Frankenstein’s Monster Free Crochet Pattern

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Frankenstein’s Monster Free Crochet Pattern

Hi, everyone! I’m squeezing in one more creepy-cute pattern before Halloween next week. I just had to make a buddy for my little Vampire ami. Hey, even monsters need friends! Plus, they’ll be great companions when I carve pumpkins this coming weekend, which I’m super excited about! In my post for the Vampire ami, I shared some pictures of past pumpkins that me and my guy have carved in the last few years. It’s one of my favourite things about Halloween! So I’ll be sure to share a picture of our finished pumpkins next week on Facebook!

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as our Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. Frankie has 10 separate pieces, so there is a fair amount of sewing and assembling involved. This pattern also incorporates the tapestry (or intarsia) crochet technique and has a lot of colour-work.

His finished measurement is approximately 25cm/10″ from top to bottom.

Let’s get started! I encourage you to read everything thoroughly before beginning, particularly if you don’t have a lot of experience with tapestry crochet.

Here’s what I used:

**If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE.**

Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:

Everything is worked in single crochet stitches. So, in order to indicate the colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in any lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “Binc” means to work a sc increase in black yarn. “G3, B4” means to work the next 3 sc in Green and the next 4 sc in Black, and so on.

Due to the colour-changes, you will have several skeins or balls of yarn attached to your project at once. For example, I opted to use four balls of black yarn, one for each spike of the hair. I did this by taking one skein of yarn and separating it into several smaller balls. This cuts down significantly on having to carry your yarn.

The bonus part of the colour-changes in an amigurumi is that you don’t have to worry about what the back of your panels look like! This is why I carry my yarn on the back instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go. It prevents any colours from bleeding through where they shouldn’t. As long as you always carry your yarn on the back of your panel, you won’t have to weave in any ends and you’ll have a beautiful smooth front with clear lines and colours.

When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.

*Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel!* So, for example, when you are working on a row where the wrong side of the panel is facing you, you will have to make a conscious effort to pull your yarn toward you to the wrong side of the panel when dropping your yarn during a colour-change. This is because it will naturally drop to the side furthest away from you if you don’t. It doesn’t matter which side you choose as your “right” or “wrong” side, since the stitches look the same (unlike when working in the round), just as long as you’re consistent in carrying your yarn!

Here is the colour legend:

G – Green (Lush)

C – Chocolate (brown)

E – Evergreen (dark green)

B – Black

Front Body (make 1 panel). Start with Lush:

The panels are worked from the bottom up, starting with the legs.

*Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row*

The first 5 rows are worked entirely in Lush.

Row 1: Ch 6, sc 5 (5 sts)

Row 2: Inc, sc 3, inc (7 sts)

Row 3: Inc, sc 5, inc (9 sts)

Row 4: Sc across (9 sts)

Row 5: Inc, sc 7, inc (11 sts)

Now we will start incorporating colour-changes for the pants.

Row 6: C1, G7, C1, G2 (11 sts)

Row 7: G2, C2, G6, C1 (11 sts)

Row 8: Cinc, C1, G3, C4, G1, [G1, C1] in same st (13 sts)

Row 9: C1, G1, C6, G1, C4 (13 sts)

Row 10: C13 (13 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-10 for the second leg but do not tie off. You will now have two separate leg pieces, like so:

Now we will join both leg pieces together by crocheting across both pieces in row 11. Rows 11 to 20 are worked entirely in Chocolate (brown).

Row 11: Sc across (26 sts)

Row 12: Inc, sc 24, inc (28 sts)

Rows 13-20: Sc across (28 sts)

Now we will incorporate colour-changes for the shirt.

Row 21: C4, E20, C4 (28 sts)

Rows 22 to 30 are worked entirely in Evergreen (dark green).

Row 22: Dec, sc 24, dec (26 sts)

Rows 23-24: Sc across (26 sts)

Row 25: Dec, sc 22, dec (24 sts)

Rows 26-27: Sc across (24 sts)

Row 28: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)

Row 29: Dec, sc 18, dec (20 sts)

Row 30: Dec twice, sc 12, dec twice (16 sts)

Now we will incorporate colour-changes for the head.

Row 31: Edec twice, in BLO G8, Edec twice (12 sts)

Rows 32 to 44 are worked entirely in Lush (green).

Row 32: In Lush, ch 8, sc 7 along chs, then sc 12 along row (19 sts)

Row 33: In Lush, ch 8, inc in second ch from hook, sc 6 along remaining chs, sc 18 across row, inc (28 sts)

Row 34: Inc, sc 26, inc (30 sts)

Rows 35-44: Sc across (30 sts)

Now we will start incorporating colour-changes for the hair.

