Mushroom Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

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Mushroom Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

Mushrooms are really living their best lives right now. They are very on-trend at the moment and it seems I can’t open Instagram or Tiktok without seeing lots of adorable cottage-core mushroom art at every turn.

So, of course, I’m joining in! This ultra-plush mushroom is big and squishy; perfect as a cute cushion or cuddle buddy.

Of course, it doesn’t have to be big! This pattern can be made in any yarn weight to make the perfect-sized mushy for you. Simply adjust your hook size to match (as a general rule, size down about 2 to 2.5mm in hook size from what’s listed on the yarn label).

The Details

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. Here are the deets:

  • Big Mushy has just 2 panels, and the spots are worked separately and stitched on;
  • The finished measurements are approximately 67cm/26.5″ tall;
  • Ch 1 at the end of each row does not count as a stitch;
  • The yarn used does shed a bit so if you want to avoid that, Bernat Blanket yarn or a jumbo velvet yarn would be good substitutes;
  • Panels are worked from the bottom up in flat rows;
  • Arms are worked in continuous rounds;
  • Full spots are worked in continuous rounds and half spots are worked in turned rows. They are stitched onto the front panel;
  • The panels are then joined together by crocheting around the outside edges and stuffed. Arms are added during assembly;
  • Yarn tails should be dropped on the wrong sides of the panels so that they are hidden inside when the panels are joined together.
  • There is some colour work. Here are the abbreviations:
    • White = W
    • Red = R
    • Silver/Grey = G
  • Examples:
    • W7 means to work the next 7 sc sts in white.
    • Wdec means to work a sc decrease in white.
    • R7, G6 means to work the next 7 sc sts in Red and the next 6 sc sts in grey.
    • [R1, G1] means to work one sc in red and one sc in grey into the same st.

Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)

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If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE or through the “Shop It” button above!

Materials:

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Terms and Stitches:

Ch – Chain

MR – Magic ring

Slst – Slip stitch

Sc – Single Crochet

Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease

Hdc – Half double crochet

Dc – Double crochet

Pattern

Front Panel:

In White, chain 5.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Inc in each st (8 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Inc in first st, sc 6, inc in last st (10 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc 9, inc in last st (11 sts), ch 1, turn.

Rows 5-7: Sc in each st across (11 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 8: Dec, sc 9 (10 sts), ch 1, turn.

Rows 9-10: Sc in each st across (10 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 11: Dec, sc 8 (9 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 12: Sc in each st across (9 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 13: Sc 7, dec (8 sts).

Tie off. Set aside.

In red, chain 10.

Row 14: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 9 (9 sts), ch 1, turn.

We are going to join the stem in the next row and we will also start the colour-work in the next row. Position the stem so that yarn tails are on the right.

Row 15: Rinc in first 2 sts, R6, Rinc in last st, working across stem Winc in first st of stem, W7 (21 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 16: Wdec, W7, G7, R4, Rinc (21 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 17: R6, G7, W8 (21 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 18: [R1, W1] into same st, W7, G6, R7 (22 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 19: R7, G6, W7, [G1, R1] into same st, Rinc (24 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 20: Rinc, [R1, G1] into same st, G2, W7, G5, R8 (26 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 21: R9, G5, W5, G6, Rinc (27 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 22: Rinc, G8, W3, G5, R10 (28 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 23: R12, G15, Rinc (29 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 24: Rinc, R1, G13, R12, Rdec (29 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 25: R15, G11, R2, Rinc (30 sts), ch 1, turn.

The remaining rows are worked entirely in Red.

Rows 26-27: Sc in each st across (30 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 28: Dec, sc 28 (29 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 29: Sc in each st across (29 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 30: Dec, sc 27 (28 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 31: Sc 26, dec (27 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 32: Dec, sc 23, dec (25 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 33: Sc 23, dec (24 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 34: Dec, sc 22 (23 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 35: Dec, sc 19, dec (21 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 36: Dec, sc 19 (20 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 37: Dec, sc 16, dec (18 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 38: Dec, sc 14, dec (16 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 39: Dec twice, sc 8, dec twice (12 st), ch 1, turn.

Row 40: Dec twice, sc 4, dec twice (8 sts).

Tie off. Weave yarn tails to the back. Set aside.

Back Panel:

The back panel is worked almost exactly the same as the front panel but with different colour-work.

Rows 1-14: Repeat rows 1 to 13 of the front panel.

We are going to join the stem in the next row and we will also start the colour-work in the next row. Position the stem so that yarn tails are on the right.

Row 15: Rinc in first 2 sts, R6, Rinc in last st, working across stem Rinc in first st of stem, R1, W6 (21 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 16: Wdec, W1, R17, Rinc (21 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 17: R20, W1 (21 sts), ch 1, turn.

All remaining rows are worked entirely in Red.

Row 18: Inc, sc 20 (22 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 19: Sc 20, inc twice (24 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 20: Inc twice, sc 22 (26 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 21: Sc 25, inc (27 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 22: Inc, sc 26 (28 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 23: Sc 27, inc (29 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 24: Inc, sc 26, dec (29 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 25: Sc 28, inc (30 sts), ch 1, turn.

Rows 26-40: Work rows 26 to 40 of front panel.

Tie off. Weave yarn tails to the back. Set aside.

Spots (make 3):

In white, work in continuous rounds.

Rnd 1: Work 6 sc into MR (6 sts)

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around (12 sts)

Slst to beg st to join and tie off. Weave in ends.

Half Spots (make 4):

In white, work in turned rows.

Row 1: Work 4 sc into MR (4 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 2: 2 hdc in each st across (8 sts).

Tie off. Weave in ends.

Arms (make 2):

In white, work in continuous rounds.

Rnd 1: Work 5 sc into MR (5 sts)

Rnds 2-3: Sc in each st around (5 sts).

Tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly.

Move on to assembly below!

Assembly:

Step 1: Face and Spots

Insert 18mm safety eyes into the front panel at row 7 with about 4 sts between them. Stitch on a mouth using black yarn.

Stitch spots onto front panel. Start with the three full spots and then add the half spots along the edges. I didn’t bother making spots for the back but you do you!

Step 2: Joining Panels

Here are the pieces you should have at this step (plus arms, not pictured!):

Place the two panels together, matching up all sides.

Make sure the front is facing you as you crochet around the outside.

Starting in a stitch at the top of the mushroom on the left, begin attaching the panels together by inserting your hook through both panels and single crocheting around the outside edge of the panels starting in Red. Switch colours as needed as you crochet around (i.e. when you get to the spots and later when you get to the stem). You do not need to cut your yarn each time; pull the working yarn in between the panels before you drop it and finish the stitch with the next colour. Then you can simply pick it up again from between the panels when you need it.

When crocheting over the spots, insert your hook through all three layers: the spot and both panels.

Stop about halfway down the stem. Insert the arms on each side and stitch in place. Continue crocheting around.

Starting stuffing the stem after you’ve crocheted past the second arm. Continue crocheting around, switching back to Red when needed. Stuff after crocheting most of the way around i.e. when only the top is left open. You will need a lot!

Continue crocheting around then close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.

Step 3: Needle Sculpting Finishing Touch

To define the top of the stem (i.e. the area surrounded by the grey mushroom “gills”), use your tapestry needle and white yarn to needle-sculpt around the top of the stem, as shown by the dotted line below:

Mushroom

To do this, insert your hook through a stitch on the front between the white and grey areas. Push the needle all the way through the mushroom and out the back. Insert your hook into the SAME stitch on the back (so that there is no white yarn showing on the back) but out through a DIFFERENT stitch on the front. You should aim for a stitch right next to the first one you went through on the front. Pull taut.

Continue doing this up and around the top white area of the stem. Make sure you are always going back through the same stitch on the back (so you never see white yarn) but through a new stitch on the front, pulling taut after each stitch. The woven yarn on the inside will cause the stuffing to become compact in those areas, creating a sculpted effect.

Happy crocheting!

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5 thoughts on “Mushroom Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

      1. Hello, I do not understand how you can see white on the front of 1 panel, and red on the other side. For instance, I am stuck on row 15. I connected the red to the stem, with the red chain of sc off to the right. I cannot figure out how to connect the white on after that. Thanks

        1. Hi Adelyn,

          The Front and Back panels are worked separately and have different instructions for the colour-work. To change colours, you will insert your hook into the last stitch of the working colour, yarn over, and pull up a loop, but do not finish the stitch. Instead, take the new colour and finish the stitch by pulling through both loops. Drop the previous working yarn on the wrong side and continue with the new colour. You will pick up the previous colour in the next row when you need it.

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