Lamb Amigurumi

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Lamb Amigurumi

Happy Spring, friends! Since Easter is just around the corner, I am dropping into your feeds today with a new pattern for this sweet Lamb Amigurumi.

Bobbles are kind of the going trend for lamb amigurumis and I can see why; such a fun, textured stitch which perfectly replicates the look of fluffy wool. This is my own little twist on that trend.

Looking for more Spring and Easter patterns? I did a round-up here of all my top Easter and Spring patterns so you don’t have to go searching through the blog. Check it out here.

The Details (Pattern Notes)

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as many of my patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. This amigurumi has 14 separate panels/pieces, including the bows.

This pattern incorporates the tapestry (or intarsia) crochet technique and has a little bit of colour-work involved so please be sure to read the “Reading this Pattern” section!

The finished measurements are approximately 18cm/7″ from top to bottom.

The Color Made Easy is a bulky (weight 5) yarn and the Loops & Threads is a worsted (weight 4) yarn, so the Loops & Threads is HELD DOUBLE for the face and ears. You could alternatively use a bulky weight for the face and ears as well. The worsted weight is held single strand for the hooves.

All bobbles are worked on even-numbered rows. All odd-numbered rows are single crochet stitches only.

The first bobble of each row is worked into the first st at the base of the ch 2.

All bobbles are worked away from you. So when you are working odd-numbered rows, the bobbles will be on the opposite side of the panel.

The pattern calls for a 3.5mm hook. As such, your tension will be very tight. However, If you feel the 3.5mm hook is too small for the bulky yarn and your tension is too tight to manage, feel free to size up to a 4mm.

Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)

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If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE or through the “Shop It” button above!

Materials:

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Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:

Everything is worked in either single crochet or bobble stitches, unless otherwise specified. In order to indicate the colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. Here are some examples:

  • “PBodec” means to work a bobble decrease in pink yarn (see stitch definitions below).
  • “In pink Bo, sc, in cream sc 16, in pink Bo, sc” means to work a bobble stitch and then a single crochet st in pink, then 16 single crochet stitches in cream, then work a bobble st and a single crochet st in pink.
  • “In pink [Bo, sc] x 2” means to work, in pink yarn, a bobble stitch in the first st and then a single crochet in the next st, two times.

Due to the colour-changes, you will have three balls of yarn attached to your project at once; two pink (one on each side) and one white. This prevents you from having to carry your yarn.

When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour X and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour Y, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour Y. Drop your working yarn in Colour X and continue with Colour Y. You will pick your Colour X working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.

Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel! This will be different depending on whether you’re working an odd or even row. So, for the front panel, whenever you are working an odd-numbered row (row 1, 3, 5, etc), the right side of your panel will be facing you. When you’re working an even-numbered row, the wrong side will be facing you.

Colour legend:

P – Pink

C – Cream

Terms and Stitches:

Ch – Chain

Slst – Slip stitch

MR – Magic Ring

Sc – Single Crochet

Sc2tog – Single crochet 2 together. Work a regular sc decrease.

Bo – Bobble stitch. *Yarn over, insert hook into st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops on hook.* (2 loops remain on hook). Repeat * three more times (5 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Bodec – Bobble decrease. *Yarn over, insert hook into st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops on hook* (2 loops remain on hook). Repeat * once more (3 loops remain on hook). [Yarn over, insert hook into NEXT st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops on hook] (4 loops remain on hook). Repeat [ ] once more (5 loops remain on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops.

Pattern

Front Body Panel:

Using a 3.5mm hook and pink yarn (if you feel the 3.5mm hook is too small for the bulky yarn and your tension is too tight, feel free to size up to a 4mm).

Row 1: Ch 15, starting in second ch from hook, sc across (14 sts), ch 2, turn.

Row 2: Bo, ch 1 (counts as a stitch), 2sc in next st, [Bo, sc] x 5, Bo, ch 1 (counts as a stitch), 2sc in last st (18 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 3: 2sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc 14, 2sc in each of the last 2 sts (22 sts), ch 2, turn.

Row 4: Bo, ch 1 (counts as a stitch), sc, [Bo, sc] x 9, Bo, 2sc in last st (24 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Sc 24 (24 sts), ch 2, turn.

Row 6: [Bo, sc], repeat [ ] across (24 sts), ch 1, turn.

Rows 7-12: Repeat rows 5 and 6

Row 13: Sc 24 (24 sts), ch 2, turn.

In the next row, we will start the colour-work for the face.

Row 14: In pink Bodec, sc, [Bo, sc] x 2, in cream sc 10, in pink [Bo, sc] x 2, Bo, sc2tog (22 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 15: In pink sc 5, in cream sc 12, in pink sc 5 (22 sts), ch 2, turn.

