The Hulk Free Crochet Pattern

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The Hulk Free Crochet Pattern

And now for something completely different!

If you’re familiar with my patterns (or if you browsed around the blog at all), you will know that this type of pattern is not my usual design. But, I love all types of amigurumi and crocheting in general, and it’s fun to mix it up sometimes!

I don’t do commissions often but recently I was asked if I could make a Hulk amigurumi for a gift so I got to work searching for a pattern. I came to realize, however, that there is not a lot out there in Hulk patterns. I was looking for something a little more on the realistic side in terms of proportions (I mean, as realistic as a gigantic, green, muscular humanoid with super-human strength can be). I did come across a few lovely patterns but nothing with the exact look I was going for. So I ended up drafting my own pattern for it. While it took a lot more time and effort, the bonus is that you all get to benefit from it now too! ūüėÄ I’m also a huge Marvel nerd so, for me, it was a super fun project to work on. (Have you seen the Infinity War trailer yet? Eep!)

The pattern is worked in the traditional amigurumi style (i.e. in the round) using US crochet terminology. It’s worked from the feet up and, best of all, there’s basically no sewing involved! Let me repeat that. This pattern contains almost ZERO sewing. Everything is worked seamlessly and crocheted together, except for the two little ears (which you can totally omit if you want to!). Yay!

This pattern incorporates a small amount of tapestry colour-work in rounds 15-17, and rounds 73-82 (legs and head) so I’ve included a section below on how to read those rows and how to change colours. I encourage you to read it before beginning if you don’t have a lot of experience with it.

I also encourage you to follow the sequence of the pattern as I’ve laid it out. Since it’s made seamlessly, the arms must be completed first, before the body, so that you can attach them as you go. Additionally, my patterns usually have a “Pattern” section and a separate “Assembly” section. However, since this pattern is done all in one piece, the “assembly” is done throughout the pattern itself, so make sure to read everything as you go!

I didn’t have a specific size in mind when I started designing but, in order to design and include the musculature shaping, my Hulk ended up being freaking huge, which I guess is fitting. I totally forgot to measure him before sending him off to his new owner, but I would guesstimate his finished measurement to be approximately 33cm/13″ from top to bottom. You can size him down by going down a hook size, or going down in both hook and yarn size.

I really did try to make the pattern as simple as possible, but the shaping combined with the colour-changes resulted in some of the rounds being a little whacky in terms of stitch counts, increases, decreases, etc.

Here’s what I used:

**If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE.**

Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:

In order to indicate the colour-changes in rounds 15-17 and 73-82, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in those rounds and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “Bdec” means to work a sc decrease in black. “G2, P3” means to work the next 2 sc in Green and the next 3 sc in Purple, and so on.

The bonus part of the colour-changes in an amigurumi is that you don’t have to worry about what the inside looks like! This is why I carry my yarn on the back instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go. It prevents any colours from bleeding through where they shouldn’t.

When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again on the next round when you need it.

Colour legend:

G – Green

P – Purple

B – Black

Terms and Special Stitches:

MR – Magic Ring

Sc – single crochet

Inc – increase (work 2 sc in the same st)

Dec – decrease (work 2 sc together). Whenever I decrease in the round, I always use the invisible decrease. I recommend you do too.

Sc3tog – Single crochet three together. Worked exactly the same as an invisible decrease except it’s worked over 3 stitches instead of 2.

BLO – Back Loops Only

Cls – Cluster stitch. This is used in the feet. The cluster is made with 3 dc all into the same st as follows:

  • Double Crochet Cluster: [Yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull through st, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook], repeat [ ] two more times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook.

When you see the term “inc twice” it means to work one increase in each of the next 2 stitches. When you see the term “dec twice”, it means to work two decreases over the next 4 stitches.

Pc – Picot. Ch 3 and slipstitch into the first chain.

Okay, let’s get started! (Or Pin it for later!)

Pin it

Everything is worked in continuous rounds, so you will definitely want to use a stitch marker! It’s absolutely vital that the rounds are worked continuously, otherwise the shaping will not work out correctly.

Fingers (make 10) in Lush:

To make the arms, we need to start with the fingers. Unfortunately, this is by far the worst most tedious and fiddly part of this pattern. Luckily, we’re going to get it out of the way right off the bat!

The key to making the fingers is to keep your stitches loose, especially in the magic ring. You should pull the ring closed, but you do not need to pull it super tight (at least not yet). Same goes for your stitches in rounds 2 and 3. Since you’re only working with three sts around, give yourself some room by lengthening your working yarn on your hook a bit before making a stitch.

Rnd 1: MR 3 sc (3 sts)

Rnd 2-3: Sc around (3 sts).

