A while back I released the pattern for Pikachu, which was a big hit! I had no idea there were so many Pokémon fans reading my blog. Since Pikachu was so well received, I asked you: if I were to design another Pokémon, what would you want it to be?

The overwhelming response was Eevee! I was more than happy to oblige. Eevee is an adorable Pokémon and I loved the idea of incorporating some fur yarn into this design.

That being said, you don’t have to use fur yarn if you don’t want to! I haven’t tried it myself, but I think this pattern would look just as great using a regular worsted weight in cream for the fur parts.

Let’s get started!

The Details

As you probably noticed right from the get-go, this pattern uses faux fur yarn for the plume of fur around Eevee’s neck. I used a lesser known brand but you can use Lion Brand’s Go For Faux. The fur yarn is a bulky (category 5) weight yarn, which adds somewhat more of a challenge to this pattern than some of my other colour-worked patterns for two reasons. First, the very nature of fuzzy yarn is that the stitches are a bit harder to see; you’ll be relying a lot on feel.

Second, I have not adjusted the hook size to account for the bulky yarn. Yep, you read that right. You will be using a 3.25mm hook with the bulky yarn! It has to be worked this way because if you sized up the hook, your gauge will be all wrong for the parts using worsted weight yarn. Even if you sized up the hook for only the fur parts, the proportions will be totally off. So, a 3.25mm hook is used throughout. What this means is that your tension for the fur sections will be very tight.

There are some fur yarns out there that are lighter in weight than the Go For Faux; if you are able to find a worsted weight fur yarn that you like, by all means, use it! You can just adjust your tension to match the rest of pattern, so that it’s the same tension throughout. Easy peasy!

One last note on the Go For Faux. The line also comes in a Thick & Quick version. The T&Q will NOT work for this pattern. The Thick & Quick is a Jumbo (category 7) yarn and it absolutely will be too big to make this pattern work.

Finally, a note on the eyes. I cut pieces out of felt and sewed them on, then lined the eyes with crochet thread to give Eevee that anime look. But there are other options! Here are some other eye options:

• Crocheted eyes: If you feel like experimenting a little, try crocheting the oval eyes by crocheting around a base chain in the round;
• Felted eyes: Use a felting technique with wool/roving;
• Safety eyes: Eevee would look just as adorable with regular safety eyes.

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. Eevee has just 4 separate pieces (albeit somewhat involved pieces). This pattern incorporates the tapestry (or intarsia) crochet technique and has a fair bit of colour-work involved so please be sure to read the “Reading this Pattern” section!

The finished measurements are approximately 25cm/10″ high by 27cm/10.5″ wide.

Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)

If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE or through the “Shop It” button above!

Materials:

(Affiliate links coming at you!)

• 3.25mm hook for main (I use THESE hooks!);
• Easy Knit Fantastic Faux Fur by Luv in Ivory (this brand is hard to source so, as mentioned, feel free to use Lion Brand Go for Faux Yarn in Baked Alaska(one 100g skein);
• Bernat Premium in Milk Coffee for main (less than half a skein);
• Bernat Premium in Taupe Heather for inside of ears (very small amounts);
• Black crochet thread for mouth, nose, eyes, and eyebrows;
• Felt in brown, black and white for eyes;
• Sewing thread in black, brown and white;
• Sewing needle;
• Stitch Markers;
• Stuffing;
• Tapestry needle.

Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:

Everything is worked in single crochet stitches, unless otherwise specified. So, in order to indicate the colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. Here are some examples:

• “Finc” means to work a sc increase in fur yarn.
• “F10, B7” means to work the next 10 sc in fur and the next 7 sc in Brown.
• “Fdec, B8, Fdec” means to work a regular sc decrease in fur, then work the next 8 stitches in brown, then work another sc decrease in fur, and so on.

Due to the colour-changes, you will have several skeins or balls of yarn attached to your project at once. For example, cut off a couple of small balls of brown yarn so that you can use one on each side. That way, you do not need to carry the yarn inside the stitch or carry it all the way across the back of the panel. Do the same for the fur for each side.

When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour X and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour Y, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour Y. Drop your working yarn in Colour X and continue with Colour Y. You will pick your Colour X working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.

Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel! This will be different depending on whether you’re working an odd or even row. So, for the front panel, whenever you are working an odd-numbered row (row 1, 3, 5, etc), the right side of your panel will be facing you. When you’re working an even-numbered row, the wrong side will be facing you.

This will be the opposite for the back panel. This will ensure that all the yarn ends are facing the inside when the panels are matched up.

Colour legend:

B – Brown (main – Milk Coffee)

D – Dark Brown (for ears – Taupe Heather)

F – Fur

Terms and Stitches:

Ch – Chain

Slst – Slip stitch

Sc – Single Crochet (again, in rows with colour changes, sc stitches will be indicated with the Colour Legend letter instead of “sc”)

Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease

Sc3tog – Single crochet 3 stitches together

Pattern

Front Body Panel:

You will make 1 panel using a 3.25mm hook. Start with Brown. The panel is worked from the bottom up. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row unless specified otherwise.

Hind Leg:

We will start with the hind leg, then move onto the right foreleg and finally the left foreleg and the rest of the body where we will join them all together.

Row 1: Ch 4, Sc 3 across (3 sts)

Row 2: Sc 2, inc (4 sts)

Row 3: Inc, sc 1, dec (4 sts)

Row 4: Inc twice, sc 1, inc (7 sts)

Row 5: Inc, sc 5, inc (9 sts)

Row 6: Sc 8, inc (10 sts)

Tie off. Set aside for assembly later.

Right Foreleg:

Row 1: Ch 4, sc 3 across (3 sts)

Row 2: Sc across (3 sts)

Row 3: Inc, sc 2 (4 sts)

Rows 4-5: Sc across (4 sts)

Tie off. Set aside.

Body starting with Left Foreleg:

Row 1: Ch 4, sc 3 across (3 sts)

Rows 2-4: Sc across (3 sts)

Row 5: Sc 2, [Sc 1, F1] into same st (4 sts)

In the next row we will join the Right Foreleg by crocheting across both pieces. Turn the Right Foreleg so that the wrong side is facing you (i.e. the starting yarn tail will be on the right).

Row 6: F4, join Right Foreleg, Finc into first st, F1, B2 (9 sts)

Row 7: F9 (9 sts)

In the next row we will join the Hind Leg by crocheting across both pieces. Turn the Hind Leg so that the wrong side is facing you (i.e. the starting yarn tail will be on the right).

Row 8: Finc, F7, Finc, join Hind Leg, F1 in first st, B9 (21 sts)

Row 9: B7, F13, Finc (22 sts)

Row 10: Finc, F15, B6 (23 sts)

Row 11: Bdec, B3, F18 (22 sts)

Row 12: Finc, F18, B3 (23 sts)

Row 13: Bdec, B1, F20 (22 sts)

Row 14: Finc, F19, Fdec (22 sts)

Rows 15-16: F22 (22 sts)

Row 17: Finc, F19, Fdec (22 sts)

Row 18: Fdec, F6, B7, F7 (21 sts)

Row 19: Fdec, F4, B10, F4, Finc (21 sts)

Row 20: F5, B11, F5 (21 sts)

Row 21: Fdec, F2, B13, F2, Fdec (19 sts)

Row 22: F2, B14, F1, Fdec (18 sts)

Row 23: Bdec, B12, Bdec twice (15 sts)

Row 24: Binc, B13, Binc (17 sts)

Row 25: B17 (17 sts)

In the next row, we will start the first ear.

Row 26: B17, in brown, ch 11, turn (17 sts + 11 chs)

Row 27: B10 along chs, B15, Bdec (26 sts)

In the next row, we will start the colour-work for the inside of the ear.

Row 28: B16, D8, [D1, B1] in same st, Binc (28 sts)

Row 29: Binc, D9, B16, Bdec (28 sts)

In the next row, crochet only part way across the row before chaining and turning.

Row 30: B14 (14 sts)

Row 31: B12, Bdec (13 sts)

Row 32: Bdec, B9, Bdec (11 sts)

Row 33: Bdec, B7, Bdec (9 sts)

Row 34: B7, Bdec (8 sts)

Tie off.