Row 16: In pink [Bo, sc] x 2, in cream sc 14, in pink [Bo, sc] x 2 (22 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 17: In pink sc 3, in cream sc 16, in pink sc 3 (22 sts), ch 2, turn.

Row 18: In pink Bodec, sc, in cream sc 16, in pink Bo, sc2tog (20 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 19: In pink sc 2, in cream sc 16, in pink sc 2 (20 sts), ch 2, turn.

Row 20: In pink Bo, sc, in cream sc 16, in pink Bo, sc (20 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 21: In pink sc 3, in cream sc 14, in pink sc 3 (20 sts), ch 2, turn.

Row 22: In pink [Bo, sc] x 2, in cream sc 12, in pink [Bo, sc] x 2 (20 sts), ch 1, turn.

All remaining rows are worked in pink.

Row 23: Sc2tog, sc 16, sc2tog (18 sts), ch 2, turn.

Row 24: [Bo, sc], repeat [ ] across (18 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 25: Sc 18 (18 sts), ch 2, turn.

Row 26: Bo, sc2tog, [Bo, sc] x 6, Bo, sc2tog (16 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 27: Sc2tog, sc 12, sc2tog (14 sts), ch 2, turn

Row 28: Bodec, sc2tog, [Bo, sc] x 3, Bodec, sc2tog (10 sts)

Tie off.

Back Body Panel:

The back body panel is worked almost exactly the same as the front, except there is zero colour-work; instead of working the face, it will be all bobbles. The panel is worked entirely in pink.

Rows 1-13: Repeat rows 1-13 of the front panel

Row 14: Bodec, sc, [Bo, sc] x 9, Bo, sc2tog (22 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 15: Sc 22 (22 sts), ch 2, turn.

Row 16: [Bo, sc], repeat [ ] across (22 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 17: Sc 22 (22 sts), ch 2, turn.

Row 18: Bodec, sc, [Bo, sc] x 8, Bo, sc2tog (20 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 19: Sc 20 (20 sts), ch 2, turn.

Row 20: [Bo, sc], repeat [ ] across (20 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 21: Sc 20 (20 sts), ch 2, turn

Row 22: [Bo, sc], repeat [ ] across (20 sts), ch 1, turn

Rows 23-28: Repeat rows 23-28 of front panel.

Tie off. Set panels aside for assembly later.

Outside Ears:

Using 3.25mm hook and pink yarn.

Row 1: Ch 3, starting 2nd ch from hook, sc 2 (2 sts), ch 2, turn

Row 2: *(Bo, sc) into the same st*, repeat * in next st (4 sts), ch 1, turn

Row 3: 2sc into firs st, sc 2, 2sc in last st (6 sts), ch 2, turn

Row 4: Bo, ch 1 (counts as st), sc, Bo, sc, Bo, ch 1 (counts as st), sc (8 sts), ch 1, turn

Row 5: Sc 8 (8 sts), ch 2, turn

Row 6: [Bo, sc], repeat [ ] across (8 sts), ch 1, turn

Row 7: Sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog (6 sts), ch 2, turn

Row 8: [Bo, sc], repeat [ ] across (6 sts), ch 1, turn

Row 9: Sc2tog, sc 2, sc2tog (4 sts), ch 2, turn

Row 10: [Bo, sc], repeat [ ] across (4 sts), ch 1, turn

Row 11: Sc2tog twice (2 sts), ch 2, turn

Row 12: Bo, sc (2 sts)

Tie off and weave in ends. Repeat rows 1-12 for second ear. Set aside for assembly later.

Inside Ears:

Using 3.25mm hook and cream yarn held double. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

Row 1: Ch 3, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 2 (2 sts)

Row 2: 2sc in each st (4 sts)

Row 3: 2sc in first st, sc 2, 2sc in last st (6 sts)

Row 4: 2sc in first st, sc 4, 2sc in last st (8 sts)

Rows 5-6: Sc across (8 sts)

Row 7: Sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog (6 sts)

Row 8: Sc across (6 sts)

Row 9: Sc2tog, sc 2, sc2tog (4 sts)

Row 10: Sc across (4 sts)

Row 11: Sc2tog twice (2 sts)

Row 12: Sc across (2 sts)

Tie off and weave in ends. Repeat rows 1-12 for the second ear.

Take one Inside Ear panel and one Outside Ear panel and place both panels together, lining up the starting tails and edges (the Inside Ear will be slightly smaller than the outside ear). Single crochet around the outside of the panels in pink to join them. You do not need to stuff the ears.

Lamb Amigurumi

Repeat for second ear. Set aside for assembly later.

Hooves:

Using a 3.5mm hook and cream yarn (held single). The hooves are worked in continuous rounds.

Rnd 1: MR 4 sc (4 sts)

Rnd 2: [Sc in first st, 2sc in next], repeat [ ] once more (6 sts)

Rnd 3: [Sc 2, 2sc in next st], repeat [ ] once more (8 sts)

Rnd 4: Sc around (8 sts)

Tie off, leaving a long yarn tail for stitching on later.

Repeat rows 1 to 4 three more times for four hooves in total. Set aside for assembly later.

Bow:

Using 3.25mm hook and worsted weight yarn in colour of your choice. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

Row 1: Ch 4, starting in second ch from hook, sc across (3 sts)

Rows 2-3: Sc across (3 sts)

Row 4: Sc3tog (1 st)

Row 5: Sc 1 (1 st)

Row 6: 3sc into same st (3 sts)

Rows 7-9: Sc across (3 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-9 for second panel. Place both panels together and crochet around. Stuff each side lightly as you crochet around. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Cut a length of yarn in the same colour and wind tightly around the centre. Tie a knot to secure, leaving long yarn tails for stitching it on later.

Repeat the above for the second bow.

Move on to final assembly below!

Assembly:

Step 1: Face and Hooves

Here are the pieces you should now have at this step:

Lamb Amigurumi

First, we need to attach our features to the front panel.

Insert 12mm safety eyes onto the front panel about 3 or 4 stitches in from the left and right sides of the face. The eyes are located in the 5th row of the face counting up from the bottom.

Next, using black crochet thread stitch two little eyelashes above each eye.

Using black crochet thread, stitch a ‘V’ for the nose and a little mouth beneath the nose.

Finally, flatten the hooves so that they are little triangles. Stitch two hooves onto the second full row of bobbles under the face. Place one each on the 3rd bobble in from the left and the right sides of the body. Stitch them on so that the points of the triangle are pointing down and slightly toward each other.

Stitch the other two hooves on the bottom row of bobbles on the first bobble of the row on each side. This time, position the triangles so that the points are facing up and away from each other.

Step 2: Body and Ears

Cut off two lengths of pink yarn approximately 30cm/12″ long each and set them aside for later.

Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides. The back body panel will be slightly bigger/taller than the front panel because of the extra bobbles. This is normal! You can try stretching the front panel slightly if you wish to help the panels line up a little better, but it’s not necessary. As long as you ensure the bobble rows line up as you crochet around, it will work perfectly.

Lamb Amigurumi

Make sure the front is facing you as you crochet around the outside.

Starting on the left side, at the top of the head, begin attaching the panels together by single crocheting around the outside of the panels in pink.

Crochet a few stitches down the head and stop before you reach the middle of the face.

Now we will attach the first ear. Insert the ear between the panels. The ear should be positioned so that it is facing downward and slightly forward so that you can see some of the cream on the inside of the ear.

With a length of yarn that you set aside earlier and your tapestry needle, sew the ear in place between the panels by sewing through all three pieces, the front panel, the ear and the back panel. Since the ear is fairly hefty, you will need to stitch through a few times to make it secure. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body.

Continue crocheting down the head and body. When you get to the ear, you can sc in the stitches of the front panel only (since this section is already sewn shut). Continue crocheting both panels together as normal once past the ear.

Continue crocheting around. When you get to the other side of the body, stop before you get to the middle of the face.

Stuff the body. You will need a lot of stuffing!

When mostly stuffed, attach the second ear the same way you did for the first.

Continue crocheting around. Top up stuffing as you go. The stuffing should be very firm.

Continue crocheting across the top of the head. When you are completely satisfied with the stuffing, slst to beginning st to close. Weave yarn tail back inside.

Stitch the bows onto the top of each ear.

Finish the piece with some needle sculpting for the eyes and you’re done!

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9 thoughts on “Lamb Amigurumi

  1. I love this pattern. I’ve been crocheting since I was 7 years old (I’d like to say that at the age of 35 now I’m at an advanced level),and can not for the life of me figure out row 2 from the front body panel. The other rows seem so much more understandable. Is there a video or tutorial that could assist in in this dilemma?

    1. Hi Vanessa,

      Unfortunately, I don’t have a video for this pattern but I am more than happy to try to help clarify row 2!

      In row 1, you have 14 sts total then you ch 2 and turn (the ch 2 does not count as a stitch). You will work a bobble st in the first st (at the base of the ch 2), then chain 1 (the ch 1 is essentially an increase since it will count as a stitch in the next row), work 2sc into the second st (another increase), then you will work a bobble stitch into the next st and a sc into the fourth st and repeat that 4 more times (10 sts total). Then, in the second last st, work a bobble stitch, then ch 1 (another increase), then work 2sc into the last st (final increase).

      So, row 2 has 4 increases, bringing the stitch count from 14 in row 1 to 18 in row 2 (i.e. you will treat each of the ch 1 stitches at the beginning and end as a new stitch).

      Does that help at all?

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