Tie off. You should now have the original tail from your MR sticking out the opening of your finger. Now you can pull it tightly to securely close the starting MR. Trim the MR tail so it’s not in your way from here on out. If you want, you can weave in all the tails from the last stitch on each finger now as well. I chose to leave these until later and simply poked them back into the hand once it was completed.

Right Arm (make 1) in Lush:

Rnd 1: Now we will join four fingers together (the thumb gets added a few rows later) by single crocheting in the first two stitches of the first finger (leave one stitch unworked), then two stitches of the next finger, and so on for the remaining two fingers. Then you will continue crocheting around the opposite side of the fingers by working the remaining stitch on the back of each of the four fingers (12 sts)

Hopefully this diagram and the photos help to visualize it. The circles in the diagram just represent the top of each finger, with the “X”s being the three stitches around each. You will join the fingers starting at “1”.

 

Rnds 2-3: Sc around (12 sts)

Rnd 4: Join the fifth finger now by sc around the 3 sts of the finger, then sc 12 around the hand (15 sts)

Rnd 5: [Sc 3, dec], repeat [ ] around (12 sts)

Rnd 6: [Sc 2, dec], repeat [ ] around (9 sts)

Rnd 7: [Sc 2, inc], repeat [ ] around (12 sts)

Rnd 8: [Inc, sc 3], repeat [ ] around (15 sts)

Rnd 9: Inc three times, sc 12 (18 sts)

Rnd 10: Sc 1, inc three times, sc 14 (21 sts)

Rnds 11-13: Sc around (21 sts)

Rnd 14: Sc 4, dec, sc 15 (20 sts)

Rnd 15: Sc around (20 sts)

Rnd 16: [Sc 8, dec], repeat [ ] around (18 sts)

Rnd 17: [Sc 7, dec], repeat [ ] around (16 sts)

Rnd 18: [Sc 2, dec], repeat [ ] around (12 sts)

Stuff the arm so far. Continue to stuff as you go.

Rnd 19: [Sc 2, inc], repeat [ ] around (16 sts)

Rnd 20: [Inc, sc 7], repeat [ ] around (18 sts)

Rnd 21: Sc 10, inc three times, sc 5 (21 sts)

Rnd 22: Sc around (21 sts)

Rnd 23: Sc 13, inc three times, sc 5 (24 sts)

Rnds 24-27: Sc around (24 sts)

Rnd 28: [Sc 6, dec], repeat [ ] around (21 sts)

Rnd 29: Sc around (21 sts)

Rnd 30: [Sc 5, dec], repeat [ ] around (18 sts)

Rnd 31: [Sc 5, inc], repeat [ ] around (21 sts)

Tie off. Top up stuffing. Put aside for assembly later.

Left Arm (make 1) in Lush:

Rnd 1: Join four fingers together by single crocheting in the first two stitches of each finger then continue crocheting around the opposite side of the fingers by working the remaining stitch on the back of each of the four fingers, the same way you did for the first hand. (12 sts)

Rnds 2-3: Sc around (12 sts)

Rnd 4:  Sc 8 around the hand, then join the fifth finger by sc around the 3 sts of the finger, then sc 4 of rem sts of the hand (15 sts)

Rnd 5: [Sc 3, dec], repeat [ ] around (12 sts)

Rnd 6: [Sc 2, dec], repeat [ ] around (9 sts)

Rnd 7: [Sc 2, inc], repeat [ ] around (12 sts)

Rnd 8: [Inc, sc 3], repeat [ ] around (15 sts)

Rnd 9: Inc, sc 12, inc twice (18 sts)

Rnd 10: Inc, sc 15, inc twice (21 sts)

Rnds 11-13: Sc around (21 sts)

Rnd 14: Dec, sc 19 (20 sts)

Rnd 15: Sc around (20 sts)

Rnd 16: [Sc 8, dec], repeat [ ] around (18 sts)

Rnd 17: [Sc 7, dec], repeat [ ] around (16 sts)

Rnd 18: [Sc 2, dec], repeat [ ] around (12 sts)

Stuff arm so far. Continue to stuff as you go.

Rnd 19: [Sc 2, inc], repeat [ ] around (16 sts)

Rnd 20: [Inc, sc 7], repeat [ ] around (18 sts)

Rnd 21: Sc 15, inc three times (21 sts)

Rnd 22: Sc around (21 sts)

Rnd 23: Sc 18, inc three times (24 sts)

Rnds 24-27: Sc around (24 sts)

Rnd 28: [Sc 6, dec], repeat [ ] around (21 sts)

Rnd 29: Sc around (21 sts)

Rnd 30: [Sc 5, dec], repeat [ ] around (18 sts)

Rnd 31: [Sc 5, inc], repeat [ ] around (21 sts)

Tie off. Top up stuffing. Put aside for assembly later.

