BB-8 Free Crochet Pattern

14

BB-8 Free Crochet Pattern

With the recent release of ‘Star Wars: The Last Jedi’ I couldn’t resist marking the occasion by starting (yet another) new project; BB-8, our brave little droid buddy! I haven’t seen the movie yet (no spoilers!) but I am itching to go since everyone I have heard from said it was absolutely awesome.

Although there are lots of wonderful amigurumi BB-8 patterns out there, most of them are for little kawaii versions, or bigger 3-D versions. What I had in mind was something similar to my other Ragdoll patterns that you can easily add to your decor in terms of a throw pillow, a cuddler, something to hang on a wall as a wall hanging, you get the idea! So, while a flat BB-8 may seem a little…counter-intuitive, there are lots of ways to make use of this pattern! Maybe the super brave among you could even use the pattern to incorporate into a crocheted sweater for some custom Star Wars swag! Although the finished item is 2-D, the colour-work gives the illusion that he is indeed round and 3-D. It’s pretty neat (if I do say so)!

My first draft of the pattern had BB-8 worked up all in one piece, such that there were only two panels; front and back. But after I finished the first panel, I wasn’t totally satisfied. I felt there should be a more noticeable differentiation between his body and his head (dome?), so I frogged it and drafted it a bit differently. In the final version, I decided to make his head and body as two separate pieces. This means that the number of body pieces has increased to four (plus four for the antennae). It also means the pattern is a little more fiddly to put together but I think it’s worth it.

Also, I decided to incorporate the black for the lenses right into the colour-work of the panels (because less pieces and less sewing!) and then I added safety eyes as the finishing touch. Admittedly, the black sections are not completely round, due to the nature of tapestry crochet colour-work. If this bugs you, feel free to do all the black stitches in white and simply crochet two little round pieces later and sew them on the front panel instead.

Okay, let’s get started! (Or Pin for later!)

Pin it

As usual, this pattern is made in the same style as our Ragdoll patterns; separate pieces worked in flat rows and then joined together to give them that unique 2-D look. Our intrepid droid has 8 separate pieces! This pattern incorporates the tapestry crochet technique as well and has a lot of colour-work involved.

The finished measurement is approximately 27cm/10.5″ from top to bottom.

I encourage you to read everything thoroughly before beginning, particularly if you don’t have a lot of experience with tapestry crochet.

Here’s what I used:

**If you’d prefer a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive, formatted, and ad-free PDF can be purchased HERE.**

Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:

Everything is worked in single crochet stitches, except for row 16 of the head where the stitches will be specified. So, in order to indicate the colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front of the stitch counts in any lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour letter instead. For example, “Wdec” means to work a sc decrease in White yarn. “W4, O1” means to work the next 4 sc in White and the next 1 sc in Orange, and so on.

Due to the colour-changes, you will have several skeins or balls of yarn attached to your project at once. You can also cut down on carrying your yarn by taking one skein of yarn and separating it into several smaller balls.

The bonus part of the colour-changes in an amigurumi is that you don’t have to worry about what the back of your panels look like! This is why I carry my yarn on the back instead of carrying it inside the stitch as you go. It prevents any colours from bleeding through where they shouldn’t. As long as you always carry your yarn on the back of your panel, you won’t have to weave in any ends and you’ll have a beautiful smooth front with clear lines and colours.

When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B. You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row when you need it.

*Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel!* When you’re working on odd-numbered rows, your right side will be facing you. When you’re working on even-numbered rows, the wrong side will be facing you. So, when you are working on a row where the wrong side of the panel is facing you, you will have to make a conscious effort to pull your yarn toward you to the wrong side of the panel when dropping your yarn during a colour-change. This is because it will naturally drop to the side furthest away from you if you don’t.

Colour legend:

W – White

G – Grey

O – Orange

B- Black

Stitches and Special Terms:

Ch – Chain

Sc – Single crochet

Inc – Increase. Work 2 sc in the same st.

Dec – Decrease. Work a regular sc decrease.

Hdc – Half-double crochet

Dc – Double Crochet

Front Body (make 1 panel):

The panels are worked from the bottom up.

*Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row*

Row 1: In white, ch 22, W6, G3, W2, O2, W6, O2 (21 sts)

Row 2: Oinc, W7, O3, W2, G3, W4, Winc (23 sts)

Row 3: Winc, W4, G3, W2, O3, W8, O1, Oinc (25 sts)

Row 4: Oinc, O1, W9, O4, W2, G3, W1, O1, W2, Winc (27 sts)

Row 5: Winc, W2, O3, W4, O4, W10, O2, Winc (29 sts)

Row 6: Winc, O2, W12, O5, W2, O3, W2, O1, Oinc (31 sts)

Row 7: Oinc, O13, W13, O3, Winc (33 sts)

Row 8: W1, O3, W17, O10, W2 (33 sts)

Row 9: Winc, W28, O3, Winc (35 sts)

Row 10: W1, O3, W7, O7, W17 (35 sts)

Row 11: Winc, W14, O11, W6, O2, Winc (37 sts)

Row 12: W1, O3, W5, O13, W15 (37 sts)

