Pineapple Keychain Free Crochet Pattern

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Pineapple Keychain Free Crochet Pattern

Hey, all! I promised you a bonus pattern yesterday in the Pineapple Plushie post and here it is! An itty bitty Pineapple Keychain! I cannot handle how tiny and adorable these little Pineapples are. They would make the perfect little bag charm or accessory for a fun summer outfit. The best part about these is how quick you can whip them up. I made both of these little Pineapples in just a couple of hours.

The pattern uses the diamond stitch to create the Pineapple-y texture, just like the jumbo sized version, which you can find HERE. If you are not familiar with the diamond stitch, Hopeful Honey has a really great video tutorial that I recommend you check out HERE. Keep in mind that this pattern includes increases and decreases, so it will not be exactly the same as the video.

Okay, Let’s get started! As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as our Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. This adorable little guy has just 4 separate pieces and weighs in at a whopping 9 cm (3.5 inches) from the top of the leaves to the bottom of the Pineapple. Here’s a couple of pictures with the jumbo version for comparison:

Pineapples

Pineapples

Pineapples

Here’s what I used:

*If you’d prefer a printable or downloadable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, ad-free, formatted PDF can be purchased HERE!*

  • 2.25mm hook (I use THESE hooks!);
  • Light weight cotton yarn in yellow and green;
  • Light weight pink cotton yarn for cheeks;
  • Black embroidery thread for mouth;
  • 6mm safety eyes;
  • Stuffing;
  • Tapestry needle.

Abbreviations and Stitches

Because this pattern uses a few terms that I don’t usually use in my patterns, I want to briefly outline the stitches for you:

Fptc – Front Post Treble Crochet

  • This stitch is worked as follows: Yarn over twice, insert your hook around the post of the desired stitch (front to back to front), yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook),  yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through last two loops. You will skip the sc behind the Fptc.

Fptc2tog – Front Post Treble Crochet Two Together

  • This stitch is worked by completing a fptc until two loops remain on your hook but, before finishing the stitch, you complete a second fptc into the next st to make just one stitch.
  • It’s worked as follows: *Yarn over twice, insert your hook around the post of the desired stitch (front to back to front), yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), [yarn over and pull through two loops] twice (until 2 loops on hook). Repeat from * (until 3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all three loops. You will skip the sc behind the Fptc.

Fptc/slst – Front Post Treble Crochet Slip Stitch

  • This stitch requires you to work a fptc as normal until you have two loops remaining on your hook. Then, instead of finishing the stitch, you insert your hook into the last stitch of the row, pull up a loop and pull through both loops.

*Ch 1 and turn at the end of each DC row. Ch 2 and turn at the end of each fptc row. *

Body (make 2 panels) in yellow:

Row 1: Ch 10, sc along (9 sts)

Row 2: Dc along (9 sts)

Row 3: Fptc into the 2nd sc of row 1, sc 3, [fptc2tog into 2nd and 6th sc of row 1, sc 3], repeat [ ] across (you will fptc into every 4th st. I recommend you watch the video tutorial linked above if you’re unsure, or check out the photos in the post for the Pineapple Plushie for help), fptc/slst into last st (2 “V”s)

Row 4: Dc inc twice, dc 5, dc inc twice (13 sts)

Row 5: Fptc, sc 3, [fptc2tog, sc 3], repeat [ ] once, fptc/slst into last st (3 “V”s)

Row 6: Dc along (13 sts)

Row 7: Sc 2, [fptc2tog, sc 3], repeat [ ] once, fptc2tog, sc 2 (2 “V”s plus 2 half “V”s)

Row 8: Dc dec twice, dc 5, dc dec twice (9 sts)

Row 9: Fptc, sc 3, fptc2tog, sc 3, fptc2tog/slst into last st (2 “V”s plus one half “V”)

Row 10: Dc dec twice, dc, dc dec twice (5 sts)

Row 11: Fptc2tog, sc 3, fptc2tog/slst into last st. (1 “V” plus 2 half “V”s)

Tie off. Repeat Rows 1-11 for second panel. Do not tie off second panel. Pull up a long loop and put these aside for assembly later.

Mini Pineapple

Small Leaves in green:

Step 1: Ch 12, slst, sc, hdc, dc, tc. Sk 1 ch, slst into next ch (5 sts) (*You will have 4 unworked chains after completing step 1. These will be your base chain into which you will attach the 2nd and 3rd leaves*)

Step 2: Ch 9, slst, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, tc. Sk 1 ch on base chain. Slst into next ch on base chain (8 sts) (*You will have 2 unworked chains remaining on your base chain*)

Step 3: Ch 6, slst, sc, hdc, dc, tc. Sk 1 ch on base chain, slst into last ch on base chain (5 sts)

Tie off.

