Pocket Fox Free Crochet Pattern

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Pocket Fox Free Crochet Pattern

Introducing the Pocket Fox! These cute little foxes are a close cousin of the fox we know and love; but much smaller! Here are some facts that you may not know about Pocket Foxes:

  • Their natural habitats are pockets, of course! Any pocket at all will do; big ones, small ones, rectangular, square, pouch pockets, welt pockets, side pockets, you name a pocket, a Pocket Fox will be comfortable there;
  • Their diet consists of the naturally occurring substances of pockets: lint, buttons, coins, pen caps, the occasional paper clip, and the like;
  • Due to evolution, Pocket Foxes do not have tails so as to ensure maximum pocket-living comfort;
  • Pocket Foxes are shy but make great company wherever you go.

Let’s get started! (Or Pin for later!)

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Our little Pocket Foxes are worked flat and then joined together in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns. The pattern is made up of just 2 separate pieces. The finished measurements are approximately 14cm/5.5″ tall and 10cm/4″ wide.

Materials:

**If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE.**

  • 2.75mm hook (I use THESE hooks!);
  • Caron Simply Soft in the following colours:
  • Bernat Premium Yarn in Chocolate Tweed for paws (very small amounts);
  • 9mm safety eyes (optional – you can also stitch the eyes on using crochet thread);
  • Black crochet thread for mouth;
  • Stuffing;
  • Tapestry needle.

The first Pocket Fox I made was a little bigger than the final version. I used a 3.5mm hook and Vanna’s Choice yarn in Terracotta (see the picture below for the size difference!). I decided I wanted the final Pocket Fox to be a bit smaller, so I sized down in my hook to a 2.75mm, however, you could easily use a 3.5mm instead of the 2.75mm if you prefer it. Using a 2.75mm hook when working with worsted weight yarn is admittedly a little more difficult, as the tension will be very tight, but, in my experience, Caron Simply Soft yarns are on the lighter side of worsted. Alternatively, you could use a light weight yarn instead of a worsted.

Stitches and Special Terms (US Terminology):

Ch – Chain

St – Stitch

Sc – Single crochet

Inc – Increase. Work 2 sc in the same st.

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease.

Reading this Pattern:

There is some colour work involved in this pattern. You will want to divide your yarn into separate balls or bobbins and attach a separate ball for each “section” of colour. For example, you will want to add a new ball for the belly section and the fur sections on each side of the body and face so that you can reduce the amount of yarn carries on the back as much as possible.

Carry the yarn on the back of the panels by dropping the working yarn when you switch colours and picking it back up again when you need it in the next row. Always carry the yarn on the wrong side (instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go); this ensures the front of the panel has clear lines and colours without any of the yarn carries showing through.

When switching to a new colour, insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop, then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again when you need it.

Since the whole pattern is worked in sc stitches, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts and used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “M3, W1” means to work the next 3 stitches in the main (fur) colour and the next stitch in white, “Wdec” means to work a regular sc decrease in white, and so on.

Colour Legend:

M – Main

W – White

B – Brown

Front Panel (make 1 panel) with 2.75mm hook:

The panels are worked from the bottom up. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row. First, you will make two separate legs and then join the legs in row 5 below.

Legs

Row 1: In brown, ch 5, sc across (4 sts)

The remaining 3 rows of the legs are worked in the main colour.

Row 2: Switch to main colour, Inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)

Row 3: Sc across (6 sts)

Row 4: Inc, sc 5 (7 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-4 for the second leg. You will want to make sure your yarn carries are on the opposite side for the second leg as they were for the first so that they are inverses of each other (hint: the “inc” of row 4 should be on the outside of both legs; the yarn tails from where you just tied off will be pointing inward on both, toward each other).

Body

Now you have two separate legs, as seen above. In row 5, you will join your yarn in the first st and crochet across both legs, joining them.

Row 5: M6, [M1, W1] in the same st, [W1, M1] in the same st, M6 (16 sts)

Row 6: M6, W4, M6 (16 sts)

Rows 7-8: M5, W6, M5 (16 sts)

Rows 9-10: M4, W8, M4 (16 sts)

Now we will start the arms.

Row 11: In M colour, ch 5, M4 along chs, then cont to crochet along previous row, M3, W10, M3 (20 sts)

Row 12: In M, ch 5, M4 along chs, then cont along previous row, M3, W10, M7 (24 sts)

Row 13: M6, W12, M6 (24 sts)

Tie off.

Now we will start the head. Turn your work so that the back (wrong side) of the panel is facing you. Join your white yarn into the 6th stitch.

