The holidays may be over but we’ve got quite a bit of winter left to go (at least for us here in Canada) so I thought this moosey-guy, who is looking so cozy in his buffalo plaid sweater, would be a great pattern to start the new year! Doesn’t he look the snuggliest? I need to find myself a buffalo plaid sweater.
Also, I want to give a shout out to Bethany over at Whistle and Ivy. She developed the concept of crocheted buffalo plaid and hosts a Plaid Week each year. She has tonnes of incredible buffalo plaid crochet projects on her blog, so go check them out if you are looking for more plaid inspiration!
As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. Mr. Moose has 14 separate pieces, so there is a fair amount of sewing and assembling involved. This pattern also incorporates the tapestry (or intarsia) crochet technique and, as mentioned, has a lot of colour-work.
The finished measurement is approximately 30cm/12″ from top to bottom, and 25cm/10″ across the antlers.
I encourage you to read everything thoroughly before beginning, particularly if you don’t have a lot of experience with tapestry crochet.
Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)
If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE or through the “Shop It” button above!
- 3.25mm hook (I use these hooks!);
- 1.75mm hook (for nostrils);
- Red Heart Super Saver in Cherry Red;
- Red Heart Super Saver in Black;
- Red Heart Super Saver in Cafe Latte;
- Red Heart Super Saver in Mushroom;
- Bernat Premium Tweeds in Chocolate Tweed;
- Loops & Threads Impeccable in Burgundy;
- 12mm eyes;
- Black crochet thread;
- Tapestry needle;
Stitches and Special Terms (US Terminology):
MR – Magic Ring
Ch – Chain
Slst – Slip stitch
Sc – Single crochet
Inc – Increase. Work 2 sc in the same st.
Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease.
Fpdc – Front post double crochet
Bpdc – Back post double crochet
BLO – Back Loops Only
Reading this Pattern and Colour Changing:
When switching to a new colour, insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop, then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. This applies when switching colours at the end of a row before starting a new row in a different colour too.
Everything is worked in single crochet stitches, except for rows 14 and 36 where the stitches will be specified. So, in order to indicate the colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in any lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “Rdec” means to work a sc decrease in Red yarn. “R4, BL4” means to work the next 4 sc in Red and the next 4 sc in Black, and so on.
Due to the colour-changes, you will have several skeins or balls of yarn attached to your project at once. Carry the yarn on the back of the panels by dropping the working yarn when you switch colours and picking it back up again when you need it in the next row. Always carry the yarn on the wrong side (instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go); this ensures the front of the panel has clear lines and colours without any of the yarn carries showing through.
*Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel!* So, for example, when you are working on a row where the wrong side of the panel is facing you, you will have to make a conscious effort to pull your yarn toward you to the wrong side of the panel when dropping your yarn during a colour-change. This is because it will naturally drop to the side furthest away from you if you don’t.
This pattern uses the Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc) and Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc) stitches. If you’re not familiar with these stitches, there are lots of tutorials on Youtube that can help!
R – Red
BL – Black
BU – Burgundy
CL – Cafe Latte (muzzle colour)
CT – Chocolate Tweed (main colour)
Front Body (make 1 panel) with 3.25mm hook.
Start with Cafe Latte. The panels are worked from the bottom up, starting with the legs.
*Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row*
The first two rows are completed in Cafe Latte.
Row 1: Ch 6, sc 5 (5 sts)
Row 2: Inc, sc 3, inc (7 sts)
Switch to Chocolate Tweed. Rows 3-12 are completed in Chocolate Tweed.
Row 3: Inc, sc 5, inc (9 sts)
Row 4: Sc across (9 sts)
Row 5: Inc, sc 7, inc (11 sts)
Rows 6-7: Sc across (11 sts)
Row 8: Inc, sc 9, inc (13 sts)
Rows 9-10: Sc across (13 sts)
Tie off. Repeat rows 1-10 for the second leg but do not tie off. You will now have two separate leg pieces, like so:
Now we will join both leg pieces together by crocheting across both pieces in row 11, as shown in the photo above in the middle. Rows 11 and 12 are worked in Chocolate Tweed.
Row 11: Sc across (26 sts)
Row 12: Inc, sc 24, inc (28 sts)
Now we will start the sweater. Switch to Black.
Row 13: Sc across (28 sts)
Row 14: Ch 2 (does not count as st), [fpdc, bpdc], repeat [ ] across (28 sts)
*The last bpdc in row 15 will not be worked around a post, since it’s the last stitch of the row. Simply insert your hook into the last st from the back and complete the dc normally.*
Now we will start incorporating colour-changes for the buffalo plaid pattern of the sweater.
