Cygnet Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

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Cygnet Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

This post is Part 2 of 2 of my Swan and Baby Cygnet pattern set. To check out the Momma Swan, check out this post

Also, if you’re interested in hearing the inspiration for these patterns, as well as why I’m kinda, super proud of them, check out the intro to that post as well. 

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. This pattern has just two separate pieces, with no colour-work and no sewing (!!!).

The finished measurements are approximately 18cm/7″ high.

Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)

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If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE or through the “Shop It” button above!

Materials:

Terms and Stitches:

Ch – Chain

Slst – Slip stitch

Sc – Single crochet 

Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase.

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease.

Hdc – Half double crochet

Reading this Pattern:

The pattern is worked from the bottom up. The beak is crocheted onto each panel separately before joining the two panels together.

Body:

Using a 3.25mm hook and grey yarn. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row. 

Row 1: Ch 23, starting in 2nd ch from hook sc 22 (22 sts)

Row 2: Inc, sc 19, inc twice (25 sts)

Row 3: Inc, sc 23, inc (27 sts)

Row 4: Inc, sc 24, inc twice (30 sts)

Row 5: Inc, sc 29 (31 sts)

Row 6: Inc, sc 29, inc (33 sts)

Row 7: Inc, sc 32 (34 sts)

Row 8: Sc across (34 sts)

Row 9: Inc, sc 31, dec (34 sts)

Row 10: Sc across (34 sts)

Row 11: Slst 3, sc 29, dec (33 sts)

In the next row, we will crochet only part way across the previous row before chaining and turning. 

Row 12: Sc 28, dec (29 sts)

Row 13: Dec, sc 25, dec (27 sts)

Now we will start the neck. You will crochet only part way across the previous row before chaining and turning.

Row 14: Dec, sc 7 (8 sts)

Row 15: Sc 6, dec (7 sts)

Row 16: Dec, sc 4, inc (7 sts)

Row 17: Inc, sc 6 (8 sts)

Row 18: Dec, sc 6 (7 sts)

Row 19: Sc 5, dec (6 sts)

Row 20: Dec, sc 3, inc (6 sts)

Row 21: Sc 4, dec (5 sts)

Rows 22-23: Sc across (5 sts)

Tie off.

Head:

With 3.25mm hook and grey yarn. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

Row 1: Ch 8, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 7 (7 sts)

Row 2: Inc, sc 5, inc (9 sts)

Row 3: Inc, sc 8 (10 sts)

In the next row, we will join both the head and neck together. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 4: Inc, sc 8, inc, continue across neck, sc 5 (17 sts)

Rows 5-7: Sc across (17 sts)

Row 8: Sc 15, dec (16 sts)

Row 9: Sc across (16 sts)

Row 10: Dec, sc 12, dec (14 sts)

Row 11: Sc 12, dec (13 sts)

Row 12: Dec, sc 9, dec (11 sts)

Row 13: Dec twice, sc 5, dec (8 sts)

Row 14: Dec four times (4 sts).

Tie off. 

Finish Body:

Now we are going to go back and finish the body (we are starting at row 14 because that’s where we left off before we started the neck). With 3.25mm hook and grey yarn, with the head on the right, skip 1 stitch next to the neck and join yarn in the next st. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

Row 14: Sc 15, dec (16 sts)

Row 15: Dec, sc 10, dec twice (13 stS)

Row 16: Dec twice, sc 5, dec twice (9 sts)

Row 17: Dec twice, sc 1, dec twice (5 sts)

Tie off. 

Beak:

With 3.25mm hook and black yarn, join your yarn to a stitch toward the bottom of the head.

Cygnet Beak

Row 1: Sc 4 (4 sts)

Row 2: Sc across (4 sts)

Row 3: Sc 2, dec (3 sts)

Row 4: Dec, sc 1 (2 sts)

Row 5: Sc 1 (leave next st unworked) (1 st)

Tie off.

Repeat all of the above for the back panel. When crocheting the beak onto the back panel, make sure you start in the SAME stitch, so that the panels will match up perfectly.

Move on to assembly below!

Assembly:

Step 1: Face 

The first thing we need to do is insert the 12mm eye. 

Feel free to stitch on a sleepy or happy eye instead, or to add a pink stitch for a cheek.

Step 2: Body, 

These are the pieces you’ll have at this step:

Cygnet panels

Place the two panels together matching up all sides. Make sure the front is facing you as you crochet around.

Starting on the left side at the top of the head, begin attaching the panels together. Insert your hook into both panels, chain 1, and then single crochet around the outside of the panels starting in grey.

When crocheting around, try to crochet with a looser tension than usual. Crocheting loosely, especially around the curved areas, helps keep all the edges curved. 

Switch to black where appropriate for the beak [Sc, ch 1, sc] in the tip of the beak. Switch back to grey after the beak.

Crochet down and across the bottom and up to the tail. [Sc, ch 1, sc] in the tip of the tail.

Start stuffing the body. 

Continue crocheting across the top of the body. Make sure the body is fully stuffed to your satisfaction before you begin crocheting up the neck. 

Crochet up the neck. Stop after every three to four stitches to stuff the neck. Crochet up around the head, stuffing as you go. Ensure the beak is stuffed as well!

Once the head and neck is fully stuffed, close with a slst and tie off. Poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.

Finish off the piece by needle sculpting the eye to give some character and you’re done! Here’s how to needle sculpt:

  1. With a piece of grey yarn and your tapestry needle, insert into a st behind the eye and out a stitch on the back.
  2. Reattach your tapestry needle to the yarn still hanging from the front of the eye. Insert your needle into a different stitch behind the eye and out the SAME stitch in the back of the head as the other yarn tail.
  3. Pull both yarn tails to sculpt the face.
  4. When satisfied, tie a knot to secure and poke back inside.

You’re done!

 

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6 thoughts on “Cygnet Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

  1. Starting of pattern says “with yellow” but nowhere is there yellow on this item. I was VERY confused for a few moments. Thought you might want to correct this. Thanks for your wonderful patterns! Enjoy them so much!!

  2. Good morning from the Netherlands. I was reading the pattern for the Cygnet and I think I saw a mistake, in the pattern /body you wrote with a 3.25mm hook and YELLOW. I may be wrong but I can’t find anywhere that I should change to grey and in the material list no yellow yarn in given either. And then one more thing, If you want to convert the crochet hooks to European sizes…….. best use 3 or 3.5mm.
    I must admit that in my 68 years I have never seen a pattern for 3.25mm. Hope you don’t mind, me pointing this out.

    1. Thank you, I have fixed the error now! Apologies for the confusion.

      With respect to hook size, gauge is not particularly important in amigurumi, so feel free to use whatever size you prefer.

  3. Every pattern you create is amazing and beautiful and unique! I LOVE LOVE LOVE your work. You are an inspiration! <3

    1. Aw, thank you so much, Diana! That is too sweet and I’m so glad you’re enjoying the patterns!

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