Here are your completed arms from all sides:

Ears (make 2) in Lush:

Row 1: Ch 5, dc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc, sc (3 sts)

Tie off.

I failed to take a pic of the ears before attacing them, but here they are after being sewn on:

Hulk ears
Hulk is a bit of a blockhead :/

Move on to the body section below!

Body (starting with the foot) in Lush:

Rnd 1: Ch 5, sc 3, sc 4 in last ch, continue on opp side of chs, sc 2, sc 3 in last ch (12 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc, sc 3, inc twice, sc 4, inc twice (17 sts)

Rnd 3: In BLO, sc around (17 sts)

Rnd 4: Cls, sc 6, dec, sc 4, cls 4 (16 sts)

Rnd 5: Sc 5, dec twice, sc 3, dec twice (12 sts)

Here’s how your feet will look at this point:

Rnd 6: Dec, sc 8, dec (10 sts)

Rnd 7: Dec, sc 6, dec (8 sts)

Stuff your foot.

Rnd 8: Sc 3, inc twice, sc 3 (10 sts)

Rnd 9: Sc around (10 sts)

Rnd 10: Sc 4, inc four times, sc 2 (14 sts)

Rnd 11: Sc around (14 sts)

Rnd 12: Sc 6, inc five times, sc 3 (19 sts)

Rnds 13-14: Sc around (19 sts)

Now we will start the colour-work of the pants.

Rnd 15: G2, P1, G6, P1, G5, P2, G2 (19 sts)

Rnd 16: G2, P2, G4, P2, Gdec twice, P4, G1 (17 sts)

Rnd 17: G2, P3, G2, P4, G1, P5 (17 sts)

Switch to Purple only. Rounds 18 to 38 are completed entirely in Purple.

Rnd 18: Sc around (17 sts)

Rnd 19: Sc 5, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 5, inc (20 sts)

Rnd 20: Sc around (20 sts)

Rnd 21: [Sc 4, inc], repeat [ ] around (24 sts)

Rnd 22: [Inc, sc 5], repeat [ ] around (28 sts)

Rnd 23: Sc around (28 sts)

Rnd 24: [Sc 6, inc], repeat [ ] around (32 sts)

Rnds 25-27: Sc around (32 sts)

Tie off. Put aside for now. Repeat rounds 1-27 for the second leg but do not tie off. Stuff your legs. Continue to round 28 below.

Here’s how your legs will look before joining:

Rnd 28: Sc 18 sts around the first leg, then join the second leg by single crocheting into the 2nd st from the end of the previous row, then continue to sc 46 around both legs (64 sts)

Here are the legs after joining:

Rnds 29-30: Sc around (64 sts)

Rnd 31: Sc 8, dec twice, [sc 12, dec twice], repeat [ ] twice more, sc 4 (56 sts)

Rnd 32: Sc 15, dec twice, sc 24, dec twice, sc 9 (52 sts)

Rnd 33: [Sc 11, dec], repeat [ ] around (48 sts)

Rnd 34: sc around (48 sts)

Rnd 35: [Dec, sc 10], repeat [ ] around (44 sts)

Rnd 36: [Sc 9, dec], repeat [ ] around (40 sts)

Rnd 37: [Dec, sc 8], repeat [ ] around (36 sts)

Rnd 38: Sc around (36 sts)

Switch to Green.

Rnd 39: In BLO, sc around (36 sts)

Rnd 40: Sc around (36 sts)

Rnd 41: Sc 3, inc, sc 17, inc, sc 14 (38 sts)

Rnd 42: Sc around (38 sts)

Rnd 43: Sc 4, inc, sc 18, inc, sc 14 (40 sts)

Rnd 44: Sc 5, inc, sc 19, inc, sc 14 (42 sts)

Rnd 45: Sc 5, inc, sc 20, inc, sc 15 (44 sts)

Rnd 46: Sc 6, inc, sc 21, inc, sc 15 (46 sts)

Rnd 47: Sc 6, inc, sc 22, inc, sc 16 (48 sts)

Rnd 48: Sc 7, inc, sc 23, inc, sc 16 (50 sts)

Stuff the body so far. Continue to stuff as you go.

Now we will start the shaping of the pec muscles.

Rnd 49: Sc 12, inc seven times, dec twice, inc seven  times, sc 20 (62 sts)

Rnd 50: Sc 26, dec, sc 34 (61 sts)

Rnd 51: [Sc 8, dec], repeat [ ] once more, sc 5, dec, sc 3, dec, [Sc 8, dec], repeat [ ] once more, sc 7, dec (54 sts)

Rnd 52: [Sc 7, dec], repeat [ ] around (48 sts)

Rnds 53-55: Sc around (48 sts)

Now we will join the arms.