Head

Row 14: W14 (14 sts)

Row 15: Winc twice, W10, Winc twice (18 sts)

Row 16: Winc twice, W14, Winc twice (22 sts)

Row 17: Winc, W20, Winc (24 sts)

Row 18: Winc, W22, Winc (26 sts)

Row 19: W26 (26 sts)

Row 20: Wdec, W22, Wdec (24 sts)

Row 21: W24 (24 sts)

Row 22: M1, W10, M2, W10, M1 (24 sts)

Row 23: M2, W8, M4, W8, M2 (24 sts)

Row 24: M3, W6, M6, W6, M3 (24 sts)

Row 25: Mdec, M2, W4, M8, W4, M2, Mdec (22 sts)

Row 26: M4, W2, M10, W2, M4 (22 sts)

Row 27: Mdec, M18, Mdec (20 sts)

Row 28: Mdec, M16, Mdec (18 sts)

Row 29: Minc, M16, Minc (20 sts)

Do not tie off. Now we will start the first ear.

Row 30: M6 (6 sts)

Row 31: Mdec, M2, Mdec (4 sts)

Row 32: M4 (4 sts)

Row 33: Mdec twice (2 sts)

Row 34: M2 (2 sts)

Tie off.

With the front (right side) of the panel facing you, rejoin your yarn in the first st of row 29 to start the second ear. Repeat rows 30-34 for second ear and tie off.

Fox ear instructions

Back Panel (make 1 panel) with 2.75mm hook:

The back body panel is worked nearly exactly the same as the front, except it is worked almost entirely in the main colour and the right/wrong side of the panel will be the opposite as it was for the first panel (this is so that the panels will match up exactly when we are ready to join them with all the yarn tails and carries on the inside).

Legs

Row 1: In brown, ch 5, sc across (4 sts)

Row 2: Switch to main colour, Inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)

Row 3: Sc across (6 sts)

Row 4: Inc, sc 5 (7 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-4 for the second leg. Again, you will want to make sure your yarn carries are on the opposite side for the second leg as they were for the first so that they are inverses of each other (hint: the “inc” of row 4 should be on the outside of both legs; the yarn tails from where you just tied off will be pointing inward on both, toward each other). And remember, the “right” side is now the opposite, so the yarn tails should be facing you as you rejoin your yarn!

Body

The back body panel is worked entirely in the main colour from here onward.

Row 5: Sc 6, inc, inc sc 6 (16 sts)

Rows 6-10: Sc across (16 sts)

Now we will start the arms.

Row 11: Ch 5, sc 4 along chs, then cont to crochet along previous row, sc 16 (20 sts)

Row 12: Ch 5, sc 4 along chs, then cont along previous row, sc 20 (24 sts)

Row 13: Sc across (24 sts)

Tie off.

Now we will start the head. Turn your work so that the right/clean side of the panel is facing you. Join your yarn into the 6th stitch.

Head

Row 14: Sc 14 (14 sts)

Row 15: Inc twice, sc 10, inc twice (18 sts)

Row 16: Inc twice, sc 14, inc twice (22 sts)

Row 17: Inc, sc 20, inc (24 sts)

Row 18: Inc, sc 22, inc (26 sts)

Row 19: Sc across (26 sts)

Row 20: Dec, sc 22, dec (24 sts)

Rows 21-24: Sc across (24 sts)

Row 25: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)

Row 26: Sc across (22 sts)

Row 27: Dec, sc 18, dec (20 sts)

Row 28: Dec, sc 16, dec (18 sts)

Row 29: Inc, sc 16, inc (20 sts)

Do not tie off. Now we will start the first ear.

Row 30: Sc 6 (6 sts)

Row 31: Dec, sc 2, dec (4 sts)

Row 32: Sc across (4 sts)

Row 33: Dec twice (2 sts)

Row 34: Sc 2 (2 sts)

Tie off.

With the wrong side of the panel facing you, rejoin your yarn in the first st of row 29 to start the second ear. Repeat rows 30-34 for second ear and tie off.

Move on to assembly below!

Assembly:

Step 1: Face

The first thing we need to do is stitch the facial features onto the front panel.

Using your tapestry needle and black crochet thread, stitch on a little upside-down triangle nose beneath the two stitches of main colour in the middle of the face. I did this by stitching the “V” shape first, filling it in, and then stitching across the top of the flat part. Then stitch on the little mouth beneath the nose.

Attach 9mm safety eyes or stitch on happy/sleepy eyes using black crochet thread. I inserted the eyes into stitches so that they lined up with the top of the nose.