Row 13: O1, W13, O3, W3, O3, W3, O3, W5, O3 (37 sts)

Row 14: O3, W4, O3, W1, G2, W1, O3, W1, G2, W1, O3, W12, O1 (37 sts)

Row 15: O2, W10, O3, W1, G2, W3, O1, W1, G4, W1, O3, W4, O2 (37 sts)

Row 16: O2, W4, O3, W2, G4, W7, O3, W9, O3 (37 sts)

Row 17: W1, O3, W8, O5, W5, G3, W1, O5, W5, O1 (37 sts)

Row 18: W6, O6, G3, W4, O6, W8, O3, W1 (37 sts)

Row 19: W2, O3, W7, O5, W5, G2, W2, O5, W6 (37 sts)

Row 20: W6, O3, W5, G1, W7, O3, W7, O3, W2 (37 sts)

Row 21: W3, O3, W6, O3, W2, G2, W9, O3, W6 (37 sts)

Row 22: Wdec, W4, O3, W6, O1, G4, W2, O3, W6, O3, W1, Wdec (35 sts)

Row 23: W3, O3, W6, O3, W2, G2, O3, W4, O3, W6 (35 sts)

Row 24: Wdec, W5, O3, W3, O3, W3, O3, W7, O3, W1, Wdec (33 sts)

Row 25: W3, O2, W8, O13, W7 (33 sts)

Row 26: Odec, O1, W5, O11, W8, O3, W1, Wdec (31 sts)

Row 27: Wdec, O3, W10, O7, W6, O1, Odec (29 sts)

Row 28: Odec, O1, W22, O2, Odec (27 sts)

Row 29: Odec, O1, W21, O1, Odec (25 sts)

Row 30: Odec, O2, W19, Odec (23 sts)

Row 31: Wdec, W17, O2, Odec (21 sts)

Row 32: Odec twice, O2, W11, Wdec twice (17 sts)

Row 33: Wdec twice, W9, Odec twice (13 sts)

Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.

Front Head Panel (make 1):

Row 1: Starting in white, ch 20, sc across (19 sts)

Row 2: Winc, W17, Winc (21 sts)

Row 3: Ginc, G19, Ginc (23 sts)

Row 4: G23 (23 sts)

Row 5: O1, W1, O2, W1, B1, W9, O1, W1, O2, W1, O1, W1, O1 (23 sts)

Row 6: W10, B3, W3, B3, W4 (23 sts)

Row 7: W4, B3, W2, B5, W9 (23 sts)

Row 8: W8, B7, W2, B1, W5 (23 sts)

Row 9: W8, B7, W8 (23 sts)

Row 10: Wdec, W7, B5, W7, Wdec (21 sts)

Row 11: O7, W2, B3, W2, O7 (21 sts)

Row 12: Wdec, W17, Wdec (19 sts)

Row 13: Gdec, G15, Gdec (17 sts)

Row 14: Gdec, G13, Gdec (15 sts)

Row 15: Gdec, G1, W9, G1, Gdec (13 sts)

Row 16 is completed in all White.

Row 16: Dec, hdc 3, dc 3, hdc 3, dec (11 sts)

Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.

Back Body (make 1 panel) in White:

I decided to make the back panels all in white, however, if you would like your BB-8 to be reversible, feel free to make two of the front body panel and use one as the back instead.

Row 1: Ch 22, sc across (21 sts)

Row 2: Inc, sc 19, inc (23 sts)

Row 3: Inc, sc 21, inc (25 sts)

Row 4: Inc, sc 23, inc (27 sts)

Row 5: Inc, sc 25, inc (29 sts)

Row 6: Inc, sc 27, inc (31 sts)

Row 7: Inc, sc 29, inc (33 sts)

Row 8: Sc across (33 sts)

Row 9: Inc, sc 31, inc (35 sts)

Row 10: Sc across (35 sts)

Row 11: Inc, sc 33, inc (37 sts)

Rows 12-21: Sc across (37 sts)

Row 22: Dec, sc 33, dec (35 sts)

Row 23: Sc across (35 sts)

Row 24: Dec, sc 31, dec (33 sts)

Row 25: Sc across (33 sts)

Row 26: Dec, sc 29, dec (31 sts)

Row 27: Dec, sc 27, dec (29 sts)

Row 28: Dec, sc 25, dec (27 sts)

Row 29: Dec, sc 23, dec (25 sts)

Row 30: Dec, sc 21, dec (23 sts)

Row 31: Dec, sc 19, dec (21 sts)

Row 32: Dec twice, sc 13, dec twice (17 sts)

Row 33: Dec twice, sc 9, dec twice (13 sts)

Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.

Back Head Panel (make 1) in White:

Row 1: Ch 20, sc across (19 sts)

Row 2: Inc, sc 17, inc (21 sts)

Row 3: Inc, sc 19, inc (23 sts)

Rows 4-9: Sc across (23 sts)

Row 10: Dec, sc 19, dec (21 sts)

Row 11: Sc across (21 sts)

Row 12: Dec, sc 17, dec (19 sts)

Row 13: Dec, sc 15, dec (17 sts)

Row 14: Dec, sc 13, dec (15 sts)

Row 15: Dec, sc 11, dec (13 sts)

Row 16: Dec, hdc 3, dc 3, hdc 3, dec (11 sts)

Tie off. Put aside for assembly later.