Rnd 56: Sc 10, sc 21 around the arm, sc 26 along body, sc 21 around the second arm, sc 12 along rem sts of body (90 sts)

Rnd 57: [Sc 7, dec], repeat [ ] around (80 sts)

Rnd 58: [Dec, Sc 6], repeat [ ] around (70 sts)

Rnd 59: [Sc 3, dec], repeat [ ] around (56 sts)

Rnd 60: [Sc 2, dec], repeat [ ] around (42 sts)

Rnd 61: [Sc 1, dec] ,repeat [ ] around (28 sts)

Rnd 62: Dec around (14 sts)

Rnds 63-64: Sc around (14 sts)

Top up stuffing.

Rnd 65: [Sc 1, inc], repeat [ ] around (21 sts)

Rnd 66: [Sc 2, inc], repeat [ ] around (28 sts)

Rd 67: [Inc, sc 3], repeat [ ] around (35 sts)

Rnd 68: [Sc 4, Inc], repeat [ ] around (42 sts)

Rnd 69: Sc 9, [sc 3] in same st, sc 7, [sc 3] in same st, sc 14, [sc 3] in same st, sc 7, [sc 3] in same st, sc 1 (50 sts)

Rnd 70: Sc 10, [sc 3] in same st, sc 9, [sc 3] in same st, sc 6, dec, sc 8, [sc 3] in same st, sc 9, [sc 3] in same st, dec (56 sts)

Rnds 71-72: Sc around (56 sts)

Now we will start incorporating colour-changes for the hair.

Rnd 73: B11, G43, B2 (56 sts)

Rnd 74: B4, Bdec, B6, G4, Gdec, G14, Gdec, G12, Gdec, G5, B3 (52 sts)

Rnd 75: B12, G36, B4 (52 sts)

Rnd 76: B13, G34, B5 (52 sts)

Rnd 77: Bdec, B12, Gdec, G14, Gdec, G10, Gdec, G2, B6 (48 sts)

Rnd 78: Bdec, B6, Bdec, [B3] in same st, Bdec, B1, G3, Gdec, [G3] in same st, G2, Gdec, G7, Gdec, G2, [G3] in same st, Gdec, G3, B2, Bdec, [B3] in same st, B2 (48 sts)

Rnd 79: B14, G25, B9 (48 sts)

Rnd 80: B15, G2, B1, G3, B2, G4, B2, G5, B2, G2, B10 (48 sts)

Rnd 81: B16, G1, B2, G3, B3, G3, B3, G3, B14 (48 sts)

Rnd 82: B21, G2, B4, G1, B20 (48 sts)

Switch to all black for the remaining rows.

Rnds 83-86: Sc around (48 sts)

Now you will insert your 9mm eyes, as well as stitch on your eyebrows, mouth and ears. I used Red Heart Super Value in Black for the eyebrows, and black crochet thread for the mouth.

Begin stuffing the head. Stuff as you go.

Rnd 87: Sc 9, sc3tog, sc 7, sc3tog, sc 12, sc3tog, sc 7, sc3tog, sc 1 (40 sts)

Rnd 88: Sc 8, sc3tog, sc 5, sc3tog, sc 10, sc3tog, sc 5, sc3tog (32 sts)

Rnd 89: Sc 7, sc3tog, sc 3, sc3tog, sc 8, sc3tog, sc 3, sc3tog (25 sts) *This round will go over into the next round due to the last “sc3tog”.

Rnd 90: Sc 5, sc3tog, sc 1, sc3tog, sc 6, sc3tog, sc 1, sc3tog (17 sts) *This round will go over into the next round due to the last “sc3tog”.

Rnd 91: [Dec twice, sc 3] repeat [ ] around (10 sts)

Rnd 92: Dec around (5 sts)

Top up stuffing. Tie off, leaving a tail for weaving the top closed. With your tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of the remaining stitches all the way around then down into the top of the head. Bring the yarn tail out the back of the head and pull it firmly, closing the top of the head. Poke yarn tail back inside.

Ripped Waistband in Light Damson:

The ripped waistband is the finishing touch on this guy! The waistband will be worked in the exposed front loops of round 39 (remember way back in round 39 when you crocheted in the Back Loops Only?)

Join your Light Damson yarn at a stitch in the middle of the back of your Hulk.

Rnd 1: Sc 3, [sc, pc, sc] in same st, sc 5, [sc, pc, sc] in same st, sc 2, [sc, pc, sc] in same st two times, sc 3, [sc, pc, sc] in same st, slst 4, [sc, pc, sc] in same st three times, sc 4, [sc, pc, sc] in same st two times, sc 3, [sc, pc, sc] in same st.

Join to first st and tie off. Poke the yarn tail back inside.

Hulk abs
Close up of the waistband (and those abs!)

You made it! Hulk smash in victory!

 

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