Row 45: G18, B1, G11 (30 sts)

Row 46: B1, G9, B2, G17, B1 (30 sts)

Row 47: B2, G7, B1, G7, B4, G7, B2 (30 sts)

Row 48: B3, G5, B6, G5, B3, G5, B3 (30 sts)

Row 49: B4, G3, B5, G3, B8, G3, B4 (30 sts)

Row 50: B5, G1, B10, G1, B7, G1, B5 (30 sts)

The remaining rows are worked entirely in Black.

Row 51: Sc across (30 sts)

Row 52: Dec, sc 26, dec (28 sts)

Row 53: Sc across (28 sts)

Row 54: Dec, sc 24, dec (26 sts)

Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.

Back Body (make 1 panel) Start with Lush:

Rows 1-42 are worked exactly the same as the Front Panel above.

Row 43: G7, B16, G7 (30 sts)

Row 44: G4, B22, G4 (30 sts)

Row 45: G1, B28, G1 (30 sts)

The remaining rows are worked entirely in Black.

Rows 46-51: Sc across (30 sts)

Row 52: Dec, sc 26, dec (28 sts)

Row 53: Sc across (28 sts)

Row 54: Dec, sc 24, dec (26 sts)

Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.

Arms (make 4 panels in twos as explained below). Start with Evergreen.

Row 1: Ch 5, sc 4 (4 sts)

Rows 2-7: Sc across (4 sts)

Switch to Lush.

Rows 8-10: Sc across (4 sts)

Row 11: Dec twice (2 sts)

Tie off.

Repeat rows 1-11 for second panel. Do not tie off second panel. Put both panels together, matching up all sides and colours. Chain 1 and sc around the entire piece. (Sc, ch, Sc) into each corner of row 1. Stuff when you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off. Repeat for second arm.  Set these aside for assembly later.

Bolts (make 4 panels in twos as explained below) in Grey Heather:

Row 1: Ch 4, sc across (3 sts)

Row 2: Sc across (3 sts)

Row 3: Ch 3, sc 2 along chs, continue to sc 3 along row (5 sts)

Row 4: Ch 3, sc 2 along chs, continue to sc 5 along row (7 sts)

Row 5: Sc across (7 sts)

Tie off.

Repeat rows 1-5 for second panel. Do not tie off second panel. Put both panels together, matching up all sides. Chain 1 and sc around the entire piece. (Sc, ch, Sc) into each of the 6 corners (4 corners around the bolt section and two corners of Row 1). I didn’t stuff the bolts but feel free to stuff them if you want! Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off. Repeat for second bolt.  Set these aside for assembly later.

Assembly:

Step 1: Eyes, Mouth, and Scars

First we need to attach all of our facial features to the front panel.

The first thing I did was insert 12mm safety eyes between 9 and 10 rows up from the top of the shirt.

Stitch on the mouth using black yarn.

Finally, using black yarn, stitch on some scars by making one long stitch and then three or four small stitches across it. Tie knots in the back to secure.

Step 2: Body, Bolts, and Arms

Okay, here are all the pieces you should now have at this step.

Cut off two lengths of Lush yarn and two lengths of Evergreen yarn about 30cm/12″ long each and set them aside for later.

Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides and colours.

**Make sure the front of your Frankie is facing you as you crochet around the outside of the piece.**

Starting on the left side of the head, begin attaching the panels together by chaining one and single crocheting around the outside of the panels starting in Black.

As you crochet along the outside, you will need to switch colours where appropriate. When switching colours, insert your hook into the last stitch of Colour A. Pull up a loop in Colour A. Then yarn over in Colour B to complete the stitch. Continue with Colour B until you need to switch again.

Stop when you’re about half-way down the side of the head (after only two or three green sts) and pull up a long loop.

With your tapestry needle and a length of Lush yarn that you set aside earlier, place the first bolt between the panels at the bottom of the head (right above the corner) and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the bolt, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body.

Continue crocheting down the head. When you get to the bolt, simply crochet in the stitches of the front panel only, since this portion is already sewn shut.

Crochet across the bottom of the head and then switch to Evergreen at the top of the shirt. Stop after a couple of stitches of Evergreen and pull up a loop.

With your tapestry needle and a length of Evergreen yarn that you set aside earlier, place the first arm between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the arm, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body.

Continue crocheting around. Remember, when you get to the arm, simply crochet in the stitches of the front panel only.

Switch colours where appropriate when you get to the pants, then back to green for the leg, and then back again for the pants, and so on for the next leg.

Stop when you’ve crocheted about half-way up the body on the other side. Pull up a long loop. Stuff the legs and body.

Place the second arm and attach it the same way you did for the first.

Continue crocheting up the body. Stop when you’ve crocheted across the bottom of the head and pull up a loop. Place the second bolt the same way you did for the first.

Continue crocheting up the head, switching to Black where appropriate.

Finish stuffing the body.

Continue crocheting around. Top up stuffing as you go. Close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.

That’s it! You’re done!

Happy Halloween!

 

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