Remember back in December when I released the Penguin Ornament pattern? And remember when we collectively realized how awesome 24/7 Cotton yarn looks when used in amigurumi and also how amazingly well those colours in particular go together? No? Just me?
Well, after I released the ornament pattern, that’s exactly how I felt so I resolved to make a full-sized penguin using 24/7 because I just love how the texture and shades of this yarn gives the piece a vintage-y vibe.
The Details
As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as all my patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. This amigurumi has 12 separate pieces, including the bow tie.
This pattern incorporates the tapestry (or intarsia) crochet technique and has a little bit of colour-work involved so please be sure to read the “Reading this Pattern” section!
The finished measurements are approximately 18cm/7″ from top to bottom.
Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)
If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE or through the “Shop It” button above!
Materials:
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- 3.25mm hook for main (I use THESE hooks!);
- 2.75mm hook for bow tie;
- Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in the following colours:
- Patons Astra in Cardinal
for bow tie (small amounts) or any lightweight yarn in colour of your choice;
- 12mm Safety Eyes;
- Stuffing;
- Tapestry needle.
(less than 50g);
(less than 50g);
(less than 50g);
for bow tie (small amounts) or any lightweight yarn in colour of your choice;Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:
Everything is worked in single crochet stitches, unless otherwise specified. So, in order to indicate the colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. Here are some examples:
- “Binc” means to work a sc increase in blue yarn.
- “B2, W14” means to work the next 2 sc in blue and the next 14 sc in white.
- “Bdec, W8, Bdec” means to work a regular sc decrease in blue, then work the next 8 stitches in white, then work another sc decrease in blue.
Due to the colour-changes, you will have two balls of yarn attached to your project at once; two blue (one on each side) and one white. This prevents you from having to carry your yarn.
When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour X and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour Y, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour Y. Drop your working yarn in Colour X and continue with Colour Y. You will pick your Colour X working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.
Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel! This will be different depending on whether you’re working an odd or even row. So, for the front panel, whenever you are working an odd-numbered row (row 1, 3, 5, etc), the right side of your panel will be facing you. When you’re working an even-numbered row, the wrong side will be facing you.
Colour legend:
B – Blue
W – White
Terms and Stitches:
Ch – Chain
Slst – Slip stitch
Sc – Single Crochet (again, in rows with colour changes, sc stitches will be indicated with the Colour Legend letter instead of “sc”)
Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase
Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease
Sc3tog – Single crochet 3 together. Work a decrease across 3 stitches.
Dc – Double crochet
Pattern
Front Body Panel:
You will make 2 panels using a 3.25mm hook. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row unless specified otherwise. Start with Blue.
Row 1: Ch 12, starting in second ch from hook, sc across (11 sts)
Row 2: Inc, twice, sc 7, inc twice (15 sts)
We will start the colour-work in the next row.
Row 3: Binc twice, B2, W7, B2, Binc twice (19 sts)
Row 4: Binc, B2, W13, B2, Binc (21 sts)
Row 5: B3, W15, B3 (21 sts)
Row 6: Binc, B1, W17, B1, Binc (23 sts)
Rows 7-11: B3, W17, B3 (23 sts)
Rows 12-13: B4, W15, B4 (23 sts)
Rows 14-15: B5, W13, B5 (23 sts)
Row 16: Bdec, B4, W11, B4, Bdec (21 sts)
Row 17: B6, W9, B6 (21 sts)
Row 18: Bdec, B2, W13, B2, Bdec (19 sts)
In the next row, we will start the head.
Row 19: Binc, [B1, W1] into the same st, W15, [W1, B1] into the same st, Binc (23 sts)
Row 20: Binc, B1, W19, B1, Binc (25 sts)
Row 21: Binc, B1, W21, B1, Binc (27 sts)
Row 22: B3, W21, B3 (27 sts)
Row 23: Binc, B2, W21, B2, Binc (29 sts)
Rows 24-27: B3, W23, B3 (29 sts)
Row 28: B4, W21, B4 (29 sts)
Row 29: B5, W19, B5 (29 sts)
Row 30: B6, W17, B6 (29 sts)
Row 31: Bdec, B5, W7, B1, W7, B5, Bdec (27 sts)
Row 32: B7, W5, B3, W5, B7 (27 sts)
All remaining rows are worked entirely in blue.
Row 33: Dec, sc 23, dec (25 sts)
Row 34: Sc across (25 sts)
Row 35: Dec, sc 21, dec (23 sts)
Row 36: Dec, sc 19, dec (21 sts)
Row 37: Dec twice, sc 13, dec twice (17 sts)
Row 38: Dec twice, sc 9, dec twice (13 sts)
Row 39: Dec twice, sc 5, dec twice (9 sts)
Tie off.
Back Body Panel:
The back body panel is worked exactly the same as the front, except there is zero colour-work. The panel is worked entirely in blue. Here are those stitch counts again without the colour-work!
Row 1: Ch 12, starting in second ch from hook, sc across (11 sts)
Row 2: Inc, twice, sc 7, inc twice (15 sts)
Row 3: Inc twice, sc 11, inc twice (19 sts)
Row 4: Inc, sc 17, inc (21 sts)
Row 5: Sc across (21 sts)
Row 6: Inc, sc 19, inc (23 sts)
Rows 7-15: Sc across (23 sts)
Row 16: Dec, sc 19, dec (21 sts)
Row 17: Sc across (21 sts)
Row 18: Dec, sc 17, dec (19 sts)
In the next row, we will start the head.
Row 19: Inc twice, sc 15, inc twice (23 sts)
Row 20: Inc, sc 21, inc (25 sts)
Row 21: Inc, sc 23, inc (27 sts)
Row 22: Sc across (27 sts)
Row 23: Inc, sc 25, inc (29 sts)
Rows 24-30: Sc across (29 sts)
Row 31: Dec, sc 25, dec (27 sts)
Row 32: Sc across (27 sts)
Row 33: Dec, sc 23, dec (25 sts)
Row 34: Sc across (25 sts)
Row 35: Dec, sc 21, dec (23 sts)
Row 36: Dec, sc 19, dec (21 sts)
Row 37: Dec twice, sc 13, dec twice (17 sts)
Row 38: Dec twice, sc 9, dec twice (13 sts)
Row 39: Dec twice, sc 5, dec twice (9 sts)
Tie off. Set panels aside for assembly later.
Flippers:
Using 3.25mm hook and blue yarn. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row unless specified otherwise.
Row 1: Ch 5, starting in second ch from hook, sc across (4 sts)
Rows 2-3: Sc across (4 sts)
Row 4: Dec, sc 2 (3 sts)
Rows 5-6: Sc across (3 sts)
Row 7: Sc 1, dec (2 sts)
Row 8: Sc across (2 sts)
Tie off and weave in ends. Repeat rows 1-8 for second panel. Place both panels together (since each panel is not perfectly symmetrical, make sure they are matching exactly such that the yarn tails line up) and single crochet around the outside of the panels to join them. (Sc, ch 1, sc) in each of the bottom corners.
Stuff lightly once you have crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Continue crocheting around, topping up stuffing as you go. Slst to first st and tie off. Weave in end.
Repeat for second flipper, making sure that the second flipper is facing the opposite direction as the first when you are crocheting around (so that they are mirrored images of each other). Set aside for assembly later.
Feet:
Using 3.25mm hook and yellow yarn. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row unless specified otherwise.
Row 1: Ch 6, starting in second ch from hook, sc across (5 sts)
Row 2: Sc across (5 sts)
Row 3: Work [sc, dc, sc] all into first st, *slst into next st, work [sc, dc, sc] all into next st*, repeat from * once more (3 shell sts)
Tie off and weave in ends. Repeat rows 1-3 for the back panel. Place both panels together and single crochet around the outside of the panels to join them. (Sc, ch 1, sc) in each of the bottom corners.
Stuff lightly once you have crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Continue crocheting around, topping up stuffing as you go. Slst to first st and tie off. Weave in end.
Repeat for second foot. Set aside for assembly later.
Beak:
Using 3.25mm hook and yellow yarn. The beak is worked in the round by working around both sides of the foundation chain.
Rnd 1: Ch 4, starting in second ch from hook, sc 2, 3sc into last ch, continue on opposite side of chains, [sc 1, ch 2, sc 1] in same st, 2sc in last ch.
Tie off and weave in ends.
Bow Tie:
Using 2.75mm hook and a category 3 (lightweight) yarn in colour of your choice. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.
Row 1: Ch 4, starting in second ch from hook, sc across (3 sts)
Rows 2-3: Sc across (3 sts)
Row 4: Sc3tog (1 st)
Row 5: Sc 1 (1 st)
Row 6: 3sc into same st (3 sts)
Rows 7-9: Sc across (3 sts)
Tie off. Repeat rows 1-9 for second panel. Place both panels together and crochet around. [Sc, ch 1, sc] in each corner. Stuff each side lightly as you crochet around. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off and weave in ends.
Cut a length of yarn in the same colour and wind tightly around the centre. Tie a knot to secure, leaving long yarn tails for stitching it on later.
Move on to final assembly below!
Assembly:
Step 1: Face
First, we need to attach and stitch on our facial features to the front panel.
Insert 12mm safety eyes onto the front panel about 4 stitches in from the left. The eyes are located between the 7th and 8th rows counting DOWN from the start of the WHITE rows at the top of the head.
Next, stitch some pink yarn around a stitch underneath each eye for the cheeks.
Stitch on the beak between the eyes.
Step 2: Body, Flippers and Feet
Here are the pieces you should now have at this step.
Cut off four lengths of blue yarn approximately 30cm/12″ long each and set them aside for later.
Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides.
Make sure the front is facing you as you crochet around the outside.
Starting on the left side, at the top of the head, begin attaching the panels together by single crocheting around the outside of the panels in blue.
Crochet most of the way down the head and stop.
Now we will attach the first flipper. Insert the flipper between the panels (make sure you’re using the correct flipper, since there is “left” and “right” flipper.)
With a length of yarn that you set aside earlier and your tapestry needle, sew the flipper in place between the panels. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the head.
Continue crocheting down the head and body. When you get to the flipper, sc in the stitches of the front panel only (since this section is already sewn shut). Continue crocheting both panels together as normal once past the flipper.
Stop about half way down the body.
Next, insert the first foot between the panels and sew in place using a piece of yarn that you set aside earlier and your tapestry needle. Again, stitch in place by stitching through all three pieces, the back panel, the foot and the front panel. Once in place, tie a knot in the yarn tails and hide them between the panels.
Continue crocheting around. When you get to the foot, sc in the stitches of the front panel only since this section is already sewn shut.
Continue crocheting around and repeat the above steps for the second foot and the second flipper on the other side of the penguin.
Continue crocheting up the side, stopping at the top of the head. Stuff your penguin now. Continue to crochet across the top of the head, topping up stuffing as you go.
When you are satisfied with the stuffing, close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.
Finish the piece with some needle sculpting for the eyes. Stitch on your bow tie and you’re done! The bow tie could also be used as a bow instead; just stitch it on at the top of your penguin’s head!
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