Large Leaves in green:

Step 1: Ch 17, slst, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, tc. Sk 1 ch, slst into next ch (8 sts) (*You will have 6 unworked chains after finishing step 1, which is your base*)

Step 2: Ch 12, slst, sc 3, hdc 3, dc 3, tc. Sk 2 ch on base chain, slst into next ch on base chain (11 sts) (*You will have 3 unworked chains remaining after finishing step 2*)

Step 3: Ch 9, slst, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, tc. Sk 1 ch on base chain, slst into last ch on base chain (8 sts)

Tie off.

Assembly:

Step 1: Face

If you want to include a face on your Pineapple, insert 6mm safety eyes onto your front panel now. Then, stitch on the mouth and cheeks. For the cheeks, I simply stitched some light pink cotton yarn around the stitches beneath each eye two times.

Step 2: Leaves

Place the Small Leaves on top of the Large Leaves, lining up the bottom chains. Make sure the front of all of your leaves are facing you. Now, sc across the bottom of both sets of leaves to attach them together. Tie off.

Step 3: Pineapple

Place the two body panels of your Pineapple together and match up all sides. Be sure the Pineapple texture on each panel is facing out.

**Make sure the front of your Pineapple is facing you as you crochet around the outside of the piece.**

Your yarn should still be attached from the last stitch of Row 11 of the panel. Starting here, begin attaching the panels together by chaining one and single crocheting around the outside of the panels.

Crochet all the way around until just the top is left open. Stuff your Pineapple. Make sure you are satisfied with how your Pineapple is stuffed before proceeding because you will not be able to top up the stuffing afterwards!

Now, with your tapestry needle and a length of yellow yarn, place the leaves between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the leaves, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the tails between the panels of the body.

Now, picking up where you left off, continue single crocheting around the outside of the body. When you get to the leaves, simply sc in the stitches of the front panel only; since this portion is already sewn shut, it’s for aesthetics only. Once you are past the leaves, continue single crocheting both panels together as normal.

Close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.

Step 4: Finishing Touches

Finally, attach a keychain ring through the tip of the longest leaf and that’s it!

Enjoy!

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21 thoughts on “Pineapple Keychain Free Crochet Pattern

  1. Approx how much of each color yarn did you use? I know everyone crochets a little differently, but I’d like a general idea of how much to get.

    1. Hi Tricia,

      The pineapple keychain is quite small so you won’t need much. I don’t have an exact amount (I usually measure in terms of skeins used) but you’re looking at less than 25g for the yellow yarn, and maybe 10g for the green (likely even less…you could easily use scrap yarn!). To give you an idea, I had a skein of 50g yellow yarn and used less than half.

      Hope that helps!

  2. I followed the pattern exactly, but what I don’t understand is how the finished product on the tutorial looks so good! Mine looked awful after the first few rows, but I could tell the stitches were the same as the one in the photo. Also, is the “lightweight yarn” worsted weight or dk weight?

    1. It is a tricky stitch that might take some practice to perfect! The yarn is a category 3 light-weight worsted.

  3. By the leaves, what means SK 1 ch or SK 2 ch ?

    It’s a really nice pattern 😊But i can’t find what SK means ch means chain i know.

    1. Hi Elizabeth,

      Yes, you should chain at the end of the rows. Rather than include the instruction in every row, at the beginning of the pattern, I note that you should “Ch 1 and turn at the end of each DC row. Ch 2 and turn at the end of each fptc row.”

      Hope that helps!

  4. hi,

    i really want to make this but its so hard. I’m stuck at row 5. i think i give up. if you decided to make a video, please let me know.

    1. Hi Cara,

      Is there a part in particular that you’re having trouble with? I’m more than happy to help clarify if I can.

      Jillian

    1. Did you have an opportunity to look at the pictures in the post I linked to? There is also a video tutorial that you can watch linked in that post.

  5. Hi there! I have made both the front and back panel, but am stuck on the leaves! When I switch from hdc to dc to tc, do I skip chains to make up for that height difference? I haven’t seen a pattern written this way before (chaining and stitching all in one “step”). On “step 1” I end up with extra chains before I move on to step 2, and then on step 2 I don’t seem to have enough chains to work in all the stitches. Could you explain how to move from step 1 to step 2 a little more clearly? Thank you in advance!!

    1. Hi Lianne,

      No problem, I will clarify that!

      Each step is essentially one leaf. So, for example, for the small leaves, you start out with 12 chains and after you finish the stitches in step 1, you will still have 4 chains left unworked. These are the base chain that you will be attaching the other two leaves to. So in step 2, you will chain 9 for the second leaf and, when you are finished the stitches in step 2, you will skip 1 chain on the original base chain that you started with in Step 1 (i.e. those unworked 4 chains) and slst into the next. So now there are two chains left unworked from the original chains in step 1.
      Then you move on to step 3 to create the third leaf and attach to the base chain in the same way.

      You do not need to skip chains to make up for the height difference of the stitches. They are increasing gradually in height, and we want them all right next to each other.

      Please let me know if you still have questions!

      Jillian

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