Step 2: Body

Time to join! Here’s what you’re working with:

Place the two panels together, matching up all sides.

**Make sure the front is facing you as you crochet around the outside.**

Starting on the left side at the top (i.e. on the side of the left ear, labelled “A” in the photo above), begin attaching the panels together by chaining one and single crocheting around the outside of the panels in the main colour.

Crochet down the side and switch colours when you reach the white part of the face. Remember, when you switch colours, you will complete the first part of the last stitch of Colour A, but finish the stitch with Colour B and continue on with Colour B.

You will notice that there is a natural point for the cheek of your Pocket Fox (labelled “B” and “C” in the photo above). To accentuate the point, you will (Sc, ch 2, sc) into the same stitch at the point.

Continue crocheting down the face. Switch back to the main colour when you reach the arm.

[Stand by for a quick inspirational interlude]: Crocheting around the neck/arm will be tricky because it is a sharp turn, but you can do it! Just take your time and make sure each stitch you make is thoughtfully placed; when you get to the assembly stage, it can be tempting to work much faster because you can see the end is in sight. However, assembly is an equally important part for the final look of the piece, so I like to spend a lot of time on the joining stage and making sure that each stitch I make is placed exactly where I want it. Okay, back to regularly scheduled assembly.

(Sc, ch, sc) into the same stitch for each of the two corners of the paw to give the arm a nice rectangular shape.

Continue crocheting down the side. Switch to brown when you reach the bottom paw and then back to the main colour as you crochet up the other side of the first leg and then down the second leg. Switch to brown again for the second paw, then back to the main colour to crochet up the side.

Crochet around the arm; don’t forget to (sc, ch, sc) into the same stitch in each of the corners of the paw.

Switch to white for the face and continue crocheting up the face. Switch back to the main colour where appropriate.

Stop when you reach the top of the ear. Now the only part of your Pocket Fox that will be open is across the top of the head.

Stuff your Pocket Fox. Use the back of your crochet hook to pushing stuffing right down into each of the legs and the arms (to be honest, I didn’t add much stuffing to the arms because they are very small and don’t really need it).

When you are satisfied, continue crocheting around the ear. (Sc 2) into each of the two stitches at the top of the ear. Top up stuffing as you go after every two or three stitches.

Crochet across the top of the head and around the second ear (the one you started with) the same way as the first; i.e. (sc 2) into each st at the top, while continuing to top up stuffing as necessary. Close with a slst to first st and tie off. Poke the yarn tails back inside the piece.

That’s it! Now go make an army of Pocket Foxes! They are seriously addictive; once I started, I couldn’t seem to stop. I have made five so far and now I’m thinking I might make another set in pastel colours…

Here are a couple of Pocket Foxes in their natural habitat!

Enjoy!

 

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42 thoughts on “Pocket Fox Free Crochet Pattern

  1. These are adorable! Can’t wait to finish my current project so I can make a set of these. Thank you for all your amazing patterns and tutorials.

  2. Gorgeous project, my dear! Super cute and clever design. Thank so much for sharing the pattern with all of us. This one is going to my “To Do List”, that’s for sure! And also I’d like to include this project (one picture plus link) in my next “Summer Round-Up post” that I’m going to publish in my blog today. Have a lovely Sunday, dear!

  3. Would love to receive your newsletters/patterns whenever e mailed to members.

    Love the Pocket fox, just cute and small enough project that would warm any age group and tiny enough for small cuddle hands.

    YVONNE DPENHA

    1. Thanks, Yvonne! You can subscribe to receive email updates via the subscription box in the sidebar!

  4. I made this adorable Pocket Fox for a 6 year old little girl that I was getting ready to meet for the first time. I wanted to have a special gift for her. My fox didn’t turn out quite a pretty as yours but I had fun and I am sure I will improve as I make more. What’s really funny is that I got a little carried away and gave my pocket fox a life. She moved around the house and got into a little mischief, mostly because she was so excited to meet her little girl. The little girl fell in love with her and named her Pom Pom. Some of my friends on FB really got into following the little adventures of Pom Pom. What’s fun is that Pom Pom will be going home with the little girl and home is the Netherlands. So of course now Pom Pom has to get a passport. LOL. We hope to continue to see posts regarding Pom Pom and how she is settling into her new life in the Netherlands. Jillian, if you’re reading this I would love it if you would send me an email as I have something I’d like to discuss with you. Thanks so much for posting this pattern.

