Shark Pillow Free Crochet Pattern


Shark Pillow Free Crochet Pattern

It’s that time again! SHARK WEEK!

Are you a big Shark Week fan? Shark Week this year kicks off on July 22 and is actually the 30th installment of the jawesome week that we know and love. Last year, I marked the occasion with this Hammerhead Shark pattern.

This Shark Pillow is made with Bernat Blanket yarn making it giant and (counter-intuitively) super cuddly! It would make the perfect body pillow for your shark-loving kiddo, friend or family member (or for you! Treat yo’ self!)

Of course, you could make this with a worsted weight yarn and make a smaller, perfectly jawesome version as an accent cushion, cuddler or toy.

Let’s get started! (Or Pin for later!)

Pin it

Our toothy fella is worked flat and then joined together in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns. The pattern is made up of 6 separate pieces. The finished measurements are approximately 58cm/23″ tall and 43cm/17″ across at its widest point.


**If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE.**

  • 6.0mm hook (We’re going BIG with this one, friends!) (Also, I use THESE hooks!);
  • Bernat Blanket Yarn in the following colours:
    • Dark Grey (300g);
    • White (approx 150g);
    • Teal Zeal (300g) (This skein contains BOTH blue shades that you will need.)
    • Carnations (approx 50g) (I used the third darkest pink for the mouth, or you can buy it separately in Pixie Pink);
    • Rain Glow (approx 50g) (I used only the red from this skein for the mouth because red wasn’t available in my local store but you can get Bernat Blanket in red here);
  • 3.5mm hook for teeth;
  • Bernat Super Value in White for teeth;
  • 12mm safety eyes;
  • Stuffing;
  • Tapestry needle.

Stitches and Special Terms (US Terminology):

Ch – Chain

Slst – Slip stitch

Sc – Single crochet

Hdc – Half double crocht

Dc – Double crochet

Inc – Increase. Work 2 sc in the same st.

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease.

A Note on Yarn:

I used a sort of mish-mash of skeins to get all the colours I needed since my local Michael’s did not have individual skeins of Bernat Blanket in red, pink and teals. If you are able to get the individual skeins, there will definitely be less leftover yarn than if you go with the striping yarn, so that’s probably the better route.

In my case, I bought Bernat Blanket in Teal Zeal, which is a striping yarn and contained both of the blue/teal colours I wanted to use, so I bought one skein and then separated the entire skein into the individual colours I needed. I put the colours I wasn’t using aside for use in a future project. I did the same thing with the Carnations and Rain Glow colourways; I simply bought one skein of each and snipped out the colours I needed from each (dark pink and red for the mouth).

Three skeins of Bernat Blanket Yarn

Reading this Pattern:

There is a fair amount of colour work involved in this pattern. You will want to divide your yarn into separate balls or bobbins and attach a separate ball for each “section” of colour. For example, for the waves, there are three distinct peaks, so you will want to add a new ball for each wave so that you can reduce the amount of yarn carries on the back as much as possible (since this yarn is so bulky already, we want to avoid the extra bulk on the back), as well as a separate ball of white, for each section in-between the waves, for example, and so on.

When you do carry yarn from one row to the next, simply carry it on the back of the panels by dropping the working yarn when you switch colours and picking it back up again when you need it in the next row. Always carry the yarn on the wrong side (instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go); this ensures the front of the panel has clear lines and colours without any of the yarn carries showing through.

When switching to a new colour, insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop, then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again when you need it.

Since the whole pattern is worked in sc stitches, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts and used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “P3, W1” means to work the next 3 stitches in pink and the next stitch in white, “Wdec” means to work a regular sc decrease in white, and so on.

Colour Legend:

L – Light Blue

D – Dark Blue

G – Grey

W – White

P- Pink

R – Red

Front Body (make 1 panel) with 6.00mm hook:

The panels are worked from the bottom up. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row. Start in dark blue.

Row 1: In dark blue, chain 49, sc across (48 sts)

Row 2: L3, D10, L5, D11, L6, D10, L3 (48 sts)

Row 3: L5, D6, L10, D7, L9, D6, L5 (48 sts)

Row 4: L6, D3, L13, D3, L14, D3, L6 (48 sts)

Row 5: L7, D1, L16, D1, L15, D1, L7 (48 sts)

Row 6: L4, W7, L9, W7, L10, W7, L4 (48 sts)

Row 7: L2, W11, L6, W11, L5, W11, L2 (48 sts)

Row 8: L1, W13, L3, W13, L3, W14, L1 (48 sts)

Row 9: L1, W5, R3, W7, L1, W15, L1, W6, R3, W5, L1 (48 sts)

Row 10: W5, R2, P1, R2, W28, R2, P1, R2, W5 (48 sts)

Row 11: W5, R1, P3, R2, W26, R2, P3, R1, W5 (48 sts)

Row 12: Wdec, W3, R1, P4, R2, W24, R2, P4, R1, W3, Wdec (46 sts)

Row 13: W3, R2, P5, R1, W24, R1, P5, R2, W3 (46 sts)

Row 14: W3, R1, P6, R2, W22, R2, P6, R1, W3 (46 sts)

