 thoughts on “Pocket Bunny Free Crochet Pattern

  1. I am so glad I found your blog. I love all your patterns, they are brilliant and they make me happy to make them.

  2. Hi, they are very cute. There will be in the future a pattern for 2D cat (with 4 legs) using the same technique? I would be really happy with it.

  3. Hi i buy this pattern , and i dint understand the “minc” act on the pattern… what shuld i do in all this parts?
    “Minc , M2, Minc” for example…
    Thanx

    1. Hi there,
      Take a look at the sections called “Reading this Pattern” and “Colour Legend”. Those sections explain what the abbreviations mean and how to read them. M = main colour and inc = increase, so “Minc” = an increase done in the main colour, and so on.

      Hope that helps!

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