    1. That is too sweet! I love that Pom Pom is going on so many fun adventures! Also, I just sent you an email. 🙂

    1. Unfortunately, I don’t have a video tutorial just yet. What part are you having trouble with?

  5. Hi there! These are so cute, thank you for sharing the pattern! I’m new to crocheting and have never sewn or embroidered a thing in my life. Do you have any suggestions for a way to learn? I’m not even sure what keywords to Google I’m so inept haha!

    1. How exciting! If you google “learning to crochet for beginners” you will find lots of helpful videos on getting started. The Hopeful Honey blog also has lots of great stitch tutorials for when you get further along with your technique. Happy crocheting!

  6. Gonna try to make these for a fox rescue i know. Seriously, tho, too many ads here. 11 or so in the way of pictures/text

    1. Ads can definitely be a nuisance, but they are what allow me to provide patterns for free. An inexpensive ad-free version can be found in my Etsy shop! 🙂

  7. Thanks a lot for sharing this cute pattern! I tried one in pink and I’d like to do more to make a lively group. Look forward to other new cute patterns. 🙂

  8. I love this pattern it’s so cute but it’s my first time carrying yarn over and I’m having trouble carrying yarn to the next row without it being seen. I’ve managed to do row 5 but now im stuck on how to turn my work and bring the white yarn up to row 6 without been seen, if i bring it up normally I have a tiny white dot between the first and second stitch and I don’t know if this is normal. It’s my first time trying a pattern like this and I’ve only been crocheting a couple of months but I really want to complete this 🙂

    1. Hi Samantha,

      One of the things I recommend when doing colour work in my amigurumi patterns is to make sure you pull your working yarn to the wrong side before dropping it (you will have to do this when the wrong side of the panel is facing you). Everything should be carried on the wrong side of the panel, so that nothing will show on the front when it’s assembled.

      I have a video on changing colours/dropping and carrying yarn in the post for the Tilly the Tortoise pattern (Found here: https://spinayarncrochet.com/tilly-tortoise-free-crochet-pattern/).

      I think that video will help! If you still have questions, please come back and let me know and I will clarify further!

      Jillian

  9. Hi!

    I was wondering what you did with the yarn ends when you switch colors at the end. Do you start with new yarn every time you switch?

    Thanks for the great pattern!

    1. Hi Jaye,

      I use two techniques: (1) I use two or three different balls of yarn and carry them up through the sections of that colour if I can (for example, when there are two distinct “sides” with colour in the middle, like the body colour on each side of a belly patch) and (2) I carry yarn when I can.

      Hope that helps!

  10. HI, Is it possible that you can give the pattern in Duch, it should be a bit easier for me, I am from Belgium.
    Thanks and greetings.Linda.

    1. Hi Linda,

      Unfortunately, my patterns are only available in English at the moment. 🙁 However, please let me know if you have any questions and I will try to help!

  11. My foxes seem fuzzy…where yours look very crisp. I am using the Caron Simply soft, 4/medium. Are yours actually fuzzy and the camera just doesn’t show it? Any ideas/tips?

  12. Hi Jillian,
    I zoomed in on your pictures and can see the same amount of fuzz that I am seeing in my fox, so please disregard my last question.

    Do you have any videos explaining the decrease and how to carry on the other side so it is the inverse of the other panel? The hint to increase on the other the end doesn’t help me much. I am not very experienced!

    By the way, I LOVED your video with Tilley the Tutle where you explained how to carry the yarn and keep your carries on one side! Super simple concept, but a video helps so much! Thank you!

    1. Hi Laura,

      Yes, I find Caron Simply Soft does tend to fuzz a little!

      I don’t have any videos specifically about creating the inverse panels at the moment, but I will add this to my list of future tutorials.

      For the legs of the Pocket Fox, here is what you can do to make it less confusing when trying to figure out which side the yarn carries should be on, etc:

      Make all four legs at once but for the first two, carry the yarn on one side, and for the last two, carry the yarn on the opposite side.

      Now, take 1 leg from each set and place them together. When you lay the legs next to each other (one from each set), lay them out so that the yarn carries are both facing the same way. Now they will be natural inverses of each other. This is similar to when you put your hands on a table in front of you, your pinky fingers are both on the ends, the “inc” of each leg in Row 4 will be on the ends (i.e. the opposite end of the row from where you tied off). If the “inc” sts *aren’t* on the end when you lay them next to each other, simply switch their positions (move the left leg to the right and vice versa).

      Does that make sense? Hopefully I haven’t muddled things even more!

    1. It means to work a sc increase in white. Take a look at the “Reading this Pattern” and the Colour Legend sections to get more details on the abbreviations.

  13. I am done with my first one! Thank you! My daughter LOVES her new fox! Up until now I’ve only done simple blankets!

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