Row 15: R4, [BU4, R4], repeat [ ] twice more (28 sts)
Rows 16-17: Repeat row 15 (28 sts)
Row 18: BU4, [BL4, BU4], repeat [ ] twice more (28 sts)
Rows 19-20: Repeat row 18 (28 sts)
Rows 21-23: Repeat row 15 (28 sts)
Row 24: BUdec, BU2, BL4, BU4, BL4, BU4. BL4, BU2, BUdec (26 sts)
Row 25: BU3, BL4, BU4, BL4, BU4, BL4, BU3 (26 sts)
Row 26: Repeat row 25 (26 sts)
Row 27: Rdec, R1, BU4, R4, B4, R4, B4, R1, Rdec (24 sts)
Row 28: R2, BU4, R4, BU4, R4, BU4, R2 (24 sts)
Row 29: Repeat row 28 (24 sts)
Row 30: BUdec, BL4, BU4, BL4, BU4, BL4, BUdec (22 sts)
Row 31: BLdec, BL3, BU4, BL4, BU4, BL3, BLdec (20 sts)
Row 32: BLdec, BL2, BU4, BL4, BU4, BL2, BLdec (18 sts)
Row 33: BUdec, BU1, R4, BU4, R4, BU1, BUdec (16 sts)
Row 34: Rdec twice, R2, BU4, R2, Rdec twice (12 sts)
Switch to Black.
Row 35: Sc 12 (12 sts)
Row 36: Ch 2 (does not count as st), [fpdc, bpdc], repeat [ ] across (12 sts)
*Remember, the last bpdc in row 36 will not be worked around a post, since it’s the last stitch of the row. Simply insert your hook into the last st from the back and complete the dc normally.*
Now we will start the head. Switch to Cafe Latte. Rows 37 to 48 are completed entirely in Cafe Latte.
Row 37: Ch 5, sc 4 along chs, in BLO sc 12 along previous row (16 sts)
Row 38: Ch 5, inc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3 along rem chs, sc 15 along previous row, inc in last st (22 sts)
Row 39: Inc, sc 20, inc (24 sts)
Row 40: Inc, sc 22, inc (26 sts)
Rows 41-46: Sc across (26 sts)
Row 47: Dec, sc 22, dec (24 sts)
Row 48: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)
Now we will start incorporating colour changes between the muzzle/head. Cafe Latte is abbreviated as CL and Chocolate Tweed is abbreviated as CT.
Row 49: CT1, CL20, CT1 (22 sts)
Row 50: CT2, CL18, CT2 (22 sts)
Row 51: CT4, CL14, CT4 (22 sts)
The remaining rows are completed entirely in Chocolate Tweed.
Rows 52-53: Sc across (22 sts)
Row 54: Dec, sc 18, dec (20 sts)
Row 55: Sc across (20 sts)
Row 56: Dec, 16, dec (18 sts)
Row 57: Sc across (18 sts)
Row 58: Dec, sc 14, dec (16 sts)
Row 59: Dec, sc 12, dec (14 sts)
Row 60: Dec twice, sc 6, dec twice (10 sts)
Row 61: Dec twice, sc 2, dec twice (6 sts)
Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.
Back Body (make 1 panel) with 3.25mm hook:
The back panel is made exactly the same as the front panel EXCEPT the entire head can be worked in Chocolate Tweed. This means rows 37 to 61 can be worked entirely in Chocolate Tweed.
Also, remember, you will want to make sure that the yarn carries for the back panel are on the opposite side than they were for the first panel (i.e. what was the “wrong” side on your front panel is now going to be the “right” side on your back panel). This ensures that all the rows line up exactly with all the yarn carries facing inside when we put the panels together.
Arms (make 4 panels in twos as explained below)
Start with Red with 3.25mm hook.
Row 1: Ch 7, BU1, R4, BU1 (6 sts)
Row 2: BU1, R4, BU1 (6 sts)
Row 3: Repeat row 2 (6 sts)
Row 4: BL1, BU4, BL1 (6 sts)
Rows 5-6: Repeat row 4 (6 sts)
Rows 7-8: Repeat row 2 (6 sts)
Switch to Black.
Row 9: Sc across (6 sts)
Row 10: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), [fpdc, bpdc], repeat [ ] across (6 sts)
*Remember, the last fpdc will not be worked around a post, since it’s the last st of the row. Simply insert your hook from the back and complete a dc normally.*
Switch to Cafe Latte.
Row 11: In BLO sc 6 (6 sts)
Row 12: Sc across (6 sts)
Repeat rows 1-12 for second panel. Do not tie off second panel. Put both panels together, matching up all sides and colours. Chain 1 and sc around the entire piece, being sure to change colours as appropriate as you go. (Sc, ch, Sc) into each corner. Stuff when you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off. Repeat for second arm. Set these aside for assembly later.
Ears (make 4 panels in twos as explained below):
Make the ears in Chocolate Tweed using 3.25mm hook.
Row 1: Ch 6, sc 5 (5 sts)
Row 2: Inc, sc 3, inc (7 sts)
Rows 3-4: Sc across (7 sts)
Row 5: Sc 5, dec (6 sts)
Row 6: Sc across (6 sts)
Row 7: Sc 4, dec (5 sts)
Row 8: Dec, sc 1, dec (3 sts)
Row 9: Sc 1, dec (2 sts)
Row 10: Dec (1 st)
Row 11: Sc 1 (1 st)
Repeat rows 1-11 for second panel. Do not tie off second panel. Put both panels together, matching up all sides. Chain 1 and sc around the entire piece. (Sc 3) into the stitch at the tip of the ear. Stuff when you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off. Repeat for second ear. Set these aside for assembly later.
Antlers (make 4 panels in twos as explained below):
Make the antlers in Mushroom using a 3.25mm hook.
Row 1: Ch 20, sc across (19 sts)
Row 2: Sc 18, inc (20 sts)
Row 3: Sc across (20 sts)
Row 4: Sc 19, inc (21 sts)
Now we will start the first “branch” of the antler. You will be crocheting only a few stitches across the previous row before chaining 1 and turning.
Row 5: Sc 7 (7 sts)
Row 6: Dec, sc 4, inc (7 sts)
Row 7: Sc across (7 sts)
Row 8: Dec, sc 3, dec (5 sts)
Row 9: Dec, sc 1, dec (3 sts)
Position the antler so that the first branch is on the far right. Reattach your yarn in the 3rd stitch to the left of the first branch, as shown in the pictures below. Now we will crochet the second branch.
Row 1: Sc 4 (4 sts)
Row 2: Dec, sc 2 (3 sts)
Row 3: Sc across (3 sts)
Row 4: Sc 2, inc (4 sts)
Row 5: Sc across (4 sts)
Row 6: Inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)
Reattach your yarn in the 3rd stitch to the left of the second branch. Now we will crochet the third branch, which is done exactly the same as the second branch. Repeat rows 1 to 6 of the second branch.
Repeat all of the above for the back panel of the antler but do not tie off. Instead, place both panels together, ensuring all the yarn tails are facing the inside and begin attaching the panels together by crocheting around both panels in Mushroom. (Sc, ch 1, sc) in each corner at the end of the antler (i.e. the part that will attach to the head). Stuff as you crochet around each branch. Top up stuffing as you go. Slst to beginning st to close and tie off. Weave yarn tail back inside the piece.
Repeat all of the above for the second antler. Be sure that, when you crochet around the second antler, you turn it so that it is pointing in the opposite direction as the first one so that the crochet edging is facing out on both. You will be crocheting around the second antler in the opposite direction from the first one.
Set these aside for assembly.
Nostrils (make 2):
Make the nostrils with black crochet thread and 1.75mm hook.
I decided to crochet the nostrils and sew them on, but feel free to stitch them directly onto the front panel using black crochet thread or even yarn if you want.
Rnd 1: MR 6 (6 sts)
Slst to first st and tie off. Repeat for second nostril.
Step 1: Eyes, Nostrils, Mouth, and Eyebrows
First we need to attach all of our facial features to the front panel.
The first thing I did was insert 12mm safety eyes on the face so that they overlapped the top of the muzzle a little.
Next, sew on the nostrils and stitch on a little mouth below the nostrils with black crochet thread.
Finally, stitch on eyebrows.
Step 2: Body, Arms, Ears and Antlers
Okay, here are all the pieces you should now have at this step (also, a glimpse at the yarn ends that we DON’T have to weave in. Yay!)
Okay, cut off two lengths of Red yarn and two lengths of Chocolate Tweed yarn about 30cm/12″ long each and set them aside for later.
Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides and colours.
**Make sure the front of your Moose is facing you as you crochet around the outside.**
Starting on the left side of the muzzle, in the middle, begin attaching the panels together by chaining one and single crocheting around the outside of the panels starting in Cafe Latte.
As you crochet along the outside, you will need to switch colours where appropriate. When switching colours, insert your hook into the last stitch of Colour A. Pull up a loop in Colour A. Then yarn over in Colour B to complete the stitch. Continue with Colour B until you need to switch again. There are a lot of colour changes along the sweater; if you’re not feeling up to all those colour changes, feel free to crochet around the sweater entirely in black. I think it would look just as great!
Stop when you get to the top of the sweater, just below the collar, and pull up a long loop.
With your tapestry needle and a length of Red yarn that you set aside earlier, place the first arm between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the arm, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body.
Continue crocheting down the sweater. When you get to the arm, simply crochet in the stitches of the front panel only, since this portion is already sewn shut.
Switch colours to Chocolate Tweed where appropriate when you get to the leg, then to Cafe Latte for the hoof, and then back to Chocolate Tweed, and so on for the next leg.
Stop when you get to the bottom of the sweater on the other side. Pull up a long loop. Stuff the legs and body.
Place the second arm and attach it the same way you did for the first.
Continue crocheting up the body, switching the colours back and forth as required. You will need to switch colours again to Cafe Latte when you get back to the muzzle.
Stop after one or two stitches of Cafe Latte and pull up a long loop. Top up stuffing in the body. Make sure you stuff the neck firmly so it won’t be wobbly later (those antlers are heavy!)
Now we will attach the first ear and the first antler.
The top of the ear will slightly overlap on top of the bottom of the antler. In order to do this, you will start attaching the antler at the top and sew the antler in place by sewing downward. With your tapestry needle and a length of Chocolate Tweed yarn that you set aside earlier, place the first antler between the panels, lining up the top corner of the antler with the very last stitch of row 61 (the last row of the head). Attach the antler by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the antler and the bottom panel. You will also want to make sure the antler is sticking out from the panels horizontally, and not sticking up too vertically (you may need to sew further in on the body of the antler to achieve this). Sew the antler about half way and then add the ear. Now you will sew through all four pieces, the bottom panel, the antler, the ear and the top panel. After a couple of stitches, the antler will be fully secured and you will just need to finish sewing the bottom of the ear. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body.
Picking up where you left off, continue crocheting up around the head, switching to Chocolate Tweed when you need to. Remember, when you get to the ear and the antler, you can crochet in the stitches of the front panel only, since this part is already sewn shut.
Top up stuffing.
Now place the second antler and ear and attach the same way you did for the first.
You should now only have a very small hole in your moose (below the ear but above where you started). Finish topping up stuffing! Use the back of your crochet hook to push and even out the stuffing if you need to.
When you’re satisfied, continue crocheting around and close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.
Finally, I did some needle sculpting of the eyes to give my Moose some extra character! Check out my video on How to Needle Sculpt Amigurumi over on the Video Tutorial page to see how.
That’s it! You’re done!
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10 thoughts on “Moose Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern”
So cute, thanks so much for sharing your pattern…:))
Love, love , love this sweet moose!! Thank you for this delightful pattern!!!
He is so adorable and so unique, i will certainly give it a try……for my grandson.
Thanks so much for all your wonderful projects…..very kind of you.
Too cute, can’t wait to make one for myself!
Funny moose story: Hubby and I driving down a narrow dirt road. I look to my right and see two dogs just tearing it up in the field next to the road. Due to the approaching treeline, I don’t see what they’re chasing. Turn my head back just in time to see a MOOSE crash through the trees on my right, clear the barb wire fence, and land smack dab in front of our vehicle! Moose turns to us with this startled look on its face. JUMPS STRAIGHT UP IN THE AIR HIGH ENOUGH TO CLEAR THE TRUCK’S HOOD and then vanishes. A split second later, we drove through the spot where the moose had been, unscathed, and marveling at the fact.
True story, will never forget it
Oh my goodness! That story sounds equally terrifying and hilarious! I’ve had a few moose encounters myself (Newfoundland is teeming with them!) but nothing this close. Glad all was well in the end and, bonus, you got a great story too! 😀
Thank you so much for the patterns! I cannot wait to start making them for my great grandkids!!! All of them are just so dang C.U.T.E. !!!! Thanks again.
How do you know which side is the “wrong” side? I did back loops for the start of the head and it looks like my “wrong” side should have been the “right” side.
When you’re working on the front panel, the right side will be facing you when you’re crocheting odd numbered rows (row 1, 3, 5, etc). When you’re working on the back panel, the right side (i.e. the side that will be facing out when you put the panels together) will be facing you when you’re crocheting even numbered rows (row 2, 4, 6, etc).
MERCI pour le partage, adorable cadeau de naissance pour de petites mains; MERCI et bravo pour ce modele.