Short Antenna (make 2 panels) in White:

Row 1: Ch 2, sc 1 (1 st)

Rows 2-6: Sc 1 (1 st)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-6 for second panel. Place both panels together, ch 1 and sc around the entire piece. [Sc 3] in each end. Slst to first st. Tie off.

Long Antenna (make 2 panels):

Row 1: Starting in black, ch 2, sc 1 (1 st)

Switch to white.

Rows 2-11: Sc 1 (1 st)

Switch to black.

Row 12: Sc 1 (1 st)

Tie off. Repeat rows 1-12 for second panel. Place both panels together, ch 1 and sc around the entire piece. Switch colours where appropriate. [Sc 3] in each end. Slst to first st. Tie off.

Move on to assembly below!

Assembly:

Step 1: Body

Here are all the pieces you now have for assembly:

First we will assemble the body panels, the two pieces shown in the second photo above.

Place the two body panels together, matching up all sides.

**Make sure the front of your droid is facing you as you crochet around the outside.**

Start at any stitch and begin attaching the panels together by chaining one and single crocheting around the outside of the panels.

As you crochet along the outside, you will need to switch colours where appropriate. When switching colours, insert your hook into the last stitch of Colour A. Pull up a loop in Colour A. Then yarn over in Colour B to complete the stitch. Continue with Colour B until you need to switch again.

When you’ve crocheted about two-thirds of the way around, stuff the body. Continue crocheting around. Top up stuffing as you go. Close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.

Step 2: Optical Lens

First we need to attach BB-8’s “optical lens” to the front panel.

To give the appearance of a lens, I simply inserted a 12mm safety eye into the bigger black area (in the centre of the dome) for the big lens, and a 9mm safety eye into the smaller black area for the little lens.

Step 3: Head and Antennae

Cut off two lengths of white yarn about 30cm/15″ long. Set these aside for now.

Place the two head panels together, matching up all sides.

**Make sure the front of your droid is facing you as you crochet around the outside.**

BB-8 panels

Starting on the left side of the head, begin attaching the panels together by chaining one and single crocheting around the outside of the panels.

As you crochet along the outside, you will need to switch colours where appropriate. When switching colours, insert your hook into the last stitch of Colour A. Pull up a loop in Colour A. Then yarn over in Colour B to complete the stitch. Continue with Colour B until you need to switch again.

Stop before you get to the bottom of the head. Pull up a long loop and leave this for now.

With a length of white yarn that you set aside earlier, place the body between the panels of the head and attach by sewing through all three pieces; the back head panel, the body, and the front head panel. When you’ve sewn across the bottom of the head, tie the yarn tails in a knot inside the panels of the head to secure.

Continue crocheting around. When you get to the bottom of the head, simply crochet in the stitches of the front panel only, since this portion is already sewn shut.

Stop when you get to the top of the head. Stuff the head.

Now we will attach the antennae. With a length of white yarn you set aside earlier, sew the long antenna between the panels, and then the short antenna. The short antenna should be lined up with the middle of the head.

You should now have a small opening in the head, to the left of the antennae. Top up stuffing.

When you’re satisfied, continue crocheting around. Remember, when you get to the antennae, crochet in the stitches of the front panel only, since this part is already sewn shut. Close with a slst to first st. Tie off. With your tapestry needle, poke the yarn tail back inside the piece.

That’s it! You’re done! May the force be with you, friends!

 

Keep in touch on the Spin a Yarn Crochet Facebook Page and feel free to post and share pictures of your finished items and/or links to your shops! Be sure to also follow us on Instagram and hashtag your creations using #spinayarncrochet!

The information and photos in this post are the sole copyrighted property of Spin a Yarn Crochet. You may not copy and paste or reproduce any part of the information contained herein electronically, verbally, written or otherwise, including translations.

You may make and sell products from our patterns but we ask that you please link back to this post.

This post may contain affiliate links, which means Spin a Yarn Crochet may receive some compensation if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. Clicking these links won’t cost you anything, but it will help us keep this site up and running and keep the free content coming! Thank you for your support!

Related Posts

8 thoughts on “BB-8 Free Crochet Pattern

  1. I have been looking for patterns for OWLS and have seen many but none that are artistic as your work is. I was wondering if you have an OWL in your vast library of patterns that you have created? I am confident that it would be beautiful and enjoyable to make.
    Thank you for all the patterns you have given to the public, myself included! Have a wonderful holiday and many more hours of creation!

  2. I LOVE it. Thank you for adding Star Wars to your growing library!!! Would LOVE for you to give the artic foxes in the new Star Wars a go. 💝😁. Blessings and Merry Christmas!!

  3. You should make more Star Wars patterns, my family are huge fans! Maybe a Rey or Poe? Thanks for the cute one and keep up the awesome work!

    1. How fun! I’d love to see pics! Feel free to share some over on the Facebook page. 🙂

      Yes, I’ve been thinking about starting a collection and doing more Star Wars characters!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *