Buffalo Plaid Ornament Free Crochet Pattern

I’m back with another crochet ornament!

Similar to my Penguin Ornament and my Baby Yoda ornament, this Buffalo Plaid Ornament is an adaption that uses the same base pattern of those ornaments (with still another one to come, if I don’t run out of time before Christmas gets here!)

Unlike the Baby Yoda ornament, this one has a lot of colourwork, but since there are no accessories to add (like facial features, ears, etc), it works up very quickly! I had this one whipped up within an hour.

The colourwork is a bit finicky for the first four or five rows, but after that it’s smooth sailing. Be sure to read the “Reading this Pattern” section for more details on how to work the colourwork.

The Details

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. This Buffalo Plaid Ornament has just 2 separate pieces!

The finished measurements are approximately 9.5cm/3.75″ across.

Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)

If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE or through the “Shop It” button above!

Materials:

(Affiliate links coming at you!)

• 3.25mm hook for main (I use THESE hooks!);
• Red Heart Super Saver in Cherry Red;
• Red Heart Super Saver in Black;
• Loops & Threads Impeccable in Burgundy;
• Stuffing;
• Tapestry needle.

Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:

Everything is worked in single crochet stitches, unless otherwise specified. So, in order to indicate the colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. Here are some examples:

• “Binc” means to work a sc increase in black yarn.
• “Br3, R3” means to work the next 3 sc in Burgundy and the next 3 sc in Red.
• “Bdec, R3, Bdec” means to work a regular sc decrease in black, then work the next 3 stitches in Red, then work another sc decrease in black.

Due to the colour-changes, you can will have several balls of yarn attached to your project at once. For example, keep your red, black and Burgundy skeins attached at all time and simply to carry the yarn across the back of the panel when you need it (check out the photo below in the assembly section to see the back of my panels with all the yarn carries!)

When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour X and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour Y, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour Y. Drop your working yarn in Colour X and continue with Colour Y. You will pick your Colour X working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.

Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel! This will be different depending on whether you’re working an odd or even row. So, for the front panel, whenever you are working an odd-numbered row (row 1, 3, 5, etc), the right side of your panel will be facing you. When you’re working an even-numbered row, the wrong side will be facing you.

Colour legend:

B – Black

Br – Burgundy

R – Red

Terms and Stitches:

Ch – Chain

Slst – Slip stitch

Sc – Single Crochet

Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease

Pattern

Panels (make 2):

You will make 2 panels using a 3.25mm hook. The panels are worked from the bottom up. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

Row 1: Starting in black, ch 8, Br2, B3, Br2 (7 sts)

Row 2: [Br1, R1] in first st, Rinc, Br3, Rinc, [R1, Br1] in last st (11 sts)

Row 3: Brinc, [Br1, R1] in same st, R2, Br3, R2, [R1, Br1] in same st, Brinc (15 sts)

Row 4: [R1, Br1] in first st, Br2, R3, Br3, R3, Br2, [Br1, R1] in last st (17 sts)

Row 5: Brinc, B3, Br3, B3, Br3, B3, Brinc (19 sts)

Row 6: Br2, B3, Br3, B3, Br3, B3, Br2 (19 sts)

Row 7: Brinc, Br1, B3, Br3, B3, Br3, B3, Br1, Brinc (21 sts)

Rows 8-10: R3, Br3, R3, Br3, R3, Br3, R3 (21 sts)

Rows 11-13: Br3, B3, Br3, B3, Br3, B3, Br3 (21 sts)

Row 14: R3, Br3, R3, Br3, R3, Br3, R3 (21 sts)

Row 15: Rdec, R1, Br3, R3, Br3, R3, Br3, R1, Rdec (19 sts)

Row 16: R2, Br3, R3, Br3, R3, Br3, R2 (19 sts)

Row 17: Brdec, B3, Br3, B3, Br3, B3, Brdec (17 sts)

Row 18: Bdec, B2, Br3, B3, Br3, B2, Bdec (15 sts)

Row 19: Bdec, Brdec, Br2, B3, Br2, Brdec, Bdec (11 sts)

Row 20: Rdec twice, Br3, Rdec twice (7 sts)

Row 21: Rdec, Br3, Rdec (5 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-21 for back panel.

Assembly:

Here are the pieces you should now have at this step (and take a look at the carries on the back of my panels! Nobody said the back had to be pretty.)

Place the two panels together, matching up all stitches and colours.

Starting on the left side at the top, begin attaching the panels together by single crocheting around the outside of the panels.

Be sure to crochet loosely around so that the edge keeps its nice curve!

You will need to change colours as you crochet around to accommodate for the different blocks of colour around the edges. The easiest way to do this is to tuck your working yarn down between the panels before joining your new yarn to change colours. This way, when you need the first colour again, you can pick it up from inside the panels. You won’t have to cut and rejoin your yarn each time.

Continue single crocheting until you reach the top on the other side. Stuff your ornament!

Continue crocheting across the top. Top up stuffing as you go as necessary. Use the back of your crochet hook to even out the stuffing and keep the shape nice and round.

When you are satisfied with the stuffing, close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece. Add the loop for hanging and you’re done!

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