Turn your work so that the ear is pointing to the left. Skip 2 sts on the ear (immediately to the left of the head) and reinsert your hook into the 3rd stitch of row 30 and join your yarn. Finish the ear as follows:

Row 35: B3, D8, Binc (13 sts)

Row 36: [B1, D1], D7, B1, Bdec twice (12 sts)

Row 37: Bdec twice, B7, Binc (11 sts)

Tie off.

Now, position your panel so that the ear is pointing to the right. Insert your hook into the 5th stitch from the right on the top of the head. Complete the other ear as follows:

Row 38: B1, D2, B1 (4 sts)

Row 39: B1, D2, Binc (5 sts)

Rows 40-42: B1, D3, B1 (5 sts)

Row 43: Binc, D3, B1 (6 sts)

Rows 44-45: B1, D4, B1 (6 sts)

Row 46: B1, D3, B2 (6 sts)

Row 47: Bdec, D3, B1 (5 sts)

Row 48: B1, D2, B2 (5 sts)

Row 49: Bdec, D2, B1 (4 sts)

Row 50: B1, D1, B2 (4 sts)

Row 51: Bdec, B2 (3 sts)

Row 52: Sc3tog (1 st)

Tie off.

Back Body Panel:

The back panel is worked with the same stitch counts as the front body panel, but you do not need to work the colour-work of the ears.

Work Rows 1 to 27 of the front panel. Work the remaining rows as follows:

Row 28: Sc 24, inc twice (28 sts)

Row 29: Inc, Sc 25, dec (28 sts)

Work rows 30 to 34 of the front panel.

Turn your work so that the ear is pointing to the left. Skip 2 sts on the ear (immediately to the left of the head) and reinsert your hook into the 3rd stitch of row 30 and join your yarn. Finish the ear as follows:

Row 35: Sc 11, inc (13 sts)

Row 36: Inc, sc 8, dec twice (12 sts)

Row 37: Dec twice, sc 7, inc (11 sts)

Tie off.

Now, position your panel so that the ear is pointing to the right. Insert your hook into the 5th stitch from the right on the top of the head. Complete the other ear in brown as follows:

Row 38: Sc 4 (4 sts)

Row 39: Sc 3, inc (5 sts)

Rows 40-42: Sc 5 (5 sts)

Row 43: Inc, sc 4 (6 sts)

Rows 44-46: Sc 6 (6 sts)

Row 47: Dec, sc 4 (5 sts)

Row 48: Sc 5 (5 sts)

Row 49: Dec, sc 3 (4 sts)

Row 50: Sc 4 (4 sts)

Row 51: Dec, sc 2 (3 sts)

Row 52: Sc3tog (1 st)

Tie off. Set aside for assembly later.

Tail:

Using a 3.25mm hook and starting with brown yarn. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

Row 1: Ch 8, sc across (7 sts)

Row 2: Sc 5, inc twice (9 sts)

Row 3: Inc, sc 8 (10 sts)

Row 4: Inc, sc 8, inc (12 sts)

Row 5: Inc, sc 11 (13 sts)

Row 6: Inc, sc 12 (14 sts)

In the next row, we will start the colour-work.

Row 7: Binc, B1, F1, B10, Binc (16 sts)

Row 8: B12, F2, B1, Binc (17 sts)

Row 9: F5, B12 (17 sts)

Row 10: B9, F1, B3, F3, Finc (18 sts)

Row 11: F5, B1, F3, B9 (18 sts)

Row 12: B10, F8 (18 sts)

Row 13: F8, B2, F1, B7 (18 sts)

Row 14: Bdec, B5, F2, B2, F7 (17 sts)

Row 15: F11, B4, Bdec (16 sts)

Row 16: Bdec, B4, F10 (15 sts)

Row 17: Fdec, F8, B3, Bdec (13 sts)

Row 18: Bdec twice, B1, F6, Fdec (10 sts)

In the next row, you will crochet only part way across the next row before chaining and turning.

Row 19: F4 (4 sts)

Row 20: Fdec twice (2 sts)

Row 21: Fdec (1 st)

Tie off.

Repeat all of the above for the second panel. Tie off second panel. Put both panels together, matching up all sides and sc around the entire piece. (Sc, ch, Sc) all into the same stitch at both the bottom and the tip of the tail. Begin to stuff once you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around and continue to top up stuffing as you go. Slst to beginning st to close. Tie off. Set aside for assembly later.

