Classic Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern


Classic Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern

How about one last pattern for the year? I’m excited to share a new crochet pattern for this super cuddly Classic Teddy Bear!

I just love how chubby he turned out. I added some ribbon around his neck to add some extra charm to this little guy (not that he needs it!) but you could crochet him a scarf or bowtie instead.

I used Lion Brand Go For Faux for this pattern. Fur yarn can be tricky to work with. Here are some of my tips:

  • Use stitch markers at the beginning and end of each row;
  • Use your fingers to feel the stitches;
  • Look down at your work from above (rather than from the side). This helps you see the ‘V’ of each stitch;
  • Use your fingers to pull the fur back, away from the stitches to better see the ‘V’ of each stitch.
  • When all else fails, don’t get discouraged and don’t worry too much about it! The fur yarn camouflages mistakes. : )

The Details

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as my Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. The body panels are worked flat, the arms are worked in continuous rounds, and the ears are worked in turned rows.

Since fur yarn is difficult to work into a magic ring, the ears and arms and worked into a starting chain instead.

The finished measurements are approximately 27cm/11″ from top to bottom.

Let’s get started! (Or Pin/Shop for later!)

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Terms and Stitches:

Ch – Chain

Slst – Slip stitch

Sc – Single Crochet

Inc – Increase. Work a regular sc increase

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease

BLO – Back Loops Only

Sk – Skip a stitch

Dc – Double crochet


Body Panel (make 2):

Row 1: Ch 4, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch (3 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Inc in first st, sc 1, inc in last st (5 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Inc, sc 3, inc (7 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in each st across (7 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Inc in first st, sc 6 (8 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1 to 5 for the second leg but do not tie off. Ch 1 and turn and continue to row 6 to join the legs:

Row 6: Sc 7, inc in last st, join first leg, inc in first st, sc 7 (18 sts), ch 1, turn.

Rows 7-11: Sc in each st across (18 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 12: Dec, sc 14, dec (16 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 13: Sc in each st across (16 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 14: Dec, sc 12, dec (14 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 15: Dec, sc 10, dec (12 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 16: Inc in first two sts, sc 8, inc in last two sts (16 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 17: Inc, sc 14, inc (18 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 18: Inc, sc 16, inc (20 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 19: Inc, sc 18, inc (22 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 20: Inc, sc 20, inc (24 sts), ch 1, turn.

Rows 21-24: Sc in each st across (24 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 25: Dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 26: Sc in each st across (22 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 27: Dec, sc 18, dec (20 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 28: Dec, sc 16, dec (18 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 29: Dec, sc 14, dec (16 sts), ch 1, turn.

Row 30: Dec two times, sc 8, dec two times (12 sts), ch 1, turn

Row 31: Dec two times, sc 4, dec two times (8 sts)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1 to 31 for the back panel.

Ears (make 2):

Row 1: Ch 2, work 5 sc into 2nd ch from hook (5 sts), pull tight, ch 2, turn

Row 2: 2dc into each st (10 sts).

Tie off, leaving a long tail for stitching onto the body.

Arms (make 2):

Rnd 1: Ch 2, work 4 sc into the 2nd ch from hook. Continue working in rounds.

Rnd 2: *Inc in first st, sc in next, repeat from * once more (6 sts)

Rnds 3-7: Sc in each st around (6 sts)

Tie off, leaving a long tail for stitching onto the body.

Move on to assembly below!


Step 1: Face

Insert 15mm safety eyes onto the front panel. You won’t be able to count rows/stitches to determine placement; instead, find the halfway point of the head and insert the eyes about a row or two below that. Be sure to leave room for a nose between the eyes. I recommend inserting the eyes but not attaching the washers yet. Wait until the nose is stitched on to ensure the eyes are where you want them before securing the eyes.

Stitch on the nose between the eyes using black yarn. Make a ‘V’ shape with the yarn. Fill it in by making more stitches in a ‘V’ shape and then crochet several horizontal stitches across the top of the ‘V’ to finish.

Step 2: Joining Panels

Since fur yarn is so forgiving and hides stitches, the ears and arms can be stitched onto the body after we’ve assembled the panels.

Make sure the front is facing you as you crochet around the outside.

Place the two body panels together. Starting in a stitch on the left side of the head, begin attaching the panels together by inserting your hook through both panels and single crocheting around the outside edge of the panels.

Crochet down the head and body, around each leg and up the other side of the body. Stuff the legs and body.

Continue crocheting up and around the head, topping up stuffing as you go. When satisfied with the stuffing, close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.

Step 3: Finish

Stitch the ears in place on either side of the head. Stitch the arms in place on either side of the body. Poke the yarn tail inside to hide.

You’re done! Feel free to add a ribbon, scarf, or bowtie as a finishing touch.

Happy crocheting!

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4 thoughts on “Classic Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern

  1. Hi! I love your patterns, thank you. for sharing them. On the teddy bear in particular I am wondering how you used such a small hook for the faux fur yarn? Is 3.75 mm accurate? I have put off starting this project because I’m not sure what hook to use. With worsted weight amigurumi I generally use a D hook (3-3.125 mm). Thanks!

    1. Hi! Yes, I use 3.75mm for this pattern. I generally have a very tight tension and this size works well for me, however, you are more than welcome to size up to a 4mm or 4.25mm if you prefer. Just keep in mind that your finished bear will be bigger!

  2. Hi! The Teddy Bear is so cute, but no lie, it’s turning out the size of an actual, real life bear :)! Any tips on how to reduce the size?

    1. Hrm, I think the only way would be to find a fur yarn that is lighter in weight than the Go For Faux. I know some fur yarns are worsted weight, rather than bulky or super bulky. Otherwise, you’d have to alter the pattern.

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