I’ve always found that hand-crafted crochet ornaments have such a beautiful charm about them. There are so many possibilities; from delicate crocheted angels and snowflakes, colourful crocheted baubles, rustic trees and stars, to cute and cheerful little snowmen! You name it, you can create a crocheted ornament to perfectly suit your holiday decor.
Every year I crochet ornaments to give to friends at Christmas (hopefully they’re not getting tired of them yet! Lol). This year, instead of making the same ornament for everyone, I decided to branch out and design a few different ones to gift. The first one is this little snowman ornament! He’s wearing a scarf and earmuffs to keep out that winter chill, which also makes this guy super customizable. You can make him as bright and cheerful or festive as you want by changing up the colour of his accessories.
As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as our Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. This guy has just three pieces. There is some colour-work involved as well.
I used quite a small hook for this one; 1.5mm. I do recommend you use a 1.5mm hook as well or only slightly bigger (no more than 2.0mm), or else your snowman may be too big to be used as an ornament (although, I’m suddenly imagining him made with Bernat Blanket yarn and a giant hook for the squishiest snowman pillow ever?! Someone please do this!)
Okay, let’s get started! Here’s what I used:
**If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE.**
- 1.5mm hook;
- Fine weight or Light weight yarn in white, purple and orange (I used a generic cotton yarn from a local yarn store which is, unfortunately, not widely available);
- Light weight yarn in pink for the cheeks;
- Black crochet thread for mouth;
- 8mm Safety Eyes;
- Tapestry needle;
- Ornament hook (optional).
Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:
Everything is worked in single crochet stitches. So, in order to indicate the colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in any lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “Pdec” means to work a sc decrease in purple yarn. “P4, W1” means to work the next 4 sc in purple and the next 1 sc in white, and so on.
Due to the colour-changes, you will want to have at least two balls of yarn attached to your project at once. For example, I opted to use one for each side of the earmuffs. I did this by taking one skein of yarn and separating it into a couple of smaller balls. This cuts down significantly on having to carry your yarn.
The bonus part of the colour-changes in an amigurumi is that you don’t have to worry about what the back of your panels look like! This is why I carry my yarn on the back instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go. It prevents any colours from bleeding through where they shouldn’t. As long as you always carry your yarn on the back of your panel, you won’t have to weave in any ends and you’ll have a beautiful smooth front with clear lines and colours.
When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.
*Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel!* So, for example, when you are working on a row where the wrong side of the panel is facing you, you will have to make a conscious effort to pull your yarn toward you to the wrong side of the panel when dropping your yarn during a colour-change. This is because it will naturally drop to the side furthest away from you if you don’t. It doesn’t matter which side you choose as your “right” or “wrong” side, since the stitches look the same (unlike when working in the round), just as long as you’re consistent in carrying your yarn! For your back panel, your “right” and “wrong” sides will be the opposite from the front panel, in order to keep the panels matching and keep all the ends facing the inside.
W – White
P – Purple
Body (make 2 panels) starting in Purple:
*Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row*
Row 1: Ch 13, sc across (12 sts)
Rows 2-4: Sc across (12 sts)
Now we will start the snowman’s head. Join white yarn. Rows 5-8 are worked entirely in white.
Row 5: In BLO, inc, sc 10, inc (14 sts)
Row 6: Inc, sc 12, inc (16 sts)
Row 7: Inc, sc 14, inc (18 sts)
Row 8: Sc across (18 sts)
Now we will start the earmuffs and start incorporating the colour-work.
Row 9: In purple, ch 3, P2 along chs, now continue along previous row Winc, W16, Winc (22 sts)
Row 10: In purple, ch 3, Pinc in second ch from hook, P1 in next ch, then continue along previous row W20, P1, Pinc (26 sts)
Row 11: Pinc, P2, W20, P2, Pinc (28 sts)
Rows 12-14: P4, W20, P4, (28 sts)
Row 15: Pdec, P3, W18, P3, Pdec (26 sts)
Row 16: Pdec, P2, W18, P2, Pdec (24 sts)
Tie off. Turn your work. You will now rejoin your purple yarn in the third stitch of the row as seen below:
Row 17: P2, W16, P2 (20 sts)
Row 18: Pdec, P1, W14, P1, Pdec (18 sts)
Row 19: Pdec, P1, W1, Whdc 2, Wdc 6, Whdc 2, W1, P1, Pdec (16 sts)
Rows 20 and 21 are completed entirely in purple.
Row 20: Dec, sc 12, dec (14 sts)
Row 21: Dec, sc 10, dec (12 sts)
Tie off. Repeat rows 1-21 for the back panel, except you do not need to work Row 5 in the BLO; just work the row normally. Set aside for assembly later.
Nose (make 1) in Orange:
Row 1: Ch 6, slst in second ch from hook, sc, hdc 2, dc (5 sts)
Tie off. Set aside for assembly later.
Scarf (make 1) in Purple:
Row 1: Ch 5, sc across (4 sts)
Rows 2-10: Sc across (4 sts)
Tie off. Add fringe to the end of the scarf by taking a length of yarn, folding it in half and pulling the loop through a stitch on the last row. Weave the ends of the length of yarn through the loop and pull tight. Repeat for remaining 3 sts of the last row. Trim the fringe so that it’s all the same length.
Step 1: Eyes, Nose, Mouth, and Cheeks
First, we need to attach all of our facial features to the front panel.
The first thing I did was stitch the nose on in the middle of the front panel.
Next, insert 8mm safety eyes on each side of the nose and then stitch on cheeks below each eye using pink yarn.
Finally, stitch on the mouth using black crochet thread.
Step 2: Body
Okay, here are all the pieces you should now have at this step.
Cut off a length of purple yarn, about 30/12″ long and set aside for now.
Place the two panels together, matching up all sides and colours.
**Make sure the front of your Snowman is facing you as you crochet around the outside.**
Starting on the left side, begin attaching the panels together by chaining one and single crocheting around the outside of the panels, starting in purple.
Crochet all the way down and around your snowman. You will need to switch to white yarn when you get to the face, and back to purple again when you get to the scarf.
Crochet along the bottom of the scarf and then stop. Pull up a loop and leave this for now.
With your tapestry needle and the length of yarn you set aside earlier, attach the scarf piece by placing in between the panels and sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the scarf and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot and hide the yarn tails between the panels.
Continue crocheting around. When you get to the scarf section, you can simply crochet in the front panel only since this portion is already sewn shut.
Stop when you reach the top of the earmuff. Stuff your snowman. Use the back of your crochet hook to push the stuffing into the earmuff sections if you need to.
Now, picking up where you left off, continue single crocheting around the outside. Top up stuffing as you go, if necessary.
Close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.
Attach a loop of yarn or an ornament hook at the top and you’re done!
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