Move on to assembly below!

Assembly:

Step 1: Face

First, we need to attach and stitch on our facial features to the front panel.

For each eye, I cut out three ovals:

• A brown oval measuring 16mm wide x 30mm high;
• A black oval measuring 14mm wide x 23mm high with two notches cut out of the bottom of the oval; and
• A white oval measuring 6mm wide x 8mm tall.

With a sewing needle and white sewing thread, stitch the white oval onto the black oval. Then, with black thread, sew the black oval onto the brown oval so that the tops of the ovals line up.

Position the eyes on Eevee so that they are at about a 45 degree angle to the rows (since Eevee’s head is titled to the side, you will want to make sure the eyes are also titled that way). Stitch the eyes onto the front panel using sewing thread and a sewing needle. Alternatively, you could try gluing the felt on using hot glue, fabric glue, or crazy glue.

Finally, border the felt eyes using black crochet thread and stitch it down using sewing thread and a needle.

As I mentioned above, you can try alternative eyes with any of the following methods:

• Crocheted eyes: If you feel like experimenting a little, try crocheting the oval eyes by crocheting around a base chain in the round;
• Felted eyes: Use a felting technique with wool/roving;
• Safety eyes.

Next, using black crochet thread, stitch the thread around a stitch between the eyes (toward the bottom of the eyes) a few times to make the nose. Tie off at the back of the panel.

Using black crochet thread, stitch on two little “eyebrow” marks at the top/inside of each eye.

Using black crochet thread, crochet two vertical stitches on each leg to create paws.

Finally, stitch on the mouth using black crochet thread. I used a sewing needle and thread to stitch it down exactly where I wanted it.

Step 2: Body and Tail

Okay, here are all the pieces you should now have at this step.

Cut off a length of brown yarn about 30 cms (12 inches) long. Put aside for later.

Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides and colours.

Make sure the front of Eevee is facing you as you crochet around the outside.

Starting on the left side, at the top of the ear, begin attaching the panels together by single crocheting around the outside of the panels.

Crocheting around the piece is going to be one of the more challenging parts of this project because you will need to change from fur to worsted weight and back a few times. When changing colours, don’t cut the yarn but instead, tuck the colour that you no longer need down between the panels before you pick up the new colour. That way, when you need it again, you can pick up the colour from the inside of the amigurumi when you need it again. This prevents you from having to cut and reattach it every time.

Crochet down the head and switch to fur where appropriate. Switch back to brown for the first leg. Crochet around all three legs in brown (you do not need to switch to fur between each leg!). Stop when you get to the bottom of the hind leg.

Stuff the legs and body.

Now, with your tapestry needle and the length of brown yarn that you set aside earlier, place the tail between the panels and attach it by sewing through all three pieces; the top panel, the tail, and the bottom panel. When finished, tie a knot to secure and hide the yarn tails between the panels of the body.

Continue single crocheting up the side of the body. When you get to the tail, simply sc in the stitches of the front panel only, since this part is already sewn shut. Once you are past the tail, continue single crocheting both panels together as normal, switching back to fur where necessary.

Top up stuffing.

Switch back to brown where appropriate. Crochet up and around the ear, being sure to [sc, ch 1, sc] all into the same stitch at the tip of the ear. Stuff the ear as you crochet long the top of the ear.

Continue to stuff Eevee. This is your last chance to stuff the body and head to your satisfaction so make sure you’re happy with it. Firmly stuff the face but do not overstuff it; you will want the face to be more or less flat so that the eyes are not distorted.

Continue single crocheting across the top of the head and up the ear. Stuff the ear and top up stuffing as you go. 

When you are satisfied with the stuffing, close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.

Step 3: Sculpting

This final step is vital to the finished look of your Eevee! Cut a long piece of brown yarn and, with your tapestry needle, start on the back side of Eevee on one side of the face, and weave the yarn through the back, all the way through the amigurumi and out the front. Weave the yarn into the next stitch at the front and all the way through and out the back. Tug on the yarn to sculpt across the neck area of Eevee. Continue all the way across.

Do this just above the fur line of the face so that the stitches are hidden by the fur.

Finish by tying a knot in the back and poking the yarn tails back inside.

You’re done!

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