Row 15: W3, R1, P7, R2, W20, R2, P7, R1, W3 (46 sts)

Row 16: Wdec, W1, R1, P8, R2, W18, R2, P8, R1, W1, Wdec (44 sts)

Row 17: W2, R1, P9, R1, W18, R1, P9, R1, W2 (44 sts)

Row 18: W2, R1, P9, R2, W16, R2, P9, R1, W2 (44 sts)

Row 19: W2, R2, P9, R2, W14, R2, P9, R2, W2 (44 sts)

Row 20: Wdec, W1, R1, P10, R2, W12, R2, P10, R1, W1, Wdec (42 sts)

Row 21: W2, R2, P10, R2, W10, R2, P10, R2, W2 (42 sts)

Row 22: W3, R1, P11, R3, W6, R3, P11, R1, W3 (42 sts)

Row 23: W3, R2, P12, R3, W2, R3, P12, R2, W3 (42 sts)

Row 24: Wdec, W2, R1, P14, R4, P14, R1, W2, Wdec (40 sts)

Row 25: W3, R2, P30, R2, W3 (40 sts)

Row 26: W4, R1, P30, R1, W4 (40 sts)

Row 27: Wdec, W2, R2, P28, R2, W2, Wdec (38 sts)

Row 28: W4, R1, P28, R1, W4 (38 sts)

Row 29: Wdec, W2, R2, P26, R2, W2, Wdec (36 sts)

Row 30: G1, W3, R1, P26, R1, W3, G1 (36 sts)

Row 31: G2, W2, R3, P22, R3, W2, G2 (36 sts)

Row 32: Gdec, G1, W3, R1, P22, R1, W3, G1, Gdec (34 sts)

Row 33: G3, W2, R3, P18, R3, W2, G3 (34 sts)

Row 34: Gdec, G2, W3, R2, P16, R2, W3, G2, Gdec (32 sts)

Row 35: G4, W3, R3, P12, R3, W3, G4 (32 sts)

Row 36: Gdec, G3, W4, R3, P8, R3, W4, G3, Gdec (30 sts)

Row 37: G5, W5, R10, W5, G5 (30 sts)

Row 38: Gdec, G4, W18, G4, Gdec (28 sts)

Row 39: G6, W16, G6 (28 sts)

Row 40: Gdec, G6, W12, G6, Gdec (26 sts)

Row 41: Gdec, G7, W8, G7, Gdec (24 sts)

The remainder of the panel is completed entirely in Dark Grey.

Row 42: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)

Row 43: Sc across (22 sts)

Row 44: Dec, sc 18, dec (20 sts)

Row 45: Dec, sc 16, dec (18 sts)

Row 46: Dec, sc 14, dec (16 sts)

Row 47: Sc across (16 sts)

Row 48: Dec, sc 12, dec (14 sts)

Row 49: Dec, sc 10, dec (12 sts)

Row 50: Sc across (12 sts)

Row 51: Dec, sc 8, dec (10 sts)

Row 52: Dec, sc 6, dec (8 sts)

Row 53: Dec, sc 4, dec (6 sts)

Row 54: Dec, sc 2, dec (4 sts)

Row 55: Dec twice (2 sts).

Tie off.

Back Body (make 1 panel) with 6.0mm hook:

Row 1: In dark blue, chain 49, sc across (48 sts)

Row 2: L3, D10, L5, D11, L6, D10, L3 (48 sts)

Row 3: L5, D6, L10, D7, L9, D6, L5 (48 sts)

Row 4: L6, D3, L13, D3, L14, D3, L6 (48 sts)

Row 5: L7, D1, L16, D1, L15, D1, L7 (48 sts)

Row 6: L4, G7, L9, G7, L10, G7, L4 (48 sts)

Row 7: L2, G11, L6, G11, L5, G11, L2 (48 sts)

Row 8: L1, G13, L3, G13, L3, G14, L1 (48 sts)

Row 9: L1, G15, L1, G15, L1, G145, L1 (48 sts)

The remainder of the back panel is completed entirely in Dark Grey.

Rows 10-11: Sc across (48 sts)

Row 12: Dec, sc 44, dec (46 sts)

Rows 13-15: Sc across (46 sts)

Row 16: Dec, sc 42, dec (44 sts)

Rows 17-19: Sc across (44 sts)

Row 20: Dec, sc 40, dec (42 sts)

Rows 21-23: Sc across (42 sts)

Row 24: Dec, sc 38, dec (40 sts)

Rows 25-26: Sc across (40 sts)

Row 27: Dec, sc 36, dec (38 sts)

Row 28: Sc across (38 sts)

Row 29: Dec, sc 34, dec (36 sts)

Rows 30-31: Sc across (36 sts)

Row 32: Dec, sc 32, dec (34 sts)

Row 33: Sc across (34 sts)

Row 34: Dec, sc 30, dec (32 sts)

Row 35: Sc across (32 sts)

Row 36: Dec, sc 28, dec (30 sts)

Row 37: Sc across (30 sts)

Row 38: Dec, sc 26, dec (28 sts)

Row 39: Sc across (28 sts)

Row 40: Dec, sc 24, dec (26 sts)

Row 41: Dec, sc 22, dec (24 sts)

Row 42: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)

Row 43: Sc across (22 sts)

Row 44: Dec, sc 18, dec (20 sts)

Row 45: Dec, sc 16, dec (18 sts)

Row 46: Dec, sc 14, dec (16 sts)

Row 47: Sc across (16 sts)

Row 48: Dec, sc 12, dec (14 sts)

Row 49: Dec, sc 10, dec (12 sts)

Row 50: Sc across (12 sts)

Row 51: Dec, sc 8, dec (10 sts)

Row 52: Dec, sc 6, dec (8 sts)

Row 53: Dec, sc 4, dec (6 sts)

Row 54: Dec, sc 2, dec (4 sts)

Row 55: Dec twice (2 sts).

Eyes (make 2 panels in white/grey and 2 panels in all grey) with 6.0mm hook:

The eye is worked into a magic ring, but you will not be working in rounds. Instead, you will turn your work, as if you were working a normal row.

Row 1: In white, MR 5 sc (5 sts), TURN

Row 2: Inc in each st across (10 sts), TURN

Row 3: Switch to Dark Grey, *Hdc, hdc 2 into next st*, repeat * twice more (15 sts)

Tie off.

Work two of the panels with the white part, and work two of the panels in all Dark Grey. The solid grey panels will be the back.

Place and secure 12mm safety eyes into the middle of the panels with the white centres.

Place two panels together (i.e. use one with the white centre and one all grey), matching up all sides, then join the panels by ch 1 and sc around both panels in Dark Grey. Make sure the front of the eye is facing you as you crochet around. (Sc, ch 2, sc) in the same st at the bottom of the semi-circle (i.e. in the corners of the flat edge). Stuff lightly when you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Continue crocheting around. Slst to first st to close. Tie off and poke the yarn tails back inside the piece. Repeat for second eye.

Set aside for assembly.

Teeth (make 2) using 3.5mm hook and Bernat Super Saver in White:

Row 1: Ch 101 + ch 7 for first tooth. Starting in 1st ch from hook, slst, sc, hdc, dc, sk 2 chs, slst in next 2 chs (1 tooth), *ch 5, slst, sc, hdc, dc, sk2 chs, slst in next 2 chs* (1 tooth), repeat from * across.

The bottom teeth are worked exactly the same way as the top, except you will need fewer chains to start. I started by ch 81 + ch 7.

Set aside for assembly.


Step 1: Teeth

The first thing we need to do is sew the teeth to the front panel.

Using your tapestry needle and white worsted yarn, sew the teeth to the front panel along the inside of the red mouth. I did this by first stitching along the outer edge all the way along the teeth and then I stitched down each individual tooth (you only really need to stitch down one side of each tooth to secure them).

Step 2: Body and Eyes

Time to join! Here’s what you’re working with:

Crochet shark assembly pieces

Cut two lengths of Dark Grey yarn about 25cm/10″ long each and set them aside for later.

Place the two panels together, matching up all sides.

**Make sure the front is facing you as you crochet around the outside.**

Starting on the left side at the top, begin attaching the panels together by chaining one and single crocheting around the outside of the panels in Dark Grey.

Crochet down the side, but stop about 8 or 9 rows up from where the grey part of the head ends and the white face begins. Pull up a loop and leave this for now.

Place the first eye between the panels and stitch in place by sewing through all three pieces; the back panel, the eye and the top panel. Tie a knot in the yarn tails and hide them inside the panels.

Pick up your working yarn again. Continue to crochet down your shark. When you get to the eye, simply crochet in the stitches of the front panel only since this section is already sew shut. You will need to change colours where appropriate when you get to the white section and then again to the blue section.

(Sc, ch 2, sc) in the bottom corners.

Continue crocheting across the bottom and up the other side. Partially stuff your shark. Continue crocheting. Stop when you get to the end of the white face section. Place the second eye the same way you did for the first.

Switch to Dark Grey yarn and continue crocheting along your shark. Stop before you reach the top.

Finish stuffing your shark (you will need a lot of stuffing!) You will want to spend some time carefully stuffing to make sure your shark is even and not under-stuffed.

When you are satisfied, continue crocheting up your shark. Top up stuffing as you go.

Close with a slst to first st and tie off. Poke the yarn tails back inside the piece.

That’s it! Now you’re ready to enjoy Shark Week in comfort!



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7 thoughts on “Shark Pillow Free Crochet Pattern

    1. Hi Claudia,

      Be sure to read through the “Reading this Pattern” and “Colour Legend” section. The entire pattern is worked in single crochet stitches, so the letters represent the colour changes i.e. L=Light Blue, D=Dark Blue, etc. Hope that helps!

  1. I want to make this for my daughter for her birthday, but I can’t find the Teal Zeal anywhere. What yarn colors would you recommend as a good substitute?

    1. Bernat Blanket O’Go in either Agave, Alpine or Atlantic would work, as they both have light and dark blues in them. Or you could go with two individual coordinating skeins of Bernat Blanket (for example, dark teal and something lighter to match). Any super bulky (size 6) yarn would work great!

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