Totoro Free Crochet Pattern


Totoro Free Crochet Pattern

I watched the movie My Neighbor Totoro for the first time only a couple of years ago and I am so glad I did. It is such a sweet movie with really unique characters! It’s impossible not to fall in love with the giant, lovable Totoro.

I know there are a few Totoro crochet patterns out there, but there are none done in the Ragdoll style that I could find, so I thought it would be a fun challenge to design it, in addition to being a fun option for anyone wanting to make a Totoro amigurumi.

Luckily, with only 2 panels worked in bulky yarn, this ami is deceptively simple and quick to work up (which is just how I like my amigurumi; easy to make but with a big visual impact!)

The Details

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as all my patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. As noted, this amigurumi has just 2 (!!) separate panels, not including the leaf and the felt for the eyes.

This pattern incorporates the tapestry crochet technique and has a little bit of colour-work involved so please be sure to read the “Reading this Pattern” section!

The finished measurements are approximately 23cm/9″ from the top of his ears to the bottom.

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Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:

Everything is worked in single crochet stitches, unless otherwise specified. So, in order to indicate the colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. Here are some examples:

  • “Ginc” means to work a sc increase in grey yarn.
  • “G2, C14” means to work the next 2 sc in grey and the next 14 sc in cream.
  • “Gdec, C8, Gdec” means to work a regular sc decrease in grey, then work the next 8 stitches in cream, then work another sc decrease in grey.

Due to the colour-changes, you will have three balls of yarn attached to your project at once; two grey (one on each side) and one cream. This prevents you from having to carry your yarn.

When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour X and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour Y, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour Y. Drop your working yarn in Colour X and continue with Colour Y. You will pick your Colour X working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.

Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel! This will be different depending on whether you’re working an odd or even row. So, for the front panel, whenever you are working an odd-numbered row (row 1, 3, 5, etc), the right side of your panel will be facing you. When you’re working an even-numbered row, the wrong side will be facing you.

Colour legend:

G – Grey

C – Cream

Terms and Stitches:

Ch – Chain

Slst – Slip stitch

Sc – Single Crochet (again, in rows with colour changes, sc stitches will be indicated with the Colour Legend letter instead of “sc”)

Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease

Sc3tog – Single crochet 3 together. Work a decrease across 3 stitches.

Hdc – Half double crochet

Dc – Double crochet


Front Body Panel:

Make one panel using a 4mm hook. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row unless specified otherwise. Start with grey.

Row 1: Ch 18, starting in second ch from hook, sc across in grey (17 sts)

Row 2: Gdec, G3, C7, G3, Gdec (15 sts)

Row 3: Ginc twice, C11, Ginc twice (19 sts)

Row 4: Ginc, G2, C13, G2, Ginc (21 sts)

Row 5: G3, C15, G3 (21 sts)

Row 6: G2, C17, G2 (21 sts)

Row 7: Ginc, G1, C17, G1, Ginc (23 sts)

Rows 8-9: G2, C19, G2 (23 sts)

Row 10: Ginc, G1, C19, G1, Ginc (25 sts)

Row 11: Ginc, G1, C21, G1, Ginc (27 sts)

Rows 12-14: G3, C21, G3 (27 sts)

Rows 15-16: G4, C19, G4 (27 sts)

Row 17: Gdec, G3, C17, G3, Gdec (25 sts)

Row 18: G5, C15, G5 (25 sts)

Row 19: Gdec, G3, C15, G3, Gdec (23 sts)

Row 20: G5, C13, G5 (23 sts)

Row 21: G7, C9, G7 (23 sts)

All remaining rows are worked entirely in grey.

Row 22: Dec, sc 19, dec (21 sts)

Row 23: Sc in each st across (21 sts)

Row 24: Dec, sc 17, dec (19 sts)

Row 25: Sc in each st across (19 sts)

Row 26: Dec, sc 15, dec (17 sts)

Row 27: Dec, sc 13, dec (15 sts)

Row 28: Sc in each st across (15 sts)

Row 29: Dec, sc 11, dec (13 sts)

Row 30: Dec, sc 9, dec (11 sts)

Row 31: Dec twice, sc 3, dec twice (7 sts)

Tie off.

Back Body Panel:

The back body panel is worked exactly the same as the front, except there is zero colour-work. The panel is worked entirely in grey. Here are those stitch counts again without the colour-work!

Make one panel using a 4mm hook and grey yarn. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row unless specified otherwise.

Row 1: Ch 18, starting in second ch from hook, sc across in grey (17 sts)

Row 2: Dec, sc 13, dec (15 sts)

Row 3: Inc twice, sc 11, inc twice (19 sts)

Row 4: Inc, sc 17, inc (21 sts)

Rows 5-6: Sc in each st across (21 sts)

Row 7: Inc, sc 19, inc (23 sts)

Rows 8-9: Sc in each st across (23 sts)

Row 10: Inc, sc 21, inc (25 sts)

Row 11: Inc, sc 23, inc (27 sts)

Rows 12-16: Sc in each st across (27 sts)

Row 17: Dec, sc 23, dec (25 sts)

Row 18: Sc in each st across (25 sts)

Row 19: Dec, sc 21, dec (23 sts)

Rows 20-21: Sc in each st across (23 sts)

Row 22: Dec, sc 19, dec (21 sts)

Row 23: Sc in each st across (21 sts)

Row 24: Dec, sc 17, dec (19 sts)

Row 25: Sc in each st across (19 sts)

Row 26: Dec, sc 15, dec (17 sts)

Row 27: Dec, sc 13, dec (15 sts)

Row 28: Sc in each st across (15 sts)

Row 29: Dec, sc 11, dec (13 sts)

Row 30: Dec, sc 9, dec (11 sts)

Row 31: Dec twice, sc 3, dec twice (7 sts)

Tie off.


Using a 4mm hook and grey yarn, rejoin your yarn on the front panel in the space next to the first st of Row 31. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

Row 1: 1 sc (1 sts)

Row 2: 3sc into the same st (3 sts)

Row 3: Inc, sc 1, inc (5 sts)

Row 4: Sc in each st across (5 sts)

Row 5: Dec, sc 1, dec (3 sts)

Row 6: Sc in each st across (3 sts)

Row 7: Sc3tog (1 st)

Row 8: Sc 1 (1 st)

Tie off.

Rejoin your yarn into the space next to the last st of Row 31 and repeat rows 1-8 above for the second ear. Repeat for back panel.


Using 3.25mm hook and green yarn. The leaf is worked in the round around a starting chain, so you will work across the chain as usual, then turn it and continue working on the opposite side of the chain. I recommend using a stitch marker to mark the first st of each round.

Rnd 1: Ch 7, starting in second ch from hook, sc 2, hdc 2, dc, 6dc into the last ch, continue on opposite side of chain: dc, hdc 2, sc, 3sc into last st. (18 sts) Do not join; continue working in continuous rounds.

Rnd 2: Sc 2, hdc 3, dc, 2dc into each of the next 4 sts, dc, hdc 3, sc 3, 3sc into last st (24 sts).

Slst to first st and tie off. Complete rounds 1 and 2 for the second panel.

Place both panels together so that all stitches are lined up and matching and single crochet around the entire piece to join. You can start anywhere on the leaf to join the panels, but when you get to the wider end, you will want to work 5 increases along the back so that the leaf remains flat. (Sc, ch 1, sc) into the tip of the leaf. Do not stuff. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Move on to final assembly below!


Step 1: Face

First, we need to attach and stitch on our facial features to the front panel.

First, using grey yarn and a tapestry needle, stitch on the little triangle shapes onto Totoro’s belly. Start in the third cream row down from the top and count in from each side until you have found the middle stitch in that row. Stitch on the first triangle here (each of my triangle shapes span 3 sts). Skip 4 stitches from the peak of the triangle on each side and stitch the other two triangles (there are 2 stitches between the bottom of each triangle).

Repeat for the second set of triangle shapes. The second row will have 4 triangles, so make sure they are staggered with the top row.

Next, using black yarn, count 4 rows up from the top of the belly and make a stitch in the middle of the panel spanning 4 stitches across. This is the top of the nose. Make two more diagonal stitches to create an upside down triangle and fill it in with the black yarn until no grey is showing.

Next, cut two small ovals from white felt. My ovals measured 17mm wide by 22mm long. Fold the ovals over (not quite in half) and make a small snip toward one end to create a hole for the safety eye to go into.

Insert 10mm safety eyes into each felt oval, then insert them onto the front panel on either side of the nose.

Finally, using white sewing needle and thread, stitch down the white felt ovals by stitching around the edges.

Step 2: Body

Here are the pieces you should now have at this step (plus the leaf, not pictured!)


Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides.

Make sure the front is facing you as you crochet around the outside.

Starting on the left side, at the top of the head under the ear, begin attaching the panels together by single crocheting around the outside of the panels in grey.

Crochet most of the way down the body until you get to the bump of Totoro’s arm. Make 3sc all into the same st at the arm (this will make it rounder and stand out more).

Continue crocheting down the body.

(Sc, ch 1, sc) into each of the bottom corners.

Continue crocheting around the panels. Stop about halfway up the other side of the body (don’t forget to sc 3 into the arm bump!) and stuff, being sure to push the stuffing down into the bottom corners.

Continue crocheting up the side, stopping at the top of the head, under the ear. Continue stuffing.

Crochet up and around the ear. (Sc, ch 1, sc) into the tip of the ear. Stuff the ear.

Continue to crochet across the top of the head, topping up stuffing as you go. Be sure to push the stuffing up into the top of the head.

Crochet up and around second ear. (Sc, ch 1, sc) into the tip. Top up stuffing.

When you are satisfied with the stuffing, close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.

Stitch the leaf to the top of Totoro’s head and you’re done!

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9 thoughts on “Totoro Free Crochet Pattern

  1. Hi! I’m new at crocheting and I was wondering if it would be possible to make it with only one bundle of grey yarn. Will I have to fasten off every time I change colors or could I just take the yarn to the other side?

    1. Hi Rosana,
      I do not fasten off for colour changes. If you are working with just one skein of yarn, I would recommend splitting it into two equal smaller balls and have